I'd like to start collecting the gear needed to build some of these projects. I have no background in soldering or electronics at all but have been reading the forums for months and want to start building up the equipment arsenal.
Supporting the timing on this is the fact that my son is about to start in on his EE classes next semester, and I thought some of these projects could be fun for us to work on together.
I also noticed that there were no sticky posts regarding equipment lists, since most people here take for granted the knowledge about what you need.
Questions that I've had while thinking about this:
Links to Amazon pages where the items can be bought would be convenient.
Aside from gear, links to youtube videos explaining critical techniques would also be nice, as well as to videos showing how to practice them.
Supporting the timing on this is the fact that my son is about to start in on his EE classes next semester, and I thought some of these projects could be fun for us to work on together.
I also noticed that there were no sticky posts regarding equipment lists, since most people here take for granted the knowledge about what you need.
Questions that I've had while thinking about this:
- what's a good soldering iron that will suit our needs? not looking for el cheapo barely-gets-the-job-done bargain here, but something that will last a lifetime as the go-to tool.
- what kind of tips do we need for it?
- what kind of solder is appropriate?
- what other gadgets and accoutrements are required or recommended or nice to have?
Links to Amazon pages where the items can be bought would be convenient.
Aside from gear, links to youtube videos explaining critical techniques would also be nice, as well as to videos showing how to practice them.
- Weller soldering station WTCP or equivalent. (bought one when I was 15 years old and now I am 52 and still using it.)
- With Magnastat tips 6, 7 and 8 in various sizes.
- Best for hobby is 60/40 Sn/PB with flux. Don't use the ecofriendly solder. I like old Stannol solder.
- good cutters, plyers, bending tools and so on. isopropylalcohol for cleaning the soldered PCB's with a toothbrush
- With Magnastat tips 6, 7 and 8 in various sizes.
- Best for hobby is 60/40 Sn/PB with flux. Don't use the ecofriendly solder. I like old Stannol solder.
- good cutters, plyers, bending tools and so on. isopropylalcohol for cleaning the soldered PCB's with a toothbrush
What tools you need depends on what you want to work on. The sort of high end solder stations, and probably the best at Amazon, maybe start with Hakko. They are good in various ways, lightweight, easy to manipulate and hold steady, good temperature regulation, etc. However, they are not cheap. Optional handles and tips for micro-soldering cost more (for models that can even work with such accessories). That said, a common Weller temperature controlled iron can do nearly as much in the right hands, maybe aside from micro-soldering. A variety of tips in different sizes, and solder in different diameters is useful. The right size tip can bring the heat to bear at an appropriate rate. Appropriate diameter solder allows it to be fed into a joint at good but not excessive rate, depending on the joint size. Leaded solder is usually easier to work with, but is not allowed for commercial manufacturing due to the lead content. 60/40 is a common low melting point alloy with reasonable strength. 63/37 melts about 10 degrees cooler which can be useful in some cases, but it is a softer alloy. Chemwik solder wick is great for when solder needs to be removed. A syringe of paste flux for electronics soldering can be handy. Isopropyl alcohol 99% and acid brushes are good for removing solder flux from circuit boards after soldering.
There is really no reason to buy everything at once for things like wire cutters, strippers, needle nose pliers, etc.
If doing very small work, a soldering microscope can be quite useful, as can a head mounted magnifier. Adjustable lighting from various angles at once can be quite helpful at times. Gadgets like 'helping hands' solder aids can act like a third hand to hold things in place for soldering.
How about a circuit board holder?
A good DVM is essential. I like Fluke with true RMS AC voltage capability. An oscilloscope is probably the next most useful test instrument, with 100MHz bandwidth and at least 2 channels being kind of a defacto standard in some places. An adjustable bench power supply with at least 3 outputs, so you can do something like +-15v and +5v all at once.
Wow! There is a lot of stuff! Some of it makes life easier and some is more essential. In a pinch one can get by with very little.
Last thing I might mention is that someone going to college to study EE doesn't actually take hardly any EE classes until the 3rd year of college. Many 4-year graduates actually know very little in practical terms, perhaps more so if having attended one of the better schools. Most of the learning will have been theory. It is assumed that practical knowledge can be gained in an entry level job. There is no time to cover everything in only 4 years, is why.
There is really no reason to buy everything at once for things like wire cutters, strippers, needle nose pliers, etc.
If doing very small work, a soldering microscope can be quite useful, as can a head mounted magnifier. Adjustable lighting from various angles at once can be quite helpful at times. Gadgets like 'helping hands' solder aids can act like a third hand to hold things in place for soldering.
How about a circuit board holder?
A good DVM is essential. I like Fluke with true RMS AC voltage capability. An oscilloscope is probably the next most useful test instrument, with 100MHz bandwidth and at least 2 channels being kind of a defacto standard in some places. An adjustable bench power supply with at least 3 outputs, so you can do something like +-15v and +5v all at once.
Wow! There is a lot of stuff! Some of it makes life easier and some is more essential. In a pinch one can get by with very little.
Last thing I might mention is that someone going to college to study EE doesn't actually take hardly any EE classes until the 3rd year of college. Many 4-year graduates actually know very little in practical terms, perhaps more so if having attended one of the better schools. Most of the learning will have been theory. It is assumed that practical knowledge can be gained in an entry level job. There is no time to cover everything in only 4 years, is why.
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Ah, for context, I originally posted this in the pass-labs forum. I didn't realize there was a separate equipment forum. My goal is to implement some first watt designs. Our starting project will probably be an F6.
It's nice to think that by doing these home projects while he's still in school that he might get a leg up in his interviews by having practical experience to talk about where others are only able to talk about their GPAs.
It's nice to think that by doing these home projects while he's still in school that he might get a leg up in his interviews by having practical experience to talk about where others are only able to talk about their GPAs.
Since Son is years away from an EE, and an EE is _not_ usually a technician, don't do "lifetime buys".
I made a career as a _technician_ with a Weller iron, RS's cheapest wire-nippers, and a Heath VTVM(*).
Temp-controlled irons are now decently priced and probably the way to go. DMMs have gotten stupidly cheap, and IMHO the $10 ones are 1/4 as good as a Fluke at 1/10th the price. You SHOULD (eventually) have three meters: at start-up you may need to read both V and I real-quick to avoid smoke, and a man(/woman) with two meters never knows which one is right, so a third for sanity-checks and incidental readings. A $10 DMM will also check your trailer lights and wall outlets, and you don't cry if it falls off a ladder.
(*)In Addition: amp-building needs all your general metal-work tools, an endless list. Plus frequently wood-work shop. I even grew a fiberglass operation for roadworthy speakers.
I made a career as a _technician_ with a Weller iron, RS's cheapest wire-nippers, and a Heath VTVM(*).
Temp-controlled irons are now decently priced and probably the way to go. DMMs have gotten stupidly cheap, and IMHO the $10 ones are 1/4 as good as a Fluke at 1/10th the price. You SHOULD (eventually) have three meters: at start-up you may need to read both V and I real-quick to avoid smoke, and a man(/woman) with two meters never knows which one is right, so a third for sanity-checks and incidental readings. A $10 DMM will also check your trailer lights and wall outlets, and you don't cry if it falls off a ladder.
(*)In Addition: amp-building needs all your general metal-work tools, an endless list. Plus frequently wood-work shop. I even grew a fiberglass operation for roadworthy speakers.
Bench PSU with current limiting? Not sure about what you see across the pond, but over here in the UK there are old Farnell ones (2 output) to be had on Ebay for around 50 GBP (approx 65 USD). You can sometimes snaffle a TTI / Thurlby for similar if you keep an eye out (they're usually more, but as they're common (and very tough) they sometimes get sold off cheaply).
Few tools I know of are as much use in my experience (and it'll double up as a general household stand-in PSU)
edit - I see Mark suggested a bench psu as well. I second that -)
Few tools I know of are as much use in my experience (and it'll double up as a general household stand-in PSU)
edit - I see Mark suggested a bench psu as well. I second that -)
Very good suggestions above, just take it easy.
Sadly no lifetime purchases here, (same as with computer equipment), just buy average commercial quality stuff, preferrably from established brands or whatever experienced Members suggest, and "learn to play guitar while playing" meaning: start with some simple project.
Meaning YT videos, books, etc. are great, but you also need to develop manual dexterity and familiarity with construction technique and that comes only from using hands and brain together.
Before tackling the F6 (which of course is an excellent amp) I would start with a simpler one, maybe a TDA20x0/LM1875 chipamp kit or similar.
Forget the apparent "circuit simplicity" which is not the main point: you will still have to populate and solder the PCB, get elements for a power supply (including power transformer), heatsink, input and output connectors, mains wiring, even a pilot light and fuse holder , get and drill some kind of chassis, although this first project may very well be mounted on a piece of plywood, including bolting down the transformer, you most certainly *will* have grounding problems, maybe instability, oscillation, overheating, hum, hiss, you name it ... "like on a big amp" ....
You will see for yourself that careless grounding, putting output connectors or PT too near inputs is problematic, shielding even with a piece of kitchen aluminum helps, etc.
Not worrying about the circuit itself but on *implementation* .
Next project can be more complex and so on, step by step, and at each step he´ll feel more confident, because he´ll have mastered the previous one.
Sadly no lifetime purchases here, (same as with computer equipment), just buy average commercial quality stuff, preferrably from established brands or whatever experienced Members suggest, and "learn to play guitar while playing"
meaning: start with some simple project.Meaning YT videos, books, etc. are great, but you also need to develop manual dexterity and familiarity with construction technique and that comes only from using hands and brain together.
Before tackling the F6 (which of course is an excellent amp) I would start with a simpler one, maybe a TDA20x0/LM1875 chipamp kit or similar.
Forget the apparent "circuit simplicity" which is not the main point: you will still have to populate and solder the PCB, get elements for a power supply (including power transformer), heatsink, input and output connectors, mains wiring, even a pilot light and fuse holder
, get and drill some kind of chassis, although this first project may very well be mounted on a piece of plywood, including bolting down the transformer, you most certainly *will* have grounding problems, maybe instability, oscillation, overheating, hum, hiss, you name it ... "like on a big amp" ....You will see for yourself that careless grounding, putting output connectors or PT too near inputs is problematic, shielding even with a piece of kitchen aluminum helps, etc.
Not worrying about the circuit itself but on *implementation* .
Next project can be more complex and so on, step by step, and at each step he´ll feel more confident, because he´ll have mastered the previous one.
Forum lost my post when it asked me to log in again so I'll repeat it in brief.
For a basic set up:
* 2 bench PSU so you can do split rail designs. I bought a couple of 0-30v 5A on ebay for around $65AUD each similar to this one: DC Power Supply Precision Variable Digital Lab Regulator Converter 0-30V 0-10A 6216809898708 | eBay. Invaluable for the short circuit / over current protection as well as the variable voltage selection.
* DMM - Fluke 101 or upwards. Or a good value one is a Tenma at $33AUD https://au.element14.com/tenma/72-8150/multimeter-cr/dp/1283644
* Basic electronics toolkit - available on amazon for $30-40ish. They will have all the basic hand tools for electronics - but all you really need to start with is Side Cutters, Small Pliers, Solder Sucker, decent wire strippers.
* PCB Holder is invaluable. Around $15aud or less https://au.element14.com/velleman-sa/vthh6/circuit-board-holder-165x125mm/dp/2529026 I use this and it is pretty good.
* Hakko FX-888 soldering iron is brilliant. Digital (and accurate) thermal control with presets, very fast heat up time, very comfortable grip. Not the cheapest but better than the WES51D by miles.
* Consumables - 60/40 solder (eco stuff is harder to work with), hookup wire, heatshrink etc
* Basic hand tools for chassis work - cordless drill, drill bit set (2.5-8/10mm), step drill bit saves a lot of work, hacksaw, dremel kit is useful.
Obviously you can go nuts and spend $$$ on things like signal generator, oscilloscope, distortion analyser etc etc but those are not really essentials. Pick those up as you find deals on auction sites and classifieds.
so I'll repeat it in brief.For a basic set up:
* 2 bench PSU so you can do split rail designs. I bought a couple of 0-30v 5A on ebay for around $65AUD each similar to this one: DC Power Supply Precision Variable Digital Lab Regulator Converter 0-30V 0-10A 6216809898708 | eBay. Invaluable for the short circuit / over current protection as well as the variable voltage selection.
* DMM - Fluke 101 or upwards. Or a good value one is a Tenma at $33AUD https://au.element14.com/tenma/72-8150/multimeter-cr/dp/1283644
* Basic electronics toolkit - available on amazon for $30-40ish. They will have all the basic hand tools for electronics - but all you really need to start with is Side Cutters, Small Pliers, Solder Sucker, decent wire strippers.
* PCB Holder is invaluable. Around $15aud or less https://au.element14.com/velleman-sa/vthh6/circuit-board-holder-165x125mm/dp/2529026 I use this and it is pretty good.
* Hakko FX-888 soldering iron is brilliant. Digital (and accurate) thermal control with presets, very fast heat up time, very comfortable grip. Not the cheapest but better than the WES51D by miles.
* Consumables - 60/40 solder (eco stuff is harder to work with), hookup wire, heatshrink etc
* Basic hand tools for chassis work - cordless drill, drill bit set (2.5-8/10mm), step drill bit saves a lot of work, hacksaw, dremel kit is useful.
Obviously you can go nuts and spend $$$ on things like signal generator, oscilloscope, distortion analyser etc etc but those are not really essentials. Pick those up as you find deals on auction sites and classifieds.
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If opting for a Hakko solder iron, I would probably go for this one: Hakko FX951-66 T15-D08, D12, D24, D32, D52 Soldering Station with Chisel Tip T15-D08/D12/D24/D32/D52, Blue/Yellow: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
This is the type that can be used with a micro-soldering handle and tips. Also, good to buy foam covered handles for each tip to make tip changes go faster without having to wait for tips to fully cool. Handles are another $10 each. Micro soldering handle is $$$ more as are tips. They work well though.
However, for many years I was quite happy with one of these, and still use it sometimes: Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station - Soldering Irons - Amazon.com which is much more cost efficient. It can also be adjusted for about 50 degrees lower temperature than the Hakko FX951.
(no need to get into hot air tools yet )
This is the type that can be used with a micro-soldering handle and tips. Also, good to buy foam covered handles for each tip to make tip changes go faster without having to wait for tips to fully cool. Handles are another $10 each. Micro soldering handle is $$$ more as are tips. They work well though.
However, for many years I was quite happy with one of these, and still use it sometimes: Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station - Soldering Irons - Amazon.com which is much more cost efficient. It can also be adjusted for about 50 degrees lower temperature than the Hakko FX951.
(no need to get into hot air tools yet
)
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We use the wes51d at work and to be honest I don't rate it. I found the temperature control to be inaccurate and the iron slow to heat up on the units we have. One of them fell apart (maybe not suited to industrial use perhaps). They aren't as comfortable and seem to be much cheaper / less reliable than the Weller of old.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not hating on Weller - I've had one of their older units last 25 years of daily use before it crapped out - but I've just had no luck with this particular latest generation batch of 51s that we got and for personal use, prefer the Hakko.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not hating on Weller - I've had one of their older units last 25 years of daily use before it crapped out - but I've just had no luck with this particular latest generation batch of 51s that we got and for personal use, prefer the Hakko.
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