It did not happen during my almost 40 years as a professional electronics designer but I managed to destroy
a measuring instruments output of a signal generator.
I accidentally touched the output of my only a few months old function/waveform generator, the Siglent SDG810, with a 24V dc supply voltage.
Asked the manufacturer if it is possible to repair this but their response was that the total costs would exceed the cost of the purchase of a new one.
After this had happened I realized that I did not have noticed that the two outputs of that Siglent generator are not having any overload protection at all.
So, yes, not very professional that I did not noticed this before purchasing the generator. The lack of overload protection is not even mentioned in their specs of the generator,
but only at the bottom of the front panel of the generator. So, again, yes I am the only one who is to blame.
Now, my question to this Forum is: Does anybody had this experience before and if so, is it possible to do the repairing myself?
a measuring instruments output of a signal generator.
I accidentally touched the output of my only a few months old function/waveform generator, the Siglent SDG810, with a 24V dc supply voltage.
Asked the manufacturer if it is possible to repair this but their response was that the total costs would exceed the cost of the purchase of a new one.
After this had happened I realized that I did not have noticed that the two outputs of that Siglent generator are not having any overload protection at all.
So, yes, not very professional that I did not noticed this before purchasing the generator. The lack of overload protection is not even mentioned in their specs of the generator,
but only at the bottom of the front panel of the generator. So, again, yes I am the only one who is to blame.
Now, my question to this Forum is: Does anybody had this experience before and if so, is it possible to do the repairing myself?
Same thing happened to me with sdg1062x. Mine went to immediate over-voltage protection when I turned on the output, I think this doesn't apply to you because SDG810 doesn't have output protection?
In my cases it was shorted LMH6702 opamp.
It is relatively easy to open the unit for inspection, but most likely you will damage a warranty sticker.
This might help:
Help fixing Siglent SDG805 (Fixed) - Page 1
EEVBlog #805 - Siglent SDG2122X Arb Generator Teardown - Page 1
In my cases it was shorted LMH6702 opamp.
It is relatively easy to open the unit for inspection, but most likely you will damage a warranty sticker.
This might help:
Help fixing Siglent SDG805 (Fixed) - Page 1
EEVBlog #805 - Siglent SDG2122X Arb Generator Teardown - Page 1
Last edited:
"JoeAlders how is it going? Keep us updated!"
Sorry to respond so late but I have a little practical problem here : when trying to open up the case of that generator I, apart from breaking that so called "Guarantee Seal" (which of course I did. I have nothing to loose
) I could not handle these screws to open the case because it seems that some special equipment is needed to do the (unscrew)job.
No, those screws are not removed by using a torx screw driver or any other type. It is clear that Siglent does not want you to open that case simply by using any standard screw driver.........
So I am searching what I have to do to get this job done.
Keep you informed.
Sorry to respond so late but I have a little practical problem here : when trying to open up the case of that generator I, apart from breaking that so called "Guarantee Seal" (which of course I did. I have nothing to loose
) I could not handle these screws to open the case because it seems that some special equipment is needed to do the (unscrew)job.No, those screws are not removed by using a torx screw driver or any other type. It is clear that Siglent does not want you to open that case simply by using any standard screw driver.........
So I am searching what I have to do to get this job done.
Keep you informed.
This is Siglents SDG series sevice manual
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw0NjeGTN2TW_9mMYPuG2Iah
It states that nothing more than PH2 philips head screw driver is needed to dissasemble the unit.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw0NjeGTN2TW_9mMYPuG2Iah
It states that nothing more than PH2 philips head screw driver is needed to dissasemble the unit.
You want a left-hand twist drill for that. That is the true universal driver. This will just make everything look awful.
Done it!!
Just by using one of the bits of my Black&Decker screwdriver bit set (that bit simply has the number 10)
I managed to remove those stupid screws and could open the case.
It revealed a PCB mostly populated with smd parts.
The next step is to detach that pcb and see what I can do.
Keep you informed........
Just by using one of the bits of my Black&Decker screwdriver bit set (that bit simply has the number 10)
I managed to remove those stupid screws and could open the case.
It revealed a PCB mostly populated with smd parts.
The next step is to detach that pcb and see what I can do.
Keep you informed........
Update:
The whole PCB is populated with SMD components.
As a retired electronics designer I do not have any tools to
de-solder or whatever to get "into" this PCB with
whatever measuring instrument. It is simply impossible for me to do this.
As I can remember in out lab, we had specialized tools to handle those SMD pcb's.
I think this is the end of the story.......
No more Siglent generators for me.......
The whole PCB is populated with SMD components.
As a retired electronics designer I do not have any tools to
de-solder or whatever to get "into" this PCB with
whatever measuring instrument. It is simply impossible for me to do this.
As I can remember in out lab, we had specialized tools to handle those SMD pcb's.
I think this is the end of the story.......
No more Siglent generators for me.......
Hi Joe,
I'm disappointed for you to have this outcome and I keep trying to imagine a way to recover.
Are you to able to poke around on the PCB while the instrument is "live" and pinpoint the failed components? Perhaps having the defective parts identified would make repair seem less daunting.
Numerous times, a repair project has given me an excuse to acquire a new tool. Might this rational work for you?
I also observe SMD is firmly established technology and that a lot of your fellow DIYers have successfully removed and replaced surface mount devices with only hand tools and mild magnification. I'm sure many members would offer advice if you're feeling adventerous.
Good luck!
Regards,
Steve
I'm disappointed for you to have this outcome and I keep trying to imagine a way to recover.
Are you to able to poke around on the PCB while the instrument is "live" and pinpoint the failed components? Perhaps having the defective parts identified would make repair seem less daunting.
Numerous times, a repair project has given me an excuse to acquire a new tool. Might this rational work for you?
I also observe SMD is firmly established technology and that a lot of your fellow DIYers have successfully removed and replaced surface mount devices with only hand tools and mild magnification. I'm sure many members would offer advice if you're feeling adventerous.
Good luck!
Regards,
Steve
Desoldering SMD parts is trivial with help of low-melting-temperature metals. Professionals use the rather expensive ChipQuick wires.
The dirt cheap Wood's metal Wood's metal (Bismuth, Lead, Tin, Cadmium alloy) 75 g. Wood Woods alloy | eBay works very well, it is just a bit nasty for environment (cadmium). It is good to dispose of the remains properly, not throwing them to trashbin.
I melt the pebbles in a medical syringe in boiling water (melting point around 70°C) and inject the metal into a plastic drinking straw to cast a "wire". Unsoldering any SMD is trivial with a bit of the metal and good solder paste as the metal mixes with the original solder onboard and stays liquid for several seconds.
The dirt cheap Wood's metal Wood's metal (Bismuth, Lead, Tin, Cadmium alloy) 75 g. Wood Woods alloy | eBay works very well, it is just a bit nasty for environment (cadmium). It is good to dispose of the remains properly, not throwing them to trashbin.
I melt the pebbles in a medical syringe in boiling water (melting point around 70°C) and inject the metal into a plastic drinking straw to cast a "wire". Unsoldering any SMD is trivial with a bit of the metal and good solder paste as the metal mixes with the original solder onboard and stays liquid for several seconds.
It doesn't take any special tools for most SMD parts.
Passive parts (resistors, capacitors, inductors) or diodes are trivial:
Remove: HowTo: Solder by hand - Removing simple SMD parts | JRE’s Project Blog
Install: HowTo: Solder by hand - Soldering simple SMD parts | JRE’s Project Blog
ICs up to maybe 24 pins (small outline IC, like DIP only smaller) aren't much more difficult:
Remove: HowTo: Solder by hand - Remove SMD ICs | JRE’s Project Blog
Install: HowTo: Solder by hand - Solder SMD ICs | JRE’s Project Blog
You obviously can't remove and install BGA parts that way, or parts with pads under the chip, but you can handle a lot of stuff with nothing more than a regular soldering iron and a little finesse.
You can install QFP and PLCC and similar with just a regular iron, though it will take a hot air gun to remove them.
I've also done QFN parts by hand, as long as they don't have a pad underneath.
Thank you Members for all your good suggestions. Much appreciating this!
What I first want to do is try to detach that main board and try to figure out where the I blew up the circuit while the generator is still powered on.
But to be able to do some sensible work I do need at least a circuit diagram.
At last I managed to download a service manual from type SGD1000 to get SOME idea what I can expect when trying to figure things out.
Will take a lot of free time and I do not know if I want to do this and simply buy another generator from another manufacturer of course.
As I stated before, no more siglent things for me.
What I first want to do is try to detach that main board and try to figure out where the I blew up the circuit while the generator is still powered on.
But to be able to do some sensible work I do need at least a circuit diagram.
At last I managed to download a service manual from type SGD1000 to get SOME idea what I can expect when trying to figure things out.
Will take a lot of free time and I do not know if I want to do this and simply buy another generator from another manufacturer of course.
As I stated before, no more siglent things for me.
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