I bought that exact same Kester solder a year ago and have been having issues with it. I'm finding that it doesn't flow well and becomes dull and blobby (for want of a better word) on the soldering iron tip.
I'd been using a roll of 60/40 that I'd taken 15 years to run through, and I never had any issues with it.
But this new Kester roll that I got just doing it for me, despite the many glowing recommendations I see on the net. I was experiencing similar with the lead-free varieties but didn't expect it with this stuff.
I'd been using a roll of 60/40 that I'd taken 15 years to run through, and I never had any issues with it.
But this new Kester roll that I got just doing it for me, despite the many glowing recommendations I see on the net. I was experiencing similar with the lead-free varieties but didn't expect it with this stuff.
I've been pretty happy with the 63/37 AIM branded solder (RMA flux) and 63/37 Kester brand (water soluble flux) that I picked up at Mouser/Digikey.
The only flux I'd steer clear of is the Chip-Quik "no-clean, water-washable". It's supposedly safe to leave the residues on the PCB, but the residues are almost greasy, so the board gets pretty messy. It just begs to be washed off ... which you can do with hot water (60 ºC minimum). If you want no-clean flux, get actual low-residue no-clean.
Tom
The only flux I'd steer clear of is the Chip-Quik "no-clean, water-washable". It's supposedly safe to leave the residues on the PCB, but the residues are almost greasy, so the board gets pretty messy. It just begs to be washed off ... which you can do with hot water (60 ºC minimum). If you want no-clean flux, get actual low-residue no-clean.
Tom
Yes, even with the no-clean flux, I use Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to clean the residue.
When I was a kid, I used Ersin Multicore 60/40 solder, which worked well.
Don't like using lead free solder on older equipment, I have to do more work and the finished result doesn't look good as new. I tried removing all the old solder away, its a little better with LF solder but the L solder flows beautifully. To combat solder fumes, I place the maggie lamp at a angle between my nose and the soldering iron, and hold my breath while soldering.
Solder
SN100C FCT NC601 3% Flux Core Wire Solder, No Clean – Pacwest Supply
SN100C Rosin Core Lead Free Wire Solder, FCT NC601, No Clean
SN100C FCT NC601 3% Flux Core Wire Solder, No Clean – Pacwest Supply
SN100C Rosin Core Lead Free Wire Solder, FCT NC601, No Clean
I always wash my hands before lunch for many years. However the recommended Covid hand washing time takes longer than what I did in the past.
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The attics of 1900's Federation houses will have 'lead powder' coating on the beams and junk stored up there. Leaded car fuel smog accumulated over the decades settling inside the roofs would outweigh all your LF consumer goods.
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The no-clean flux I've dealt with has usually required actual flux cleaner, which contains nastier solvents. Acetone seems to be an ingredient (based on smell).
Tom
The amount of solder consumed by repair and hobby builders is a tiny fraction of the amount used in electronics production.
Not enough for an environmental disaster, if we hobby people used regular solder.
The lead free business was maybe started by some green lobby, their data might be suspect, just like saccharine years ago.
They checked the data, you would have to be taking 30 cups of assorted drinks like coffee, tea and soda for more than 15 years for the stuff to harm you.
By that time all the milk and soda would also have harmed you.
Now saccharine is not popular, newer and more expensive substitutes are used.
So this anti saccharine business could have been supported by a party which stood to benefit by the stoppage of use of saccharine.
I now come across remotes with the chip bonded to the circuit, all the tracks are conductive, the only solder is for crystal, capacitor, LED and battery contacts.
So more friendly to the environment.
Come to think of it, how much is the pollution caused by the PCB making process?
So much copper is etched away, and sometimes not disposed of properly, I think a lot more harmful than the solder at least.
Not enough for an environmental disaster, if we hobby people used regular solder.
The lead free business was maybe started by some green lobby, their data might be suspect, just like saccharine years ago.
They checked the data, you would have to be taking 30 cups of assorted drinks like coffee, tea and soda for more than 15 years for the stuff to harm you.
By that time all the milk and soda would also have harmed you.
Now saccharine is not popular, newer and more expensive substitutes are used.
So this anti saccharine business could have been supported by a party which stood to benefit by the stoppage of use of saccharine.
I now come across remotes with the chip bonded to the circuit, all the tracks are conductive, the only solder is for crystal, capacitor, LED and battery contacts.
So more friendly to the environment.
Come to think of it, how much is the pollution caused by the PCB making process?
So much copper is etched away, and sometimes not disposed of properly, I think a lot more harmful than the solder at least.
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When I started my trainees-ship in 1980, my company mass produced PCB boards and all the copper effuent went down the pipes into the water canal next to the factory. Post soldering the PCB's, freon baths was used to clean off the fluxes.
Perhaps manufacturing were carefree in those days...
A lot of the information about leadfree solder is outdated and alloys have improved over the years so there's no reason not to use it.
The reason for removing lead from solder is the same reason lead was removed from paint and automotive fuels, its a neurotoxin and it accumulates in the body.
I wonder if the problems people are encountering is due to poor technique and cheap hobby soldering irons.
The reason for removing lead from solder is the same reason lead was removed from paint and automotive fuels, its a neurotoxin and it accumulates in the body.
I wonder if the problems people are encountering is due to poor technique and cheap hobby soldering irons.
Those were different times. Those old Freon cleaning tanks were great, spraying the board off was like a magic cleaning experience. They are nowhere to be found, now.
I use IPA and either a cut down acid brush or a 1 inch (2.5cm) paint brush which I have cut down to about 3/8 inch (~1cm) which makes it moderately stiff. Works fairly well, but usually takes two passes and I pat it dry afterwards with paper towel or similar. I do mostly SMD these days which may be easier to clean.. I use pb solder. It does come out looking fairly clean.
Yes, but in my experience it is not that easy to find a good ultrasonic cleaner without spending quite a bit of money. It should be heated and ideally have sweep and degas functions.
Also not all components are suitable for ultrasonic cleaning.
Yes the trimmed brush was the same thing I used on plated through holes. The handle's colour was yellow for easy finding. Use cotton buds these days for SMD.
On big boards of SMD's, I use Electrolube Safewash foam. I fully cover the PCB with foam for a few minutes and washed off with tap water. Hair dryer or a heated bed of 50 Celsius for a hour or two. The heated bed is a preheater for SMD rework. Alternatively you can use the heated glass top of the 3D printers.
I like & trust the Safewash to clean and not harm.
I've cleaned Fluke multimeter PCBs with minus the LCD,zerba strips, rotators in an ultrasonic bath of IPA just enough to cover the PCB. There are times I left it in too long and the board is warm. Ultrasonic baths does heats up the liquids. A timer would be a necessity when busy.