Crimping VS. soldering

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I think I'm going to have to jump on that $20 Paladin 8000 - I've been meaning to get a decent crimper!

What is a good set of dies to get with it? I was thinking the:

2031 Non-Insulated Terminal 22-10AWG
2040 Insulated Terminal 22-12AWG

By the way, was the PA-1360/2095 recommended specifically for that Cardas spade connector or for spade connectors in general? These dies are described in the catalog as ferrule crimpers.
 
Ex-Moderator
Joined 2002
bzo said:
I think I'm going to have to jump on that $20 Paladin 8000 - I've been meaning to get a decent crimper!

What is a good set of dies to get with it? I was thinking the:

2031 Non-Insulated Terminal 22-10AWG
2040 Insulated Terminal 22-12AWG

By the way, was the PA-1360/2095 recommended specifically for that Cardas spade connector or for spade connectors in general? These dies are described in the catalog as ferrule crimpers.
This was my point in

the first post on page 3 of this thread. There are far more connector types then there are crimp dies. If you can match the dies to the connectors you have available to you, that is great. But if you can't, what are you going to do, use a pair of pliers? That is my Palidin and different die sets on page 2 of this thread. I used them a lot when I was on the road but we were provided with specific connectors that I knew the die sets would work well on. This is now not always the case. I will try the 2095 die set, but you will still need a general crimper if you're to meet all your crimping needs. Even the Palidin by itself is not enough.
 
bzo said:


so where would one use the 2095 vs the 2031 non-insulated terminal? Don't most non-insulated terminals have round connectors? These 2 dies look very different to me.

The difference is whether the crimp sleeve is split or solid. The 1360 is for a solid sleeve known as a ferrule and it needs a different style of crimp. A split sleeve is not a ferrule.
 
Question about Canare RCA plug crimp tooling

Hi guys,

I'll be making up some cables using the crimp-type Canare RCA plugs. This site http://white.hometheatertalk.com/diycable.htm has some recommendations about tooling. I'll get the Canare crimp die, but I'm not sure about the crimp frame. The Canare crimp frame is $85, which seems pretty pricy. That Paladin crimp frame looks like a good tool for the price. Does anyone know if it's compatible with the Canare die? If so, anybody have any comments regarding how it might compare to the PartsExpress crimp frame that the site above recommends?

Thanks
 
Re: Question about Canare RCA plug crimp tooling

andy_c said:
Hi guys,

I'll be making up some cables using the crimp-type Canare RCA plugs. This site http://white.hometheatertalk.com/diycable.htm has some recommendations about tooling. I'll get the Canare crimp die, but I'm not sure about the crimp frame. The Canare crimp frame is $85, which seems pretty pricy. That Paladin crimp frame looks like a good tool for the price. Does anyone know if it's compatible with the Canare die? If so, anybody have any comments regarding how it might compare to the PartsExpress crimp frame that the site above recommends?

Thanks
They are not compatible. Canare stuff is very nice but very expensive.
 
Actually, you apparently can use the Paladin 8000 and 2649 die with Canare RCAP-C5F / L-5CFB. I did considerable research on the net about this, since I didn't want to shell out for the Canare tools either. That is how I came across the cheap Paladin CrimpAll in the first place. I'm still waiting for my Canare cable and connectors, but I have no doubts that the 2649 die will work properly with the RCAP-C5F... Somebody did a detailed comparison of the die dimensions using a vernier caliper, and the 2649 is bang on.

Let me see if I can hunt down the URL where I found the info...
 
hifiZen said:
Actually, you apparently can use the Paladin 8000 and 2649 die with Canare RCAP-C5F / L-5CFB. I did considerable research on the net about this, since I didn't want to shell out for the Canare tools either. That is how I came across the cheap Paladin CrimpAll in the first place. I'm still waiting for my Canare cable and connectors, but I have no doubts that the 2649 die will work properly with the RCAP-C5F... Somebody did a detailed comparison of the die dimensions using a vernier caliper, and the 2649 is bang on.

Let me see if I can hunt down the URL where I found the info...

It is the bolt for the hold-down of the dies that is off, not the size of the die in the jaws of the frame. Besides, the canare unit is a much finer tool. Like butter...
 
markp said:


It is the bolt for the hold-down of the dies that is off, not the size of the die in the jaws of the frame. Besides, the canare unit is a much finer tool. Like butter...

RCAP-C5F is the part number of the Canare RCA connector, not a die part number. I think he's talking about using the Paladin die and frame, not trying to use the Paladin frame with Canare die. Did I get this right?
 
andy_c said:


RCAP-C5F is the part number of the Canare RCA connector, not a die part number. I think he's talking about using the Paladin die and frame, not trying to use the Paladin frame with Canare die. Did I get this right?
He's trying to put a canare die in a paldin frame.
I've got both types of frames and dies in front of me and I can say without a doubt they are not interchangable.
 
No, Paladin die in Paladin frame... 2649 die with 8000 CrimpAll frame. Fits perfectly, of course. although it's not the factory die for the Canare connector, the dimensions are correct, so it should work just the same. Also, andy... you might want to read this:

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=cables&n=82007

I'm not sure what to make of it, myself, since I've never actually seen the Canare dies and the PE crimp frame in person.
 
As long as the crimp sizes are the same you can use any brand crimper. I use Canare, Paladin and Greenlee crimpers on the same size BNCs all day. Its the die size that matters unless its something funky like an Elco or EDAC which require thier own tools.
I've got a 2647 in my crimpers right now(Kings BNCs) and a 2649 in the drawer for use with ADC BNCs on Belden 1694A
 
hifiZen said:
Looks like the 2649 die from Paladin will work with both the L4 and L5 series of cables and connectors from Canare, and should work with various Belden coax cables too.

Thanks very much for the info. I'm thinking about using Belden 89259 which I like because it has a Teflon dielectric. It appears that the Canare L4-CFB cable has the closest dimensions to this. That would mean using the Canare RCAP-C4F RCA connector.

Decisions, decisions...
 
Yeah, the conclusion that I came to is that you should not mix-'n-match dies and frames. Even if the dies fit a different frame, there often seems to be some problem with the jaw spacing and that probably translates to incorrect crimp pressure.

I chose to go with Paladin instead of Canare just because of the price difference. If I were using these tools professionally, I wouldn't hesitate to spring for whatever was needed. For home use though, I could hardly justify the price of the Canare stuff. It's not targeted at hobbyists! As an extra bonus, the Paladin tool has dies available for all sorts of other stuff... I also bought an RJ45 die which beats the pants off my old RJ45 crimper, one for insulated terminals, and will probably get a die for wire ferrules as well so that I can crimp my Cardas spades.

89259 looks pretty interesting for audio IC use. I like the 1694A and 1695A coax as well... great specs for video use.
 
Don't expect great things from crimping coaxial with the hexagonal die. I wish I could put it in stronger words but I will just say they suck. If you have done any serious rf work you know what I am talking about. Get the more expensive screw type connector instead.

The paladin 8000 looks very good but they 'get you' with the die.
I will maye get one myself. It would seem that the 2029 is a good one for the standard terminal and 2031 is for the Rodd's terminal
 
I don't know how many hex crimped cables I have had with the ground becoming lose from the body of the connector. I suspect the pressure is distributed over to much surface area and the crimptool cannot apply enough pressure to get the job done right.
...and if I needed the console working and it was after 5pm I have had to fix them myself :rolleyes:
Bottom line get a different connector.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.