These are good;
Router Bits - Products
I would stick to 1/4” bits in a trim router, is rough because the cutter is trashed after a few inches in that situation.
Router Bits - Products
I would stick to 1/4” bits in a trim router, is rough because the cutter is trashed after a few inches in that situation.
Ha. I thought i was being conservative with 5 mm. Shows what i know. Could you maybe explain the benefit of a 12 mm bit over the 6mm i was looking at? Apart from the eye watering cost, it seems a bit meaty for my little palm router.
101748 6MM 1/4" Electric Hand Trimmer Wood Laminator Router Joiners Tool 220V: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
This is from the Amazon website and is the source of your problems;
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A compact, powerful router trimmer with a high quality, solid aluminium body.
Lightweight tool offers greater flexibility and is ideal for trimming, edge forming, slot cutting, decorative work and many other uses.
Supplied with wrenches and guides.
¼" & 3/8" Collets
Variable Speed
Parallel Fence
Dust Extraction Facility
Spindle Lock
Depth Adjustment
Lock-On Switch
Speed Control Dial This is NOT a Makita, however most of parts are compatible with Makita RT0700C Comes with two collets, 1pc of 1/4" and 1pc of 3/8" collet.
Input power: 710W
**********************************************************************************************
You are asking too much from a laminate trimmer. Too little power for the job, unless you take very small cuts. The reason I suggested 12mm bits is significantly stronger shaft strength but it is pointless on what is essentially a toy. It looks like a Makita but isn't up to Makita build quality.
Ok, thabks for the continued advice.. I know router is itty bitty.. My logic for choosing it was that i need to cut itty bitty holes for my 4 inch fullrangers, and the thought of pivoting a fullsize router in such a tight circle on a 20cm wide baffle seemed a no-no.
I would observe that in my tests, the router shown no signs of bogging down, or even slowing, apart from when ive pushed it a bit hard at the points where both grains are at 45 degrees to the cut. You are probably all right though, maybe its just not solid enough.. I will tighten everything i can, continue my tests with super shallow passes and see if i can get a clean cut. Otherwise ill borrow a bigger router and make a new circle jig.
Regarding the bit size, will a 3/8 inch bit load up my router a lot more? Consesus opinion is to stick to 1/4 inch?
Carpenter suggested i use a hole saw to do the internal cut for the fullranger, then one of those bits with the bearing on to widen the hole for the "lip" the speaker sits on. But i think those are all straight edge bits?
Does such a thing as a sanding wheel for a router exist? I was imagining last night cutting the hole a bit small then sanding it gradually out to final dia. Using my sliding circle jig to gradually increase diameter.
I would observe that in my tests, the router shown no signs of bogging down, or even slowing, apart from when ive pushed it a bit hard at the points where both grains are at 45 degrees to the cut. You are probably all right though, maybe its just not solid enough.. I will tighten everything i can, continue my tests with super shallow passes and see if i can get a clean cut. Otherwise ill borrow a bigger router and make a new circle jig.
Regarding the bit size, will a 3/8 inch bit load up my router a lot more? Consesus opinion is to stick to 1/4 inch?
Carpenter suggested i use a hole saw to do the internal cut for the fullranger, then one of those bits with the bearing on to widen the hole for the "lip" the speaker sits on. But i think those are all straight edge bits?
Does such a thing as a sanding wheel for a router exist? I was imagining last night cutting the hole a bit small then sanding it gradually out to final dia. Using my sliding circle jig to gradually increase diameter.
I cut an 8.25" dia 4mm flange depth and then 7.25" diameter through the 1" thick baffle (plywood) last night. My Porter Cable laminate trimmer did not bog down on a 1/4" down turn bit. I was doing roughly 1/8" depths of cut.
Unless Robin's router is a real dog, I don't see it's power as the problem. Maybe it has a bad collet, but there's no need for 1/2" shank tooling for this job!
Unless Robin's router is a real dog, I don't see it's power as the problem. Maybe it has a bad collet, but there's no need for 1/2" shank tooling for this job!
Ok so i am about to pull the trigger on some new bits.
Need to decide between the freud o-flute downcut 1/4 inch or the whiteside standard spiral downcut. Pricez are basically the same
I also need to decide between getting one good 3/8 inch straight cut bit or a pair of 1/4 inchers. Probably whiteside.
Tempted by the extra strength of the 3/8 given ive broken 3 cheap 1/4 inchers, but for the same price i can get 2 1/4 inchers. Final opinions?
Thanks!
Need to decide between the freud o-flute downcut 1/4 inch or the whiteside standard spiral downcut. Pricez are basically the same
I also need to decide between getting one good 3/8 inch straight cut bit or a pair of 1/4 inchers. Probably whiteside.
Tempted by the extra strength of the 3/8 given ive broken 3 cheap 1/4 inchers, but for the same price i can get 2 1/4 inchers. Final opinions?
Thanks!
Yeah, I'd say about an inch per second, give or take, as 5/8's wrote (love the username, btw). Mostly worried about keeping the power cable out of the way of the router than feeding it. Just do it as smoothly as possible.
Had a little bit of chipout of the top plywood layer, but thems sadly the breaks.
Just do it as smoothly as possible.Had a little bit of chipout of the top plywood layer, but thems sadly the breaks.
Pano--- my URL has an extra "/url" on the end. You have a Mod screwdriver. If you clean-up my typo the link may work.
Silverline 264895-1500W DIY 1/2" Plunge Router 230V: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Anybody? Final opinions before i order? O flute or standard downcut? 3/8 or 2x 1/4"? Cheers!
Hi all quick update. Ive recieved 2x whitwside straight cuts, and 2x downcut spirals (cheaper to buy those from the US than the freud or cmt bits here in italy, including shipping! Go figure)
I also got to the bottom of my snapping bit issue. As suggested, it was a hardware/ user issue. My lovely circle jig. Turns out i had screwed it too tight to the wood, so it was resisting turning. When i was cutting, i didnt really notice, but the stress on the plate was causing the attaching bracket to flex a few mm. This was enough for the bit to touch the side if the slot it sits in. 3mm Stainless steel plate, meet 24,000 rpm router bit. That would do it eh?
I have now modified the circle jig, with a guide pin at the other end of the router base, which should hold it absolutely solid and remove any flexing.
Ive also glued up a test piece of translam, using offcuts, so once i get the modified plate back from the metalwork guy, ill start doing some tests with my new bits.
I also got to the bottom of my snapping bit issue. As suggested, it was a hardware/ user issue. My lovely circle jig. Turns out i had screwed it too tight to the wood, so it was resisting turning. When i was cutting, i didnt really notice, but the stress on the plate was causing the attaching bracket to flex a few mm. This was enough for the bit to touch the side if the slot it sits in. 3mm Stainless steel plate, meet 24,000 rpm router bit. That would do it eh?
I have now modified the circle jig, with a guide pin at the other end of the router base, which should hold it absolutely solid and remove any flexing.
Ive also glued up a test piece of translam, using offcuts, so once i get the modified plate back from the metalwork guy, ill start doing some tests with my new bits.
yay! i did my first test with the new downcut router bit, fixed circle jig, and glued up test section of translam.
ill let the pictures speak for themselves. i just gave a quick wipe around the top edge with 220 grit sandpaper, apart from that its all raw cuts.
ill let the pictures speak for themselves. i just gave a quick wipe around the top edge with 220 grit sandpaper, apart from that its all raw cuts.
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