I plan to get a new workbench top primarily for soldering and metalwork. As of now I am thinking to use maple butcher block 60"x30"x2.25". This Bench Tops & Components | Tops | Square Edge Work Bench Top - Maple 60" W x 30" D x 2-1/4" Thick | 601782 - GlobalIndustrial.com or something like it. Is there any reason I should consider a different material or depth?
I figure an ESD surface would be great for soldering but not so good for metalwork.
As always suggestions and advice welcome.
I figure an ESD surface would be great for soldering but not so good for metalwork.
As always suggestions and advice welcome.
You can De-static wood workbench surfaces by first paste waxing to seal wood then misting with a fine soap film like 409 or even the cheap spray cleaner from a dollar store, as long as you have a grounded plate along an edge for the conductive film to ferry any charges to.
They make conductive formica type laminates that would hold up fair to metal work, but not like maple. The conductive laminates are quite expensive. I'd go with the soap film. To see just how well it works try dragging your finger over the faceplate of an old analog meter and see how static affects the needle, then try the same after letting a soap film dry on it.
Doc
They make conductive formica type laminates that would hold up fair to metal work, but not like maple. The conductive laminates are quite expensive. I'd go with the soap film. To see just how well it works try dragging your finger over the faceplate of an old analog meter and see how static affects the needle, then try the same after letting a soap film dry on it.
Doc
Linoleum covering
The original flooring material, not the modern replacement polyvinyl chloride substitute.
It's durable; heat resistant; does not create static by friction, though I would not consider it as good as a proper ESD mat.
Choose a minimal pattern, otherwise it can be hard to see small parts on the surface.
The only down side it that the edges can crack, so it's best to protect them with a wood surround.
My present covering has been in almost daily use for about 6 years now. Both optical and non-optical mice work well.
The original flooring material, not the modern replacement polyvinyl chloride substitute.
It's durable; heat resistant; does not create static by friction, though I would not consider it as good as a proper ESD mat.
Choose a minimal pattern, otherwise it can be hard to see small parts on the surface.
The only down side it that the edges can crack, so it's best to protect them with a wood surround.
My present covering has been in almost daily use for about 6 years now. Both optical and non-optical mice work well.
Attachments
A strong friend was kind enough to come over tonight and set the workbench top on the table for me. It is quite a slab of wood. It was all he could do to get it up the stairs. Sadly he found the beer too bitter.
Next project is to oil the surface before I start using it. I have to figure out the best kind of oil. Maybe mineral oil?
I got the surface for machining and electronics projects but I'd really love to use it for baking bread. Probably should not try to use it for both however.
Next project is to oil the surface before I start using it. I have to figure out the best kind of oil. Maybe mineral oil?
I got the surface for machining and electronics projects but I'd really love to use it for baking bread. Probably should not try to use it for both however.
Don't do it! Mineral oil will never "dry". Consider an oil that will catalyze. You want cross-links to form in the oil to provide more durability and seal the surface. For bread baking or any contact with food try this:
Buy General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Pint at Woodcraft
"Salad Bowl Finish" is the same material I use on cutting boards. Get the pad sander out and work through the grits up to 320 or 500...then oil...several coats.
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Thanks for the URL. I followed a lot of the links on Woodcraft. I don't see why I would want a drying finish vs. a non-drying finish for the top. I checked the manufacturer's site and they say to use mineral oil. The top is probably going to get machine oil splattered on it anyhow. I have a Wusthof branded product that's a mixture of oil and beeswax which has worked nicely on some kitchen surfaces (and on my guitar neck and bridge). I am still thinking straight mineral oil will be the best finish for the top though, and mineral oil is how it was treated when it was manufactured.
While I am serious about my bread, and would love to have a surface like this for baking, I was joking about dual purpose. No one would want swarf in a sandwich, not to mention little bits of solder.
While I am serious about my bread, and would love to have a surface like this for baking, I was joking about dual purpose. No one would want swarf in a sandwich, not to mention little bits of solder.
Update: about forty years ago I bought a bottle of mineral oil. I thought it was enough to last. Well, I found the bottle... lying on its side. (Note to self: do not store mineral oil bottles on their sides.) It being a nice day, if a bit chilly, I hiked out to the drug store and came home with a brand new quart of mineral oil. Lovingly I rubbed most of it into the maple using my bare hands. Most sensual experience I've had in a while -- probably since the night a few weeks ago when way overtired I fixed a pizza and confused the extra virgin olive oil for the Dawn detergent. I jest not. Really nice for the cuticles.
Got me wondering what would be the best oil to use for tonearm anti-skating fluid, but I realize this is not the forum.
So the top is oiled. I could not reach all of the underside, as I cannot lift the thing. I hope that will not cause a future problem with warping. I'm going to let it sit overnight before doing more with it. I must say the wood looks really pretty, and you should feel my hands!
Got me wondering what would be the best oil to use for tonearm anti-skating fluid, but I realize this is not the forum.
So the top is oiled. I could not reach all of the underside, as I cannot lift the thing. I hope that will not cause a future problem with warping. I'm going to let it sit overnight before doing more with it. I must say the wood looks really pretty, and you should feel my hands!
There is a downside
Being concerned about the dire warnings of warpage if all surfaces were not oiled, I (with some difficulty) lifted the top up onto its rear edge to expose the bottom. I knew the bottom was unfinished. What I did not know was that there were four metal staples sticking out. These destroyed the cheap but otherwise attractive laminated surface on which the new top was mounted. And could have done a job on someone's body parts, e.g. mine.
Boos has been in business long enough that I would have expected better. I am not a fan of overly detailed safety warnings, but a simple note to beware of the sharp staples would have been appreciated. Particularly as there was a two page sheet warning about proper oiling. Is it just me, or would others expect a wood product to come with staples in it?
Nonetheless I carefully oiled the bottom as instructed. But I did *not* use my bare hands.
Being concerned about the dire warnings of warpage if all surfaces were not oiled, I (with some difficulty) lifted the top up onto its rear edge to expose the bottom. I knew the bottom was unfinished. What I did not know was that there were four metal staples sticking out. These destroyed the cheap but otherwise attractive laminated surface on which the new top was mounted. And could have done a job on someone's body parts, e.g. mine.
Boos has been in business long enough that I would have expected better. I am not a fan of overly detailed safety warnings, but a simple note to beware of the sharp staples would have been appreciated. Particularly as there was a two page sheet warning about proper oiling. Is it just me, or would others expect a wood product to come with staples in it?
Nonetheless I carefully oiled the bottom as instructed. But I did *not* use my bare hands.
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