Here is a pic of my favorite bender pliers,
complete with box joint that never gets
wobbly and keep the jaws centered.
You vary the radius by where you grip
the wire to be bent. I like it for resistors
or other parts with leads that bends critical.
The "Three tools on Napkin" are great vintage tools.
The adjustable wrench top, the Merit fence tool
wrench to the right. And then the middle tool,
I'm not sure what this tool actually is?
It looks to hole punch centered for various sheet metal
thicknesses. Or maybe a nail removal tool from horse shoes.
Finally, I've tried to document the first instance of CyberSex,
before the term was even defined.
Cheers,
complete with box joint that never gets
wobbly and keep the jaws centered.
You vary the radius by where you grip
the wire to be bent. I like it for resistors
or other parts with leads that bends critical.
The "Three tools on Napkin" are great vintage tools.
The adjustable wrench top, the Merit fence tool
wrench to the right. And then the middle tool,
I'm not sure what this tool actually is?
It looks to hole punch centered for various sheet metal
thicknesses. Or maybe a nail removal tool from horse shoes.
Finally, I've tried to document the first instance of CyberSex,
before the term was even defined.
Cheers,
Attachments
For parts forming for through hole this has been the go to for 40+ years: Resistor Lead Bending Tool - TOL-13114 - SparkFun Electronics
The tools look like Xcelite or Diamond tool. Both excellent.
The tools look like Xcelite or Diamond tool. Both excellent.
1Audio,
I've seen those just wondering if they are radiused where you bend the
lead? I've gotten accustomed to mine and have never had issues with it.
Though I should have one of those red plastic bending tools on the bench,
as it would save time once you have your lead spacing for through hole.
Cheers,
They are radiused and in .1" increments. I have 2 sizes of the red ones and a green one that is only 1/4W parts but a larger range.
On my bench is an array of tools, below. Its overkill but will handle many things.
The pliers/cutter are from ETM. They were surplused out of Lockheed in the late 1980s. no longer made, the company now makes dental tools and they are $$$. The tray has a lot of different tweezers. The white think is a Clauss No-Nik, possibly the best wirewrap wire stripper ever. The electric screwdriver is essential i think and Broppe are the best I have found. They can be had from eBay for a very reasonable price. Metcal soldering iron and desoldering tool. The gold cylinder is a precista solder sucker. before the Metcal it was the best tool for removing solder. It was the only one adequate to multilayer PCB's or ground planes. Again, not made for years. There are more specialized tools, some used only once, but this is typical if you do this stuff a lot.
Ask away if you have any questions.
On my bench is an array of tools, below. Its overkill but will handle many things.
The pliers/cutter are from ETM. They were surplused out of Lockheed in the late 1980s. no longer made, the company now makes dental tools and they are $$$. The tray has a lot of different tweezers. The white think is a Clauss No-Nik, possibly the best wirewrap wire stripper ever. The electric screwdriver is essential i think and Broppe are the best I have found. They can be had from eBay for a very reasonable price. Metcal soldering iron and desoldering tool. The gold cylinder is a precista solder sucker. before the Metcal it was the best tool for removing solder. It was the only one adequate to multilayer PCB's or ground planes. Again, not made for years. There are more specialized tools, some used only once, but this is typical if you do this stuff a lot.
Ask away if you have any questions.
Attachments
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LOL that's a fairly large collection, but as you say, when you do it for a long time, do one get more tools, also "one time usage". Thank you for making so much work, just to reply to my question!! 
The white tool you write about to wire stripping, is that the one in the left most lower corner?
Do you repair cobber traces, what do you use for that?
The white tool you write about to wire stripping, is that the one in the left most lower corner?
Do you repair cobber traces, what do you use for that?
Yes it may be a great tool to own, the strain reliefs (thanks for the right word can be a nightmare to remove or install. I do prefer the IEC because it's really flexible, you can chose length, socket to any country, you do not have to fight with the cord while transporting the unit and so on
can be a nightmare to remove or install. I do prefer the IEC because it's really flexible, you can chose length, socket to any country, you do not have to fight with the cord while transporting the unit and so onA chain tool, to press out the pins to "break" the chain, and press back pins to connect chains.
Best wishes
David
That is a tool to open chains sir. Like the ones on bicycles.
I see two people on the globe pushed "enter" on the same time
Thanks David
Danke jean-paul
Heck, I had that sitting around for the longest time no knowing what kind of tool
that is. Holy Cow, I need to get a new bike chain as the old one broke and the
good folks at the bike shops want something like $135USD for chain installation
plus the chain! They were willing to sell me some POS chain tool that might
work only once.
I assume I just buy a correct chain or slightly longer chain than I need and punch out
the links I don't need, then install the master link, stick the chain on the bike and
go.
I should probably measure everything first, before buying a chain. Or take the bike
in and buy a quality chain and install myself.
Thank you gentlemen.
STRAIN RELIEF
Well now I know what that tool is now also. I have been using Needle Nose vice grips for this.
I would use the big standard vice grip to set the strain relief, wait, then after the set, quickly
use the neele nose vice grips to stick it through the hole. Yes, even if I have a too small
ID (where the wire go though) I've been known to use a dremel cutting burr to widen
the ID inside of the strain relief. I don't have every size in stock...and it's good to use
up what is in stock first.
I should ask at my local surplus machine tool, aircraft parts place if they have one.
Cheers,
Danke jean-paul
That is a tool to open chains sir. Like the ones on bicycles.
I see two people on the globe pushed "enter" on the same time
Heck, I had that sitting around for the longest time no knowing what kind of tool
that is. Holy Cow, I need to get a new bike chain as the old one broke and the
good folks at the bike shops want something like $135USD for chain installation
plus the chain! They were willing to sell me some POS chain tool that might
work only once.
I assume I just buy a correct chain or slightly longer chain than I need and punch out
the links I don't need, then install the master link, stick the chain on the bike and
go.
I should probably measure everything first, before buying a chain. Or take the bike
in and buy a quality chain and install myself.
Thank you gentlemen.
STRAIN RELIEF
Well now I know what that tool is now also. I have been using Needle Nose vice grips for this.
I would use the big standard vice grip to set the strain relief, wait, then after the set, quickly
use the neele nose vice grips to stick it through the hole. Yes, even if I have a too small
ID (where the wire go though) I've been known to use a dremel cutting burr to widen
the ID inside of the strain relief. I don't have every size in stock...and it's good to use
up what is in stock first.
I should ask at my local surplus machine tool, aircraft parts place if they have one.
Cheers,
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$135 just for chain installation is absurd, so excessive that I wonder if there was a miscommunication, often a new chain requires new sprockets or means it's time for some other work.
New chains all have a few extra links so you just trim them to size, you can't buy one the "correct" size.
Modern bike chains don't have a "master link", they are joined with the chain tool.
The push for more and more "speeds" has made the modern bike chain rather specialised, your old chain tool may well not be suitable.
You may need a specific bike chain tool, depends on the details, do your research -Park tools have useful information on their website and the tools are recommended.
Best wishes
David
This all assumes that you have a derailleur bike, one speeds are simple, may still use a master link.
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