EMU 0404 usb 2.0 with a power on problem

I bought this for parts from ebay.

Like seller told me, it damaged by opposite power polarity or by power polarity bridge, probably.

After power on, nothing is happening!
Because we have not any circuit diagram, I am looking with the continuity of multimeter the paths after power switch.

It is a searching in blind, sure! Maybe the best solution is to find the appropriate flex connector for working with the both parts open, not closed like now.

After that, I found some electronics to have a relation with the power paths. At the attachment photo I have mark some of these.
I have changed 2 of these (by yellow circles) and now lights on the green led (power on led) above headphone level, but no any other led.

1) Any suggestions?
2) Can someone find to me the appropriate code (farnell, mouser) for extra flex connector? I want to work, with both sides open.
 

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With marvelous instructions of diyAudio wiki and some appropriate conductors (finally splits my emu), my emu has repaired 90% almost.

I must changed three power converters.

But, I have problem with phantom power, still. 0V!

As I saw to the wiki, the part U10 (PHOI) has the responsibility for the 47V (probably).
I measured the round area of U10 to mine emu and an other well function emu.

At the photo attachment, with yellow notes are the identical voltages btw two emu's. The red ones are differences and in brackets are mine values.

I thought the problem was to U10. I found a PHKI (same but with a less current) but it is nothing changed, unfortunately!

Any suggest, please!

attachment.php
 
It looks like you don't have a High (3.3V) on the Enable (pin 4) of U10. Is the top board connected and does the 48V LED come on when you press the switch?

The 48V should appear between pins 2 or 3 to gnd (pin 1) of a XLR connector, not on a TRS (6.3mm).
 
Yes, the top was connected with a long 20cm conductors (I had split the emu).

OK, I found the problem. The pin4 of U10 had a cold solder, some Chip-Quik flux and now is perfect.
PHIKI now gives almost 41V (has 1.1V the pin3, FB vs 1.23 of PHOI).

sidiy, thanks for the interesting.
 
I bought this for parts from ebay.

Like seller told me, it damaged by opposite power polarity or by power polarity bridge, probably.

After power on, nothing is happening!
Because we have not any circuit diagram, I am looking with the continuity of multimeter the paths after power switch.

It is a searching in blind, sure! Maybe the best solution is to find the appropriate flex connector for working with the both parts open, not closed like now.

After that, I found some electronics to have a relation with the power paths. At the attachment photo I have mark some of these.
I have changed 2 of these (by yellow circles) and now lights on the green led (power on led) above headphone level, but no any other led.

1) Any suggestions?
2) Can someone find to me the appropriate code (farnell, mouser) for extra flex connector? I want to work, with both sides open.
I have a board with probably the same problem you had. After replacing the first DC/DC converter I got the green LED lighting as you got. Could you please list the component you replaced in order to get the board working? I would be really glad!!!

Andrea
 
Andrea, I have note to the two photos the parts has changed with yellow circles. The last one is U10, for the other parts, must to find in my files a big photo to see what type of marks are.
 

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Sorry for necro-digging this topic, but I see there are many owners of this card here and I need some help.

I recently bought the card used and out of warranty. The card works okay but has some serious problems with cold start. Every day in the morning I have to turn it on and off and on again many, many times before it boots properly. After that, the card seems to work (and even boot) fine until I turn it off in the evening. The next morning, the whole scenario repeats.

What happens if the card fails to boot:
  • "Power on" LED is on
  • Crackling pulses come out of headphones
  • Drivers do not recognize the card
  • No other LEDs are on
  • Controls do not respond
And optionally:
  • All LEDs are on
  • Some of the LEDs are off: "Sync Status", "Direct Monitor", "S/PDIF"

Any idea what is wrong?

What I already tried:
  • Get another power supply
  • Connect the two jumper "BOOTSTRAP" pins inside and turn on the device
  • Visually check all the electrolytic capacitors inside

Thanks in advance.
 
Sorry for necro-digging this topic, but I see there are many owners of this card here and I need some help.

I recently bought the card used and out of warranty. The card works okay but has some serious problems with cold start. Every day in the morning I have to turn it on and off and on again many, many times before it boots properly. After that, the card seems to work (and even boot) fine until I turn it off in the evening. The next morning, the whole scenario repeats.

What happens if the card fails to boot:
  • "Power on" LED is on
  • Crackling pulses come out of headphones
  • Drivers do not recognize the card
  • No other LEDs are on
  • Controls do not respond
And optionally:
  • All LEDs are on
  • Some of the LEDs are off: "Sync Status", "Direct Monitor", "S/PDIF"

Any idea what is wrong?

What I already tried:
  • Get another power supply
  • Connect the two jumper "BOOTSTRAP" pins inside and turn on the device
  • Visually check all the electrolytic capacitors inside

Thanks in advance.

Hello, just found your Message across internet- it is very common Problem, which is caused by oxidation of power Switch so that the voltage loss over its contacts becomes too high. Replace the switch as i did and it will work proper for Next 7 years:) Detailed repair scheme is somewhere on russian ixbt forum but i cannot find a link ad-hoc.
 
Hope you are all doing well. I need help. My EMU 0404 USB DAC worked until today. Only the GREEN Light lights up, nothing, my Computer mentions ASIO stopped working, and the Hardware is no longer detected. If anyone has any experience in this, Please share, need for Church. I have a spare, and this worked. Please advise.THANKS. Stay Safe.
-Alex
 
My EMU 0404 USB has gone through a few power supplies over the years, but the box itself has worked fine until the last power supply failed. Since then the unit has been quirky powering up. If I turn it off for several minutes it usually turns back on OK. However, if I turn it off for a short time, it doesn't reset cleanly as it powers up. I get one of several odd patterns of lights from the LEDs, or just the green power LED alone. Reading this thread made me check the power switch. If its like the one referenced at iXBT then its a SPDT switch. I see a really good short when the switch is on, with only a fraction of a milivolt drop across the contacts. However, when the switch is off the other 2 contacts change from open circuit to about 25 kilo-ohms. If this is really a SPDT switch, there is definitely something bad happening with that extra contact. Is that side of the switch actually used? I wondered if there is something related to USB power wired there.
 
The 5V supplies I have all droop to about 4.8V under load from the EMU 0404 USB. I found a supply from an old Dell PDA with the right plug that is rated at 5.4V . It actually gives 5.55V with no load, and drops to 5.4V under load. That's a little high, if the power goes directly to any 5V chips, but I took a chance and tried powering the EMU with it. Voila, no more power up issues. I seems entirely reliable turning the EMU off and on quickly, both using the power switch, and by pulling out the power plug. Perhaps the older supplies I've been using for the past 15 years had a higher output voltage under load, and nothing has degraded in the EMU at all. I don't trust using a continuous 5.4V, so now I need to find a supply with the right plug that gives a nice steady 5V.
 
I tried several 5V supplies I have at home with my EMU 0404 USB. All were a little over 5V without load, dropping to about 4.75 to 4.8 volts under load, and I had quirky startup issues. I just got the same model of Delta supply that had recently failed from someone on E-Bay, an ADP-10SB rev DH. It only drops from 5.2V to 5.13V under load from the EMU box, and the box reliably starts up. So, it looks like the EMU needs close to 5V to work well, and a lot of wall warts have pretty poor voltage control. There seem to be quite a few of these Delta supplies on E-Bay for just a few pounds each. Judging from the E-Bay pictures, that product code covers a few variants. The one I received looks exactly like the one I had before, with the right plug for the EMU box. The only difference is this one lacks a ferrite ring on the lead. The EMU seems pretty well designed to suppress supply noise, so I doubt matters.