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Old 19th September 2018, 06:25 PM   #11
nashbap is offline nashbap  United States
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I used this recently on Baltic Birch to cut the hole and do a flush mounts. Superb.

Whiteside Router Bits RD2100 Standard Spiral Bit with Down Cut Solid Carbide 1/4-Inch Cutting Diameter and 1-Inch Cutting Length

Whiteside Router Bits RD2100 Standard Spiral Bit with Down Cut Solid Carbide 1/4-Inch Cutting Diameter and 1-Inch Cutting Length - Down Spiral Router Bits - Amazon.com

Hope you can get it reasonably in Italy.

Nash
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Old 19th September 2018, 07:36 PM   #12
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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downcut router bit
I also use that Whiteside bit and am happy with it. Works well with the Jasper circle jig. I typically cut 1/2" or 3/4" veneered a ply or plain old MDF.
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Old 19th September 2018, 07:42 PM   #13
GASCo is offline GASCo  United States
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downcut router bit
Quote:
Originally Posted by robinlawrie View Post
Finished the hole with the second bit, came out ok, a bit rough at the edges, and i had no idea how fast i should even move the router. I went down about 5 mm a pass.
An easy way to access speed is that if you're moving too slow, you'll burn the cut. If you're moving too fast (which is hard to do) it will splinter the wood or wobble the bit (especially on 1/4" and/or dull bits)
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Old 19th September 2018, 08:49 PM   #14
DPH is offline DPH  United States
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I didn't recommend the Whiteside bit due to the Italy part, but I'm equally pleased with mine. (in a Jasper jig no less)
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Old 19th September 2018, 09:26 PM   #15
robinlawrie is offline robinlawrie  United Kingdom
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Thanks for all the wonderful advice guys. The whiteside bit costs slightly less, and is a touch longer, given that it seems i have to ship the fred ones from US anyway (ive emailed freud to ask).. So ill probably go for that.. Im sure ill have more panicy questions before actually doing the cuts.. Anyone experience in routing stacked plywood on the end grain? Should i rout inside final line first, then do a finishing pass for the last mm or 2 at full depth (1cm, its got a lip, then a full depth cut hidden behind driver that can be as ugly as necessary) cheers all
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Old 19th September 2018, 11:14 PM   #16
Tromperie is offline Tromperie  Australia
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Quote:
I went down about 5 mm a pass.
I have a 13mm Makita router with a screw down feature, using a homemade circle jig. I go down about 3mm at a time. Going down 5mm at a time seems a recipe for trouble, particularly in translam. I would also opt for a 12mm bit.
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Old 20th September 2018, 12:02 AM   #17
phase is offline phase  United States
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The cleanup pass in the end is a good idea, but there will always be a better side, as is the nature of wood, so be prepared to do a bit of hand work afterwards.

I have used the down cutting bits on a cnc router, to help prevent the part from lifting from the vacuum table. For manual/hand routing, I would probably use the standard bits, so as not to push the tool away from the work.

Constantly check the chuck to make sure it is holding the bit securely, really is a bummer when the cutter drops out gradually, and ruins your parts.

Last edited by phase; 20th September 2018 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 20th September 2018, 06:16 AM   #18
robinlawrie is offline robinlawrie  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tromperie View Post
I have a 13mm Makita router with a screw down feature, using a homemade circle jig. I go down about 3mm at a time. Going down 5mm at a time seems a recipe for trouble, particularly in translam. I would also opt for a 12mm bit.
Ha. I thought i was being conservative with 5 mm . Shows what i know. Could you maybe explain the benefit of a 12 mm bit over the 6mm i was looking at? Apart from the eye watering cost, it seems a bit meaty for my little palm router.
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Old 20th September 2018, 06:19 AM   #19
robinlawrie is offline robinlawrie  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phase View Post
The cleanup pass in the end is a good idea, but there will always be a better side, as is the nature of wood, so be prepared to do a bit of hand work afterwards.

I have used the down cutting bits on a cnc router, to help prevent the part from lifting from the vacuum table. For manual/hand routing, I would probably use the standard bits, so as not to push the tool away from the work.

Constantly check the chuck to make sure it is holding the bit securely, really is a bummer when the cutter drops out gradually, and ruins your parts.
Thanks for the pointers, after destroying my first bit on my first cut, i will definitely be checking the chuck.

Im hoping the combination of shallow passes, a 3mm stainless steel jig screwed to work piece, and a plunge router with bith handa pushing down, will be enough to avoid any lifting, but then ive no idea of the lifting force involved. Time to get a test piece laminated up from a spare piece of ply..!
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Old 20th September 2018, 08:44 AM   #20
robinlawrie is offline robinlawrie  United Kingdom
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Ok, so im definitely doing at least one thing very wrong, podsibly several. Im trying to cut my second subwoofer cutout (just flat-on birch ply, straight cut bit). I tried a bit faster spindle speed this time to try to get a cleaner cut..

I broke all 3 straight cut bits and im only on my second pass of 4 to get through the 22mm ply. During the cut, twice i noticed the bit slowly dropping out of the chuck (which was done up with all my force, and as the bit dropped it was leaving big scratches down the bit shaft)

At this stage the idea of using expensive bits is rather a nono methinks.!

So.. I was moving the router maybe 2-4 cm a sec (hard to tell, but i used gentle force and kinda let it decide the speed) as i reached the points in the circle where grain changed direction it naturally slowed down cutting and required a bit more force to proceed. What on earth am i doing so terribly wrong?! Btw in theory im using cobalt bits.. So not the worst quality..

Last edited by robinlawrie; 20th September 2018 at 08:46 AM.
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