Hi All,
I'm doing a renovation upgrade project on my UPL analyzer.
I thought to list down all the possible upgrades one can do for his/her analyzer.
Then maybe i can also learn some new stuff from you guys.
Here is the link where i'm storing all my information (Software, DOS, Service Manuals, Installation disks, Many Photos) regarding my analyzer. Feel free to look around.
R&S UPL Audio Analyzer - Google Drive
See you soon.
Kind Regards,
Bart
I'm doing a renovation upgrade project on my UPL analyzer.
I thought to list down all the possible upgrades one can do for his/her analyzer.
Then maybe i can also learn some new stuff from you guys.
Here is the link where i'm storing all my information (Software, DOS, Service Manuals, Installation disks, Many Photos) regarding my analyzer. Feel free to look around.
R&S UPL Audio Analyzer - Google Drive
See you soon.
Kind Regards,
Bart
Last edited:
The first upgrade i want to show is the USB Floppy Emulator.
3.5" 1.44MB USB Floppy Drive Emulator for YAMAHA KORG keyboard GOTEK grey-white | eBay
This device is a in place replacement to a floppy drive. The BIOS and Analyzer see it as a normal floppy drive and you can do everything you want with it as before.
With the help of special software (see the link in my first post) you can format an USB stick into 100 or 999 floppy's which can then be selected on the device via the 2 buttons.
You still have the limitation of 1.4MB but at least you can transfer files fastes than before.
GOTEK is the brand i would recommend. Although many versions exists.
IMG_1968.HEIC - Google Drive
3.5" 1.44MB USB Floppy Drive Emulator for YAMAHA KORG keyboard GOTEK grey-white | eBay
This device is a in place replacement to a floppy drive. The BIOS and Analyzer see it as a normal floppy drive and you can do everything you want with it as before.
With the help of special software (see the link in my first post) you can format an USB stick into 100 or 999 floppy's which can then be selected on the device via the 2 buttons.
You still have the limitation of 1.4MB but at least you can transfer files fastes than before.
GOTEK is the brand i would recommend. Although many versions exists.
IMG_1968.HEIC - Google Drive
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The second upgrade is the LCD backlight.
When i first received my unit in 2013 the backlight was broken.
Although attemping to repair it had crossed my mind I eventually replaced it with a LEDstrip.
The input voltage for the DC/AC convertor for the backlight is a handy 12V.
Removing the old backlight tube is relatively easy and it leaves nice room to put a ledstip inside. If you use some diffusing plastic it's hard to see the individual leds from up close.
I'll try to link some more pictures of the inside once I have my unit open sometime.
IMG_1969.HEIC - Google Drive
When i first received my unit in 2013 the backlight was broken.
Although attemping to repair it had crossed my mind I eventually replaced it with a LEDstrip.
The input voltage for the DC/AC convertor for the backlight is a handy 12V.
Removing the old backlight tube is relatively easy and it leaves nice room to put a ledstip inside. If you use some diffusing plastic it's hard to see the individual leds from up close.
I'll try to link some more pictures of the inside once I have my unit open sometime.
IMG_1969.HEIC - Google Drive
Standard there is no CF card inside that motherboard. In such a unit i've always seen IDE drives as the primary boot device.
I haven't been able to get the CF card interface to work as the primary boot device.
I spend several hours in the BIOS and ultimately decided to spend my time on other items since CF to IDE adapters are readily available.
DOS does recognize it and you can partition it as a spare drive. I might put one in to make the C-drive backup more simple but on the other hand i can also pull out the primary drive and do the same so I see no real benefit.
I haven't been able to get the CF card interface to work as the primary boot device.
I spend several hours in the BIOS and ultimately decided to spend my time on other items since CF to IDE adapters are readily available.
DOS does recognize it and you can partition it as a spare drive. I might put one in to make the C-drive backup more simple but on the other hand i can also pull out the primary drive and do the same so I see no real benefit.
LCD Backlight
When I received the unit the backlight was broken. The circuitry of R&S consists of an DC/AC converter screwed on the back of the screen assembly.
The backlight itself consists of 2 fluorescent bulbes at the top and bottom.
I'M not a huge fan of this and the parts are very hard to get. Since 12V is supplied to the DC/AC converter the easy way out was LEDSTRIPS.
First i cut 2 strips of and used heavy duty double sided tape. I also solderded some wires to it and isolated the beginning and end to avoid shorts.
(From my first attempt i noticed the tape on the strips is very weak and tends to come loose from the strip itself. I completely removed the old tape with IPA)
IMG_1985.HEIC - Google Drive
Second I cut 2 pieces of white plastic as a diffuser. Otherwise you might be able to see the individual leds in the LCD screen afterwards.
IMG_1987.HEIC - Google Drive
The old tubes are mounted in a metal bracket. I bend these brackets open so i would be able to stick the led strip and have it pointed somewhat to the LCD screen.
I added the diffuser and mounted everything. To avoid stray light i added some kapton tape to keep eveything nice together. The wires were also soldered to the cable.
IMG_1989.HEIC - Google Drive
Check out the link in the first post for more pictures.
The end result is stunning. The screen is much brighter as before and more energy efficient.
Here is the final assembly.
IMG_1990.HEIC - Google Drive
IMG_1991.HEIC - Google Drive
And switched on:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VBEOTZfhU0Wv8ELh_BzDa9EPz5RipICS
When I received the unit the backlight was broken. The circuitry of R&S consists of an DC/AC converter screwed on the back of the screen assembly.
The backlight itself consists of 2 fluorescent bulbes at the top and bottom.
I'M not a huge fan of this and the parts are very hard to get. Since 12V is supplied to the DC/AC converter the easy way out was LEDSTRIPS.
First i cut 2 strips of and used heavy duty double sided tape. I also solderded some wires to it and isolated the beginning and end to avoid shorts.
(From my first attempt i noticed the tape on the strips is very weak and tends to come loose from the strip itself. I completely removed the old tape with IPA)
IMG_1985.HEIC - Google Drive
Second I cut 2 pieces of white plastic as a diffuser. Otherwise you might be able to see the individual leds in the LCD screen afterwards.
IMG_1987.HEIC - Google Drive
The old tubes are mounted in a metal bracket. I bend these brackets open so i would be able to stick the led strip and have it pointed somewhat to the LCD screen.
I added the diffuser and mounted everything. To avoid stray light i added some kapton tape to keep eveything nice together. The wires were also soldered to the cable.
IMG_1989.HEIC - Google Drive
Check out the link in the first post for more pictures.
The end result is stunning. The screen is much brighter as before and more energy efficient.
Here is the final assembly.
IMG_1990.HEIC - Google Drive
IMG_1991.HEIC - Google Drive
And switched on:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VBEOTZfhU0Wv8ELh_BzDa9EPz5RipICS
KeyBoard Repair (Part 1)
When I first got the unit the buttons were not working. During an internal service a technician pulled on the front assembly to hard and destroyed the flex ribbon cable coming from the flex button pcb.
This meant that the whole flex PCB is non servicable and can be thrown away.
I found some prices of a replacement and that's up to or more than 500euro.
I personally didn't like the feeling of these buttons. They always felt squishy and not that robust.
I set out to design a custom PCB for this witch tactile SMD buttons. Inside the service manual there are no schematics for the keyboard PCB so i had to trace everything out by hand. In the end I got a nice schematic to work further on.
UPL_KeyBoard.pdf - Google Drive
My first version was in 2013. Back then services like JLCPCB or PCBWAY were not available and i had to etch my own board. However due to the large size i had to split up my board in 2 pieces. (Mistake number 1).
Also due to my own limits I had to stick with 1 sided board and make my vias via wire. This resulted in a too thick PCB in some areas. (Mistake number 2).
This all resulted in a functioning PCB but sometimes things were shorted, buttons not working and it took me some years and some corona virus to get round to reworking it properly.
IMG_1980.HEIC - Google Drive
IMG_1977.HEIC - Google Drive
Another item which cannot be forgotten is the interface to the digital Board.
R&S uses a flex PCB connector. After removal of this connector i was happy to see they were using a standard header distance of 2.54mm.
I solderd standard headers on this board to be able to interface it later.
The reason i used standard headers is because R&S has offset the 2nd row of pins. Unable to find a matching connector I made my own, interfacing on standard headers.
Kopie van IMG_1954.HEIC - Google Drive
More in part 2
When I first got the unit the buttons were not working. During an internal service a technician pulled on the front assembly to hard and destroyed the flex ribbon cable coming from the flex button pcb.
This meant that the whole flex PCB is non servicable and can be thrown away.
I found some prices of a replacement and that's up to or more than 500euro.
I personally didn't like the feeling of these buttons. They always felt squishy and not that robust.
I set out to design a custom PCB for this witch tactile SMD buttons. Inside the service manual there are no schematics for the keyboard PCB so i had to trace everything out by hand. In the end I got a nice schematic to work further on.
UPL_KeyBoard.pdf - Google Drive
My first version was in 2013. Back then services like JLCPCB or PCBWAY were not available and i had to etch my own board. However due to the large size i had to split up my board in 2 pieces. (Mistake number 1).
Also due to my own limits I had to stick with 1 sided board and make my vias via wire. This resulted in a too thick PCB in some areas. (Mistake number 2).
This all resulted in a functioning PCB but sometimes things were shorted, buttons not working and it took me some years and some corona virus to get round to reworking it properly.
IMG_1980.HEIC - Google Drive
IMG_1977.HEIC - Google Drive
Another item which cannot be forgotten is the interface to the digital Board.
R&S uses a flex PCB connector. After removal of this connector i was happy to see they were using a standard header distance of 2.54mm.
I solderd standard headers on this board to be able to interface it later.
The reason i used standard headers is because R&S has offset the 2nd row of pins. Unable to find a matching connector I made my own, interfacing on standard headers.
Kopie van IMG_1954.HEIC - Google Drive
More in part 2
Last edited:
KeyBoard Repair (Part 2)
With suppliers like JLCPCB making PCB's is super easy.
Being stuck at home during the Corona Virus i decided to revisit this PCB and make it right like it should be.
Using the same tactile switches, leds and harting connector i designed a new PCB.
IMG_1972.HEIC - Google Drive
IMG_1973.HEIC - Google Drive
I started with soldering all the components. Working on a nice finished PCB always has something satisfying.
IMG_1992.HEIC - Google Drive
IMG_1994.HEIC - Google Drive
The interface cable itself is quite simpy. On the side of the custom PCB it holds a industry standard harting double row connector of 26 pins although you really need 25 (pin26 is not connected).
I used a flat ribbon cable of 25 since that was what i had lying aroung.
To come back to the alterating row pattern pins on the digital board. I used female headers and glued them together with CA (super) glue.
IMG_1957.HEIC - Google Drive
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Vhpb3y0ZnGFtocsCV9Por7Ce4SnvycMy
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gnQygIHdCZywu8M0O0nZEOtkJ9PmkTSc
The pin numbering used on the digital board uses also an alternating pattern.
with evens on 1 side and odds on the other. The remaining pins of this connector are not used.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Pho6SXLMP_6PdIiIHIYC3a80L-s-jrzr
With all that done we can test everything out. I added a usefull silkscreen on my PCB so I know what to press.
With everything working we can rebuild everything.
More in Part 3
With suppliers like JLCPCB making PCB's is super easy.
Being stuck at home during the Corona Virus i decided to revisit this PCB and make it right like it should be.
Using the same tactile switches, leds and harting connector i designed a new PCB.
IMG_1972.HEIC - Google Drive
IMG_1973.HEIC - Google Drive
I started with soldering all the components. Working on a nice finished PCB always has something satisfying.
IMG_1992.HEIC - Google Drive
IMG_1994.HEIC - Google Drive
The interface cable itself is quite simpy. On the side of the custom PCB it holds a industry standard harting double row connector of 26 pins although you really need 25 (pin26 is not connected).
I used a flat ribbon cable of 25 since that was what i had lying aroung.
To come back to the alterating row pattern pins on the digital board. I used female headers and glued them together with CA (super) glue.
IMG_1957.HEIC - Google Drive
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Vhpb3y0ZnGFtocsCV9Por7Ce4SnvycMy
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gnQygIHdCZywu8M0O0nZEOtkJ9PmkTSc
The pin numbering used on the digital board uses also an alternating pattern.
with evens on 1 side and odds on the other. The remaining pins of this connector are not used.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Pho6SXLMP_6PdIiIHIYC3a80L-s-jrzr
With all that done we can test everything out. I added a usefull silkscreen on my PCB so I know what to press.
With everything working we can rebuild everything.
More in Part 3
KeyBoard Repair (Part 3, Final)
To start rebuilding the front of the anlyzer we start with the metal frame.
1 thing i forgot to mention is that the old flex PCB was glued on a metal subframe. I designed the PCB to replace both as the thickness was very similar.
On the metal frame we place our rubber buttons pads. On that we can start mounting the PCB with the existing plastic standoffs.
IMG_1995.HEIC - Google Drive
As the XLRs input and outputs are also essential to the PCB mounting they can be added.
IMG_1996.HEIC - Google Drive
Next up is the display assembly. Here comes the 1st and happily only hickup in this upgrade.
I moved my harting connector more towards the screen to be able to easy access the screws. By doing this i touched the back plate of the LCD.
With a dremel a small notch can be made to allow the backplate and harting connector to live long and happy together.
Since the VIA's on the PCB can be shorted out with metal i added some kapton tape where the metal bracked is resting on the PCB.
IMG_1998.HEIC - Google Drive
Using the existing plastic standoffs the LCD screen can be mounted back.
Throughout the process i kept checking if i could press all the buttons and nothing special was going on.
IMG_1999.HEIC - Google Drive
After that the assembly is done and can go back to the analyzer. I did a final check before mouting the final screws and frontplate.
IMG_2002.HEIC - Google Drive
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VBEOTZfhU0Wv8ELh_BzDa9EPz5RipICS
The analyzer has really moved up on a lot of levels. The screen is very bright now and every time you press a button you get a satisfying tactile feedback.
Cheers Bart
To start rebuilding the front of the anlyzer we start with the metal frame.
1 thing i forgot to mention is that the old flex PCB was glued on a metal subframe. I designed the PCB to replace both as the thickness was very similar.
On the metal frame we place our rubber buttons pads. On that we can start mounting the PCB with the existing plastic standoffs.
IMG_1995.HEIC - Google Drive
As the XLRs input and outputs are also essential to the PCB mounting they can be added.
IMG_1996.HEIC - Google Drive
Next up is the display assembly. Here comes the 1st and happily only hickup in this upgrade.
I moved my harting connector more towards the screen to be able to easy access the screws. By doing this i touched the back plate of the LCD.
With a dremel a small notch can be made to allow the backplate and harting connector to live long and happy together.
Since the VIA's on the PCB can be shorted out with metal i added some kapton tape where the metal bracked is resting on the PCB.
IMG_1998.HEIC - Google Drive
Using the existing plastic standoffs the LCD screen can be mounted back.
Throughout the process i kept checking if i could press all the buttons and nothing special was going on.
IMG_1999.HEIC - Google Drive
After that the assembly is done and can go back to the analyzer. I did a final check before mouting the final screws and frontplate.
IMG_2002.HEIC - Google Drive
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VBEOTZfhU0Wv8ELh_BzDa9EPz5RipICS
The analyzer has really moved up on a lot of levels. The screen is very bright now and every time you press a button you get a satisfying tactile feedback.
Cheers Bart
Last edited:
I had to order 5 PCB's as minimum qty. I'll keep 1 as spare. This means I have 3 left if people are interested in buying one. Send me a PM.
Cheers Bart
BIOS Settings
I have a newer type motherboard installed on my UPL. This has a CF adapter which does not have a card standard (as far as I have seen).
In order to get a more lean setup i wanted to get the UPL to use the CF card as the primary device and install everything on that. That would tidy things up.
Then i still have the IDE connector free to put a backup drive or something.
During my efforts the bios got reset losing all my settings. Therefor i decided to get everything back in order and take some pictures of all the bios pages as i cursed quite a bit along the way...
you can find them here:
BIOS Settings - Google Drive
I also got a bit further in my quest. I got to the DOS installation screens and was able to format my CF card but didn't wanted to continue due to the fact that card partition is not compatible (whatever that means).
Anyway i've ordered some other CF cards and an IDE to CF adapter (as plan B)
Once they arrive i'll redo my tests to see if a different more reputable brand card (Sandisk compared to 'Platinum') makes a difference
Bye!
I have a newer type motherboard installed on my UPL. This has a CF adapter which does not have a card standard (as far as I have seen).
In order to get a more lean setup i wanted to get the UPL to use the CF card as the primary device and install everything on that. That would tidy things up.
Then i still have the IDE connector free to put a backup drive or something.
During my efforts the bios got reset losing all my settings. Therefor i decided to get everything back in order and take some pictures of all the bios pages as i cursed quite a bit along the way...
you can find them here:
BIOS Settings - Google Drive
I also got a bit further in my quest. I got to the DOS installation screens and was able to format my CF card but didn't wanted to continue due to the fact that card partition is not compatible (whatever that means).
Anyway i've ordered some other CF cards and an IDE to CF adapter (as plan B)
Once they arrive i'll redo my tests to see if a different more reputable brand card (Sandisk compared to 'Platinum') makes a difference
Bye!
> DOS installation .... card partition is not compatible
What DOS? How big card?
Older DOS (even unto 6.x) had limits that seem tiny today. First thought is to make a small partition-- which may be more than this machine can ever need. Another is to stick it in a linux box and partition a few dozen Megs, then boot DOS and SYS it. (Keep your head straight!! Don't do as I have done and SYS a production volume.)
What DOS? How big card?
Older DOS (even unto 6.x) had limits that seem tiny today. First thought is to make a small partition-- which may be more than this machine can ever need. Another is to stick it in a linux box and partition a few dozen Megs, then boot DOS and SYS it. (Keep your head straight!! Don't do as I have done and SYS a production volume.)