Been getting some great advice on this forum and although not specific to audio, I know many here probably use multimeters and well, kinda wanted to get some feedback between 2 models in particular I was looking at, which I suspect made at the same factory except one seems to have a few options the other use to have but no longer has on the updated model.
https://www.amazon.ca/Multimeter-Ja...easurement/dp/B01MZ1RAT3/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071SGPT9W...colid=QGFCW1CXG2SH&coliid=I3MZU8YG4KK0H&psc=1
I'm partial to the Neoteck 6000... extra leads and such.
The Janisa, a few settings like Ω seems to be divided up. I thought the point of auto-ranging was that it figured that stuff out for you... that said, I don't know... having it divided up like that might be more useful?
Also the Janisa has the HFE tester which the Neoteck no longer has, but saw a few posts saying that those are never really very accurate/useful anyways.
So... ya... otherwise, both are the same essentially. Just don't want to get one and realize that the other may be more useful later down the road.
Any feedback/advice?
I looked at a few Top 10 lists for multimeters but, often they forget to mention the use... cars vs diy electronics for example. I liked the looks and reviews of these two most, and within budget.
https://www.amazon.ca/Multimeter-Ja...easurement/dp/B01MZ1RAT3/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071SGPT9W...colid=QGFCW1CXG2SH&coliid=I3MZU8YG4KK0H&psc=1
I'm partial to the Neoteck 6000... extra leads and such.
The Janisa, a few settings like Ω seems to be divided up. I thought the point of auto-ranging was that it figured that stuff out for you... that said, I don't know... having it divided up like that might be more useful?
Also the Janisa has the HFE tester which the Neoteck no longer has, but saw a few posts saying that those are never really very accurate/useful anyways.
So... ya... otherwise, both are the same essentially. Just don't want to get one and realize that the other may be more useful later down the road.
Any feedback/advice?
I looked at a few Top 10 lists for multimeters but, often they forget to mention the use... cars vs diy electronics for example. I liked the looks and reviews of these two most, and within budget.
Autoranging does select the range for you. But if you test a low resistance, you might see the thing hunt through a few ranges before it settles. OK now and then, but sometimes you want to measure a lot of low resistances, and it is a pain to wait as it blip, blip, blip, settles on a range. So the autorangers all have a range hold button. The other is not self-ranging, so you select the range yourself. Both styles work, and you quickly get used to it. When I was growing up and learning, there were no autoranging meters.
I myself never use the hfe function, I test transistors with the diode junction test function. But some guys find it useful.
Both are similarly priced, and under $50. May I suggest at this point either would work, and would have enough capability to teach you meter use. At some future point, if you advance in electronics, you will be better set to chose a more advanced meter. I do tend to keep my tools a long time, but a $50 meter is not forever most times. At some point, spending $200 might make sense, and that buys a darn good meter these days. You can spend a lot more than that, but better have a good reason, in my view.
My activity was in pro audio service, so my needs might not be the same as say a guy who builds 9v battery powered guitar effects. SO I look at features in the light of my needs. You should too. I don't use the hfe as I said. Things like that and capacitor testing all run at tiny voltages from the meter, what the meter cannot do is check for leakage at real world conditions. A capacitor might read value fine, and might work OK at low voltage, but as soon as I put 400v on it, it leaks like a screen door. A meter cannot tell me that. SO be aware the limits of testing.
Frequency sounds useful, except I already know my mains is 60Hz, and ripple is 120Hz. If I am in doubt which, A just hook the scope to it and count the humps. The only other thing I ever used freq meter for was setting the speed on a tape deck. Put a 3000Hz tape in and set the speed.
it doesn't hurt to have a cap test or hfe or freq, but if I don;t need tham, I don;t want to pay extra for them. At the prices here, It is moot.
I myself never use the hfe function, I test transistors with the diode junction test function. But some guys find it useful.
Both are similarly priced, and under $50. May I suggest at this point either would work, and would have enough capability to teach you meter use. At some future point, if you advance in electronics, you will be better set to chose a more advanced meter. I do tend to keep my tools a long time, but a $50 meter is not forever most times. At some point, spending $200 might make sense, and that buys a darn good meter these days. You can spend a lot more than that, but better have a good reason, in my view.
My activity was in pro audio service, so my needs might not be the same as say a guy who builds 9v battery powered guitar effects. SO I look at features in the light of my needs. You should too. I don't use the hfe as I said. Things like that and capacitor testing all run at tiny voltages from the meter, what the meter cannot do is check for leakage at real world conditions. A capacitor might read value fine, and might work OK at low voltage, but as soon as I put 400v on it, it leaks like a screen door. A meter cannot tell me that. SO be aware the limits of testing.
Frequency sounds useful, except I already know my mains is 60Hz, and ripple is 120Hz. If I am in doubt which, A just hook the scope to it and count the humps. The only other thing I ever used freq meter for was setting the speed on a tape deck. Put a 3000Hz tape in and set the speed.
it doesn't hurt to have a cap test or hfe or freq, but if I don;t need tham, I don;t want to pay extra for them. At the prices here, It is moot.
Well... the HFE thing, could be a good DIY project even, see a few DIY websites for making one and YouTube videos, so not really too important.
From what I've read, both meters are auto-ranging... I guess what I'm mainly focusing on is the dial... would it be better to have that full dial on the Janisa, or the half dial on the Neoteck.
I'm too new at this to know if that Hz% button is something I'd ever need since still not sure when I would use it.
Also wish they'd say if the Janisa had a sticker or if the dial was painted on (silk screened) which I know sounds weird, but my old cheap one I got years ago, the glue on the sticker is turning like oil and going through the sticker and making things harder to read.
From what I've read, both meters are auto-ranging... I guess what I'm mainly focusing on is the dial... would it be better to have that full dial on the Janisa, or the half dial on the Neoteck.
I'm too new at this to know if that Hz% button is something I'd ever need since still not sure when I would use it.
Also wish they'd say if the Janisa had a sticker or if the dial was painted on (silk screened) which I know sounds weird, but my old cheap one I got years ago, the glue on the sticker is turning like oil and going through the sticker and making things harder to read.
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The Janisa is NOT auto-ranging unless the image is wrong.
Also, both meters appear to be somewhat cheap in quality. This is I believe a Hylec/Mastech designed meter. If it is similar to the other models I have seen torn down, the fuses will be 250V ceramic fuses (which means all the safety info on the front is a complete lie). There will be a couple of MOV's and that is about it for input protection. Also, in general HFE on a meter is a sign of low quality.
In my opinion, you would be MUCH better served by getting something like the UT139C as your primary meter (which ahs appropriate fuses and input protection). Then supplement this with one of the 328 based transistor/component testers taht you can pick up on ebay for under $20.
I've seen the UT139C mentioned online, I think watching Collin's Lab on YouTube maybe as well... I was going to get it except that the price jumps from $35 up to $60, and doesn't have the part that detects live wires, which looks handy... if it works.
Hopped on Amazon.ca and clicked cancel order request. Hopefully not too late.
Go figure, when in a rush, that shipping status will sit in the warehouse for 3 days, now I have something to cancel, and it's 'being shipped today' about 8 hours after ordering.
The meter, Janisa, is I guess branded as PeakMeter PM18C... lots of reviews on YouTube but none in English so, no idea what they're saying.
https://des.gearbest.com/uploads/pdm-desc-pic/Distribution/image/2016/08/23/1471922536255897.jpg
EDIT - Nope... already being shipped. :S
Hopped on Amazon.ca and clicked cancel order request. Hopefully not too late.
Go figure, when in a rush, that shipping status will sit in the warehouse for 3 days, now I have something to cancel, and it's 'being shipped today' about 8 hours after ordering.
The meter, Janisa, is I guess branded as PeakMeter PM18C... lots of reviews on YouTube but none in English so, no idea what they're saying.
https://des.gearbest.com/uploads/pdm-desc-pic/Distribution/image/2016/08/23/1471922536255897.jpg
EDIT - Nope... already being shipped. :S
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Nope... I live where you live, where we have Princess Auto. It's ok, but I see what Harbor Freight has online and wish we had one here. Though, probably be like Target. They'll open one in Canada, and offer a different selection than what they have in the USA and wonder why they went out of business so fast.
I have a cheap, 10yr old multimeter from Canadian Tire. Would like to upgrade to something better to keep on my desk, and I'll keep the old one for car work in the toolbox since it's pretty dirty.
+1
I'm not a fan of cheap tools, meters, etc. I do research and try and find the
best value in a tool.
If it was me, I'd go to a pawn shop and test the multimeters they have.
You can buy a good used Fluke for under 100USD. Even for a hobby
you want to buy something once that you can depend on working.
But that is just me.
I last one I got, the Fluke 12, was 69.00
and I don't think had ever been used.
It and came with three different probe tips,
spare fuses, and a bright yellow case to boot.
The meter on the right, had a cal sticker over the screw needed to be
removed to replace the battery--which died. In this case I told the
folks that the meter probably fried in use, that is why it didn't work.
It lower my price to $78.00 out the door.
I've also lost some good deals too. A NOS Simpson 260 for
under $40.00. I started talking to the guy behind the counter
about it as we tried to make it work but wouldn't. I almost
walked out the door for 21.00 but then he started looking
at ebay. I wanted the out the door price not 21.00 plus tax.
Take your time and do your home work.
Happy hunting too.
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Oh I wish Pawn Shops in Canada were like in the USA, or at least what you see on TV. Most Pawn Shops here now sell mostly just junk brand imports new, there's no pawn involved.
I'm also an hour+ away from anything so, pretty much live off eBay/Amazon.
I hate cheap tools as well. I work on my car myself, and starting in on home renos and I always buy good solid tools with very good warranties.
... however....
I am also starting out in a new hobby, and it would suck to spend $200 on a multimeter, use it a few dozen times, and then well, maybe you'll find it for sale at the Pawn Shop.
Like all my previous hobbies and ventures, if it's something I think I'll stick to, I'll buy something "good"... not junk, but quite useful and not break-the-bank expensive. Something that I should be able to get in the $40 range I hope.
If, in a year from now, I'll really into it, then I upgrade and keep the old one as a spare just in case.
The Mastech multimeters seem to show on a lot of Top 10 lists... any thoughts on those? apart from the ugly green. Those are tricky because a bunch that start as MS8 then lots of variants after that, and every Top 10 list seems to list a different one. The MS8268 gets mentioned a few times... also auto/manual ranging? maybe that one I have on order is auto/manual?
https://www.amazon.ca/Mastech-MS826...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6EB3VQ9Z55AB8CQGWAE6
I'm also an hour+ away from anything so, pretty much live off eBay/Amazon.
I hate cheap tools as well. I work on my car myself, and starting in on home renos and I always buy good solid tools with very good warranties.
... however....
I am also starting out in a new hobby, and it would suck to spend $200 on a multimeter, use it a few dozen times, and then well, maybe you'll find it for sale at the Pawn Shop.
Like all my previous hobbies and ventures, if it's something I think I'll stick to, I'll buy something "good"... not junk, but quite useful and not break-the-bank expensive. Something that I should be able to get in the $40 range I hope.
If, in a year from now, I'll really into it, then I upgrade and keep the old one as a spare just in case.
The Mastech multimeters seem to show on a lot of Top 10 lists... any thoughts on those? apart from the ugly green.
Those are tricky because a bunch that start as MS8 then lots of variants after that, and every Top 10 list seems to list a different one. The MS8268 gets mentioned a few times... also auto/manual ranging? maybe that one I have on order is auto/manual?https://www.amazon.ca/Mastech-MS826...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6EB3VQ9Z55AB8CQGWAE6
I think anything FLUKE is out of my price range at this point... no use spending a lot on a great meter, and a year from now all I use it for is testing batteries.
I've seen the UT139C mentioned online, I think watching Collin's Lab on YouTube maybe as well... I was going to get it except that the price jumps from $35 up to $60, and doesn't have the part that detects live wires, which looks handy... if it works.
Hopped on Amazon.ca and clicked cancel order request. Hopefully not too late.
Go figure, when in a rush, that shipping status will sit in the warehouse for 3 days, now I have something to cancel, and it's 'being shipped today' about 8 hours after ordering.
The meter, Janisa, is I guess branded as PeakMeter PM18C... lots of reviews on YouTube but none in English so, no idea what they're saying.
https://des.gearbest.com/uploads/pdm-desc-pic/Distribution/image/2016/08/23/1471922536255897.jpg
EDIT - Nope... already being shipped. :S
The UT139C has non-contact voltage detection. You can order it from ebay for pretty cheap.
I really hope that the internals you showed are NOT the internals of the Janisa. It looks like they dropped the MOVs all together and just have a couple of PTCs. Downright abysmal input protection.
Maybe try returning the Janisa meter to Amazon.
Yup, given the feedback it'll be sent back.
Is the non-contact voltage detection and add-on item? Or built in?
I just bought a Fluke 12B (with leads and rubber shell) on ebay for $22.50 plus shipping to replace the old one I have. The thing still works when it wants to, but the battery terminals have lost their springiness. I bought the old one used close to 20 years ago. It has been submerged, frozen, dropped off buildings, and god knows what else since I have had it.
I was aiming to buy a model 77 or 87, but people kept sniping me out at the last minute. One model 77 got away for $27 and another for around $40. The model 12b was just one of those listings where I put in a max bid of $30 and forgot about it until I got a notification that I had won.
I also trained with a simpson 260 and was issued a fluke 77 in the navy. I quickly fell in love with it after seeing it survive some "oops" moments probing the wrong wires. When I am out in the field, I always have a fluke meter with me. They very nearly always tell the truth, where other meters go wonky or straight up lie to me. Sometimes, you just can't get a good reading, and the simpson-style analog meters or an o-scope are more suitable. I do know one thing, though: I have spent way too much time trying to get cheap meters to do their job, only to hunt down my fluke and use it to finish the job.
I was aiming to buy a model 77 or 87, but people kept sniping me out at the last minute. One model 77 got away for $27 and another for around $40. The model 12b was just one of those listings where I put in a max bid of $30 and forgot about it until I got a notification that I had won.
I also trained with a simpson 260 and was issued a fluke 77 in the navy. I quickly fell in love with it after seeing it survive some "oops" moments probing the wrong wires. When I am out in the field, I always have a fluke meter with me. They very nearly always tell the truth, where other meters go wonky or straight up lie to me. Sometimes, you just can't get a good reading, and the simpson-style analog meters or an o-scope are more suitable. I do know one thing, though: I have spent way too much time trying to get cheap meters to do their job, only to hunt down my fluke and use it to finish the job.
Both meters are likely made by PeakMeter and simply rebadged.
Digital Multimeters-Peakmeter Instrument Co., Ltd. Shenzhen City, Multimeter
PM18C
PM18C Digital Multimeter Temperature & True RMS-Peakmeter Instrument Co., Ltd. Shenzhen City, Multimeter
Also see
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-meter-that-may-be-worthy-of-some-attention/
Digital Multimeters-Peakmeter Instrument Co., Ltd. Shenzhen City, Multimeter
PM18C
PM18C Digital Multimeter Temperature & True RMS-Peakmeter Instrument Co., Ltd. Shenzhen City, Multimeter
Also see
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-meter-that-may-be-worthy-of-some-attention/
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