Hi you all,
I have a Philips CD100 from 1982 that won't read the TOC nor start playing or anything,
It was still working perfectly when i replaced it with a front loading machine in the early 90s, it sat unused and untouched in it's original box under my bed for all those years, now it's dead.
Can someone help me to revive my trasured Cd player? it was bought used by my grandpa for my 12th birthday.
guy at Philips service center just looked at it and said "sorry but trash it", we won't repair such an old thing, you can get a new DVD player with the cost of the repair estimate, period.
Thanks
Francesco
I have a Philips CD100 from 1982 that won't read the TOC nor start playing or anything,
It was still working perfectly when i replaced it with a front loading machine in the early 90s, it sat unused and untouched in it's original box under my bed for all those years, now it's dead.
Can someone help me to revive my trasured Cd player? it was bought used by my grandpa for my 12th birthday.
guy at Philips service center just looked at it and said "sorry but trash it", we won't repair such an old thing, you can get a new DVD player with the cost of the repair estimate, period.
Thanks
Francesco
Hi Francesco,
Not sure I can help, but I would say don't trash it. This is based on the Philips CDM0 mechanism which should be pretty reliable, although the laser could have given up.
I recently bought a Micromega which wouldn't read a single CD. It is based on the Philips CDM4. I took it apart, undid all connectors and put it back together. Now it works perfectly!! So try that first.
If that fails, then have a look at this site for all other CD players that used that mechanism:
http://hifi.nn.gx.cn/well/wellview.html?type_x=well&sort_num=401&pagenum=1&pernum=1
You could try to pick up any of the following cheap off ebay and swap the CDM0 over.
PHILIPS CD-200
PHILIPS CD-202
PHILIPS CD-204
PHILIPS CD-104 ? could be a CDM0 or CDM1
Good luck.
Not sure I can help, but I would say don't trash it. This is based on the Philips CDM0 mechanism which should be pretty reliable, although the laser could have given up.
I recently bought a Micromega which wouldn't read a single CD. It is based on the Philips CDM4. I took it apart, undid all connectors and put it back together. Now it works perfectly!! So try that first.
If that fails, then have a look at this site for all other CD players that used that mechanism:
http://hifi.nn.gx.cn/well/wellview.html?type_x=well&sort_num=401&pagenum=1&pernum=1
You could try to pick up any of the following cheap off ebay and swap the CDM0 over.
PHILIPS CD-200
PHILIPS CD-202
PHILIPS CD-204
PHILIPS CD-104 ? could be a CDM0 or CDM1
Good luck.
Don't trash it !
I have had similar experiences with a slightly later Philips CD104.
there are a few threads on repairing these in this fourm, just search for CD104 in the subject.
Mine has exhibited an inability to read the ToC from Cold. have you tried leaving it on for an hour then try ? Sounds strange but these vintage payers suffered from some dry joints between the double sides of the boards. Also lots of internal cable connections which can come unseated or oxidised.
I have had similar experiences with a slightly later Philips CD104.
there are a few threads on repairing these in this fourm, just search for CD104 in the subject.
Mine has exhibited an inability to read the ToC from Cold. have you tried leaving it on for an hour then try ? Sounds strange but these vintage payers suffered from some dry joints between the double sides of the boards. Also lots of internal cable connections which can come unseated or oxidised.
CD100
Hi,
My Cd100 is working again! the lid switch was broken, now it even reads CD-R's perfectly and *tries* to read CD-RW's!
But i still have a problem, when the unit is still cold and i have just turned it on, if i try to play a CD immediately, i get loud bursts of mains hum on the output and the CD fails to initialize, but it will work perfectly a few seconds later, this problem disappears when the unit is warm, both if the unit has been left on or when exposed to an external heat source.
also, the display leds are sometimes flashing erratically during track seeking or cueing.
when i took it apart to fix the switch i have seen no double sided boards inside, just old school single faced bakelite PCBs and no SMD chips.
Thanks
Francesco.
Hi,
My Cd100 is working again! the lid switch was broken, now it even reads CD-R's perfectly and *tries* to read CD-RW's!
But i still have a problem, when the unit is still cold and i have just turned it on, if i try to play a CD immediately, i get loud bursts of mains hum on the output and the CD fails to initialize, but it will work perfectly a few seconds later, this problem disappears when the unit is warm, both if the unit has been left on or when exposed to an external heat source.
also, the display leds are sometimes flashing erratically during track seeking or cueing.
when i took it apart to fix the switch i have seen no double sided boards inside, just old school single faced bakelite PCBs and no SMD chips.
Thanks
Francesco.
That's fantastic news! I think the other problem is beyond my electronics skills, but could it possibly be a failing component in the power supply? Maybe an old capacitor starting to give up?
To find this type of fault may require specific knowledge and test equipment. Maybe a local electronics specialist could check it out. Sounds very fixable though.
Cheers.
To find this type of fault may require specific knowledge and test equipment. Maybe a local electronics specialist could check it out. Sounds very fixable though.
Cheers.
Hello,
Can you upload it here?
Now it's no longer making that noise when it's turned on, maybe because it's summer and it's a temperature related fault.
Anyway, i will replace the electrolytic filter cap in the power supply someday, it's suspect since it's an Asian made Towa capacitor, i will install a NOS 80s axial leaded philips capacitor in its place.
i won't touch the original Philips axial leaded blue capacitors mounted in the audio board of the CD100, these are far more reliable than modern Asian made radial leaded consumer capacitors, whose expected lifespan is far less than 10 years, while Philips capacitors can be expected to last 30-40 years (most early-mid 60s ones i have encountered while restoring vintage Philips gear still have excellent ESR and capacity readings.
Today you can expect this kind of quality and reliability only from professional 105 C° industrial Elna electrolytics or from military tantalum capacitors.
Francesco.
Can you upload it here?
Now it's no longer making that noise when it's turned on, maybe because it's summer and it's a temperature related fault.
Anyway, i will replace the electrolytic filter cap in the power supply someday, it's suspect since it's an Asian made Towa capacitor, i will install a NOS 80s axial leaded philips capacitor in its place.
i won't touch the original Philips axial leaded blue capacitors mounted in the audio board of the CD100, these are far more reliable than modern Asian made radial leaded consumer capacitors, whose expected lifespan is far less than 10 years, while Philips capacitors can be expected to last 30-40 years (most early-mid 60s ones i have encountered while restoring vintage Philips gear still have excellent ESR and capacity readings.
Today you can expect this kind of quality and reliability only from professional 105 C° industrial Elna electrolytics or from military tantalum capacitors.
Francesco.
Hi
side 8-3:
side 8-4:
side 8-6:
side 8-8:
side 8-11:
side 8-12:
side 8-15:
here is my pimping:
8-3:
8-15:
hope that I could help you Till
side 8-3:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
side 8-4:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
side 8-6:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
side 8-8:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
side 8-11:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
side 8-12:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
side 8-15:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
here is my pimping:
8-3:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
8-15:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
hope that I could help you Till
Well, you certainly helped others than Francesco.
I have one of these old beauties too, and it's playing like a dream, cdr's too, there's something about the sound i like too.
Are there more pages than those ? I'm thinking of pcb layout and disassembling, it might be aesier to tweak it that way.
But still i was just passing by when i saw this thread, and i'm very grateful for the schematic.
Al the best for you all.
Ebbe
I have one of these old beauties too, and it's playing like a dream, cdr's too, there's something about the sound i like too.
Are there more pages than those ? I'm thinking of pcb layout and disassembling, it might be aesier to tweak it that way.
But still i was just passing by when i saw this thread, and i'm very grateful for the schematic.
Al the best for you all.
Ebbe
es44 said:Well, you certainly helped others than Francesco.
I have one of these old beauties too, and it's playing like a dream, cdr's too, there's something about the sound i like too.
Are there more pages than those ? I'm thinking of pcb layout and disassembling, it might be aesier to tweak it that way.
But still i was just passing by when i saw this thread, and i'm very grateful for the schematic.
Al the best for you all.
Ebbe
Hi Ebbe
yes there are also the PCBs but I haven't scanned them yet. If I get the time I will do that and post them here.
regards till
you have never seen the Inside of the CD100??
Here are the three PCBs before I have tweeked them.
PCB 1:
PCB 2:
PCB 3:
Here are the three PCBs before I have tweeked them.
PCB 1:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
PCB 2:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
PCB 3:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Philips CD100 upgrade ( CD101 )
Hello,
nice to hear that somebody is a fun fore old CD players.
I have last year listened only player CD 101. ( Meridian 506.20 sound I don't like any more ) The schema is similar to CD100. As I am a lover of natural and lively sound , must say that most of upgrades , what people are made usual by new players, aren't work by Philips 20 years old player. Better rectifier ( shottky ), polypropylene coupling capacitors by power supply, better OPamps BB are made the sound bad -colder and more died.
I have changed all Philips capacitors to ELNA Cerafina and Silmic.
I have tested OPA2134, OPA 627 and must say that something was better ( bass response and hights ) but it was not my taste. The midrange and voice was more clear, dynamic, lively only with NE5533N. I have tested different 5533- Philips, Texas Instruments, Signetic and my favorites are: 1. Signetic 2. Philips. If you can find Signetic or Philips NE5533 AN it be best choice (it is special made for audiophile listening ). I have made for opamps separately special power filtering from 12 V to 9 V ( trough TL431 positive and negative supply ). This was very good for sound. For opamps I use BlackGate FK 100mf and 0,1 mF film capacitors directly connected to OPAmp pins. Please compare , before upgrade, opamps- NE5533 and OPA627 and it can be fixed how different they sound is! But as I says- I live natural and lively sound. It is only question of the taste.
Hello,
nice to hear that somebody is a fun fore old CD players.
I have last year listened only player CD 101. ( Meridian 506.20 sound I don't like any more ) The schema is similar to CD100. As I am a lover of natural and lively sound , must say that most of upgrades , what people are made usual by new players, aren't work by Philips 20 years old player. Better rectifier ( shottky ), polypropylene coupling capacitors by power supply, better OPamps BB are made the sound bad -colder and more died.
I have changed all Philips capacitors to ELNA Cerafina and Silmic.
I have tested OPA2134, OPA 627 and must say that something was better ( bass response and hights ) but it was not my taste. The midrange and voice was more clear, dynamic, lively only with NE5533N. I have tested different 5533- Philips, Texas Instruments, Signetic and my favorites are: 1. Signetic 2. Philips. If you can find Signetic or Philips NE5533 AN it be best choice (it is special made for audiophile listening ). I have made for opamps separately special power filtering from 12 V to 9 V ( trough TL431 positive and negative supply ). This was very good for sound. For opamps I use BlackGate FK 100mf and 0,1 mF film capacitors directly connected to OPAmp pins. Please compare , before upgrade, opamps- NE5533 and OPA627 and it can be fixed how different they sound is! But as I says- I live natural and lively sound. It is only question of the taste.
I agree. I have kept the 5532's in my philips CD104. When I experimented with other opamps they changed the sound, but eventually I came back to the much maligned NE5532. Other OPAMPS sounded more detailed initially, but over time this seemed to be brighter and more fatiguing.
I'm interested in the 9v regulated supplies. Mine just runs off the normal +/-12v supplies but with Cerafine caps.
I'm interested in the 9v regulated supplies. Mine just runs off the normal +/-12v supplies but with Cerafine caps.
Hi you all,
I have finally fixed the CD-100, it just had bad contacts in the door switch, bending them a bit allowed it to play.
Then it had dirty laser lenses and some dry and cracked solder joints.
Anyway, i think it sounds great as-is, so i will not swap anything inside... replacing the original blue jacket axial philips capacitors is quite a bad idea as they're extremely reliable and durable, while modern capacitors are likely not...
and the original components always look way neater!
Francesco
I have finally fixed the CD-100, it just had bad contacts in the door switch, bending them a bit allowed it to play.
Then it had dirty laser lenses and some dry and cracked solder joints.
Anyway, i think it sounds great as-is, so i will not swap anything inside... replacing the original blue jacket axial philips capacitors is quite a bad idea as they're extremely reliable and durable, while modern capacitors are likely not...
and the original components always look way neater!
Francesco
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