If you drive the TU-8600 via the preamp then you have two volume controls with infinite number of combinations that lead to same power output. I remember at least two threads in this forum asking about the best settings for the TU-8500/TU-8200 combinations. Most of what was written there is relevant here as well.
The phase inversion is not in the specs. Hardly any manufacturer mentions that, sometimes they do when it is no happening, but it is quite obvious from the schematics.
The phase inversion is not in the specs. Hardly any manufacturer mentions that, sometimes they do when it is no happening, but it is quite obvious from the schematics.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into the other threads. On the TU8500 schematic, the volume control is at the input, not the outp Sinceut as I had suggested. All the line inputs including the phono section go through the volume control resistor. Since my system seems to sound fine, I'm assuming there is no phase inversion. What should inversion sound like?
Hi Odamone,
I also have a Decware switch box which feeds my Oppo cd player and my DAC to a Luxman MQ-88 driving Raidho mini monitors, a Elekit 8600 driving Klipsh monitors, and a Decware headphone amp driving 6 or 8 'phones. I also have a Decware pre amp as well as a Luxman CL-88 pre both of which, IMO, add colorations to the sound. Stay with the switchbox, nothing in the signal path and waaaay cheaper. Cheers
I also have a Decware switch box which feeds my Oppo cd player and my DAC to a Luxman MQ-88 driving Raidho mini monitors, a Elekit 8600 driving Klipsh monitors, and a Decware headphone amp driving 6 or 8 'phones. I also have a Decware pre amp as well as a Luxman CL-88 pre both of which, IMO, add colorations to the sound. Stay with the switchbox, nothing in the signal path and waaaay cheaper. Cheers
Thanks, it proves adding superfluous active stuff does not make things better when conditions are like that of TU-8600.
For a pre, I’m running mine from a Bluesound Node 2i with a $135 Shunyata venom digital power cable. The system sounds pretty clear with Tidal Masters on good recordings and I can control everything (volume and music selection) from my iPad or iPhone or PC wirelessly. I tried an Emotiva Stealth DC1 dac but it didn’t make the sound any better so that’s heading to sale. I was also using a NAD M32 with BluOS card as a preamp but the 9x cheaper node sounded better. Better highs and more sound stage. I think the M32 didn’t get along with my AC power.
The Node has a variable sub crossover and I have been messing with that but it sounds better without subs in my small office. I can get the subs to work with some songs but I think the room is use too small for subs. The Node can take the low frequency load off the TU-8600 to free up more power for the main speakers.
The Node has a variable sub crossover and I have been messing with that but it sounds better without subs in my small office. I can get the subs to work with some songs but I think the room is use too small for subs. The Node can take the low frequency load off the TU-8600 to free up more power for the main speakers.
Just wanted to share my recent experiences with the TU-8600.
When I first purchased this amp, I assumed that having a preamp in front was the way to go. I needed a way to select among multiple inputs (analogue and digital), and wanted a remote volume control. In the review (
) I saw by the ever popular Steven Guttenberg, he said he assumed most people would use a pre before the amp, so that’s what I did.
Well, after some back and forth with trying to find a good volume setting on the Elekit and my Schiit Freya+ preamp, plus frustration that I was now getting a bit of ground loop hum after adding an REL subwoofer (s510), I decided to try plugging my source DAC directly into the Elekit (don’t ask me why I didn’t try this first… it’s a bit hard to move my amp and access my interconnects). Well, perhaps not surprisingly, everything sounded better going direct. Less noise, higher resolution, and deeper soundstage.
So now, I’ve put an order in for a switch box from Decware. No remote or volume control, but I can live with that.
One surprising finding: The preamp actually functions as a volume attenuator. I assumed my signal would be higher coming out of the preamp than direct from the DAC or phono stage. But unless I have the preamp volume pretty high (past 12 o clock), it actually backs the signal down quite a bit. With my DAC directly into the Elekit, I rarely have the volume pot past 9 O clock and it’s quite loud (I have 98 db sensitivity speakers).
Last bit of advice - use the 8 ohm setting on the Elekit. Even with 4 ohm speakers (I have Tekton Electron SEs rated at 4Ohms) the amp sounds way better on the 8 ohm setting.
When I first purchased this amp, I assumed that having a preamp in front was the way to go. I needed a way to select among multiple inputs (analogue and digital), and wanted a remote volume control. In the review (
Well, after some back and forth with trying to find a good volume setting on the Elekit and my Schiit Freya+ preamp, plus frustration that I was now getting a bit of ground loop hum after adding an REL subwoofer (s510), I decided to try plugging my source DAC directly into the Elekit (don’t ask me why I didn’t try this first… it’s a bit hard to move my amp and access my interconnects). Well, perhaps not surprisingly, everything sounded better going direct. Less noise, higher resolution, and deeper soundstage.
So now, I’ve put an order in for a switch box from Decware. No remote or volume control, but I can live with that.
One surprising finding: The preamp actually functions as a volume attenuator. I assumed my signal would be higher coming out of the preamp than direct from the DAC or phono stage. But unless I have the preamp volume pretty high (past 12 o clock), it actually backs the signal down quite a bit. With my DAC directly into the Elekit, I rarely have the volume pot past 9 O clock and it’s quite loud (I have 98 db sensitivity speakers).
Last bit of advice - use the 8 ohm setting on the Elekit. Even with 4 ohm speakers (I have Tekton Electron SEs rated at 4Ohms) the amp sounds way better on the 8 ohm setting.
This is my experience as well. I tried a Black Ice Audio F360 and it couldn’t beat the Elekit direct. I also use a Decware switchbox but ordered mine with a remote volume. That said, if anyone wants an upgrade path, I can suggest one. The Elekit is amazing but it can be beat…for $10k retail. McGary Audio amp and a Backert Labs preamp will retail 95% of the magic and add oodles of low end grip.