Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Yes, I can't wait to hear it :)

Can anyone help me out with a little puzzle?
I don't think that I have anything using my standard 12v rail now, but I'm not 100% sure....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I believe that the green lines from the 7812 and 7912 go to the standard output stage, so I shouldn't don't need those, but what can anyone tell me about the extra orange path on the 12v neg rail? I can see that it ultimately crosses on U220 and U222 and goes to the output/phones section. What purpose to QN24 and QN25 serve for example?

I'm asking because in an ideal world, I would like to remove the 7812 and 7912 and use their V-in points to then provide power for my flea and DOS boards. That way they're separate from everything else.
But I have a feeling it's not quite that simple... or is it?
 
CD63 modding Project

I have almost completed modding my 7th CD63SE. I have uploaded a photo to show the present progress.
What I need to do next is to install a low jitter clock for the Servo, DAC and Decoder.
In the mean time I am constructing voltage regulators using LT1763-5.

Will upload a photo when project is completed. This will be my last modding project for my friends :)
 

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Why not put your OsCon near the IC? For me you're loosing the cap's goodness by having them that far, you should have them where the tiny ceramic (I guess) one are. And if needed, bypass the OsCon by X7R or such on the pins or as close as you can under the BCP.
PPS bypass near the ICs:
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9837/dscn1918rt5.jpg

Yes I know but one to one replacement is easier for the job :D
 
Nice Work as Usual!

Nice looking work!
Being the rookie that I am, I have more questions:
1) Can you summarize what each of the transformers are being used for and what their secondary winding voltage value is before the regulators?
2) Have you done a 67SE and if so, do you have a list of what caps I should replace with OsCONs? Assuming just digital supply lines.
3) What is the relay that is in the lower left hand (back) of the CD player used for?
Thanks
I have almost completed modding my 7th CD63SE. I have uploaded a photo to show the present progress.
What I need to do next is to install a low jitter clock for the Servo, DAC and Decoder.
In the mean time I am constructing voltage regulators using LT1763-5.

Will upload a photo when project is completed. This will be my last modding project for my friends :)
 
Nice looking work!
Being the rookie that I am, I have more questions:
1) Can you summarize what each of the transformers are being used for and what their secondary winding voltage value is before the regulators?
2) Have you done a 67SE and if so, do you have a list of what caps I should replace with OsCONs? Assuming just digital supply lines.
3) What is the relay that is in the lower left hand (back) of the CD player used for?
Thanks

1) Details of the TX can be found in my previous thread 19290:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ntz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1929.html#post3469023
2.) Sorry, I have not done modding work on CD67
3) The relay is the muting circuit. This is to prevent all the cracking noise when switching off the CDP as the stock transistor operated muting circuit was removed
 
I have almost completed modding my 7th CD63SE. I have uploaded a photo to show the present progress.
What I need to do next is to install a low jitter clock for the Servo, DAC and Decoder.
In the mean time I am constructing voltage regulators using LT1763-5.

Will upload a photo when project is completed. This will be my last modding project for my friends :)

Today I spent some time to complete the modding project by installing a low jitter clock for the Servo, the DAC and Decoder as well as LT1763-5 low noise voltage regulators to the CD63SE. Two photos are uploaded for reference.
I am now running the CDP continuously to ensure it functions without problem before I return it to my friend. The SQ is as expected, i.e. Very very Good indeed.
 

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Nice work Highlander :)
I can see you've added your new regs in for the 5v to the Dac, decoder and servo, but you've also removed the standard 7805 regulator. Don't other parts of the circuit like the display chip still need it's 5v supply or do you have a different plan?

Also, could you explain about how/why you've clocked the decoder by adding a new clock feed to near the Dac rather than wire straight to the decoder please? I'm adding a new clock to mine in the next week, so I'm keen to understand what's involved. I've seen mention of the decoder needing a buffered input from the clock.
Thanks,
James
 
Nice work Highlander :)
I can see you've added your new regs in for the 5v to the Dac, decoder and servo, but you've also removed the standard 7805 regulator. Don't other parts of the circuit like the display chip still need it's 5v supply or do you have a different plan?

Also, could you explain about how/why you've clocked the decoder by adding a new clock feed to near the Dac rather than wire straight to the decoder please? I'm adding a new clock to mine in the next week, so I'm keen to understand what's involved. I've seen mention of the decoder needing a buffered input from the clock.
Thanks,
James
I removed the stock 7805 and replaced it with a low noise regulator of bigger capacity to supply all the 5V sources apart from the critical ones like the servo, decoder and DAC. This will ensure all the other circuits using 5V benefit from low noise supply.

Actually 3 coaxial cables are used, one for the servo (8.xxxMhz), one for the DAC (16.xxxMhz) and one for the Decoder (16.xxxMhz).

If you look at the circuit diagram you will notice that the decoder is clocked by a signal via the DAC. To get a better result it is better to clock the decoder directly by an external clock and not via the DAC. Hope this explains the situation.
 
greetings to everyone

Hi all,
discovered this thread and forum recently, I modded a cd63se about 15 years ago doing all of Thorstens mods plus I added a clock, I remember how replacing the signal tracks tracks from one chip to another took nearly as long as all the other mods combined. was really pleased with the result even though I hadn't got a clue what I was doing:confused:, so I decided to buy a beginners book on electronics, It's still gathering dust somewhere.
Anyway I have bought a cd63 off Ebay ready to do even more after I have built a 'lovely cube' headphone amp, so expect me to be asking questions soon.
 
Hi all,
discovered this thread and forum recently, I modded a cd63se about 15 years ago doing all of Thorstens mods plus I added a clock, I remember how replacing the signal tracks tracks from one chip to another took nearly as long as all the other mods combined. was really pleased with the result even though I hadn't got a clue what I was doing:confused:, so I decided to buy a beginners book on electronics, It's still gathering dust somewhere.
Anyway I have bought a cd63 off Ebay ready to do even more after I have built a 'lovely cube' headphone amp, so expect me to be asking questions soon.

You are welcomed and this is the purpose of this thread :) I am sure all of us will share our experience with you.
 
Thanks Higlander,
I have actually been already looking back at your posts as your players after they are modded look quite tidy inside compared to others that look quite chaotic. I noticed one of your first posts was asking where to connect up the new power supplies, something I had already been wondering about myself.
 
I have a question for Ray, when he next visits, as I have just been on his site.

I was wondering why the mod of connecting signal wires from the one chip to the other under the board doesn't get mentioned, I have just read the article by Mauro Penasa.
I assume therefore that his mod is implemented instead.
I know from experience how difficult Thorstens mod is to implement, but which is more effective?
I fancy the challenge of doing it again.
 
Thanks Higlander,
I have actually been already looking back at your posts as your players after they are modded look quite tidy inside compared to others that look quite chaotic. I noticed one of your first posts was asking where to connect up the new power supplies, something I had already been wondering about myself.
Thanks for the kind words timjar. If you look further down on the thread you will noticed that I have found out how the new TXs should be connected. I have already posted wiring diagrams and photos for such. See thread number 19290: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ntz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1929.html#post3469023
 
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So I was busy last night.
I turned this:
IMG_20130507_203623.jpg


into this
IMG_20130507_221436.jpg


And also populated a CFP DOS board while I was at it.
Work in progress:
IMG_20130507_234936.jpg


and my finished version, just waiting for the LM317/LM337 voltage regs:
IMG_20130507_235713.jpg

I have omitted T6, T7, C6, R13, R14, R15 because I'm not using the final stage of the board. I've added little header pins in at T6 and ground so I can easily take the signal for my tube output stage. Can't wait to hear it.

Great boards to work with, really nicely made how the solder points are little solid tubes all the way through the board rather than just thin tracks sitting on top :)

Both were easy enough to make with the exception of the surface mount caps and resistors for the Flea being a little fiddly, but a good soldering iron and a pair of tweezers did the job and I only had to hunt around on the floor on my hands and knees for one of the caps as it went pinging off :p

So I've got a couple more little bits to do to get ready to fit them, but nothing major.
I'm also considering adding the 2 separately so I can get a good feel for what each one does and so there's less opportunities to break something...

I'm struggling a little with the detail of adding the clock directly to the decoder though...
Brent's very helpful list says:
Lift C521 at the dac side and attach a 16.934Mhz clock feed from the dac clock using a buffered output - this clocks the decoder direct
Which sounds easy enough, but I can't find C521 either on my board or in the schematics :confused:
It's quite possible I'm being daft, but it's got me confused... Can anyone help me out with details of exactly how and where they connected a new clock feed for the dac and decoder separately please? I understand the clock supply to the DAC that's quite straightforward. I can see there's a clock output from pin4 of the DAC that goes to pin 13 of the Decoder via RD14 and U193 from what I can make out, but no mention of a capacitor C521 anywhere :confused:
Thanks,
James
 
I'm struggling a little with the detail of adding the clock directly to the decoder though...
Brent's very helpful list says:
Lift C521 at the dac side and attach a 16.934Mhz clock feed from the dac clock using a buffered output - this clocks the decoder direct
Which sounds easy enough, but I can't find C521 either on my board or in the schematics :confused:
It's quite possible I'm being daft, but it's got me confused... Can anyone help me out with details of exactly how and where they connected a new clock feed for the dac and decoder separately please? I understand the clock supply to the DAC that's quite straightforward. I can see there's a clock output from pin4 of the DAC that goes to pin 13 of the Decoder via RD14 and U193 from what I can make out, but no mention of a capacitor C521 anywhere :confused:
Thanks,
James
If you do not see C512 then your PCB is an old version (or not SE or KI). In that case you can lift one leg of RD14 and then feed the 16.xx MHz clock signal to Pin 13 (CRIN) of the decoder via this 100 pf cap (RD14). It should work.
 
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