Are you kidding ?
After more than 18000 posts you should know
thank's for replay! Hm, you're right, so sory for disturb, but any comparasion with the classicals player with TDA1541 audio dac? I know how the CD63SE is one of the first Marantz player what use a diferent dac, an NPC dac.
Adding copper foil to the cables and caps will not help at all. Any screening will need to be earthed to make any difference and you will only partially negate the negative effect you have created with those long leads. It's is better to fix or reduce the root cause rather than create another problem then try not fix it!
You can move the caps much closer to the original positions but it will take a little creative thinking!!! I have previously glued caps to the back plate using hot glue. This means you can get the lead length done to a few cm's and more importantly well away from the signal path area!!!! Also you can fit a large cap pre the 5v reg by working out e space then drilling another hole so it can be mounted on the PCB itself!!!!!!!
This is one I modified and sold on eBay last year. You can do quite a lot without making it look messy ;-)
With respect to decoder, I presume you made changes to the clocking. This can be problematic. Look at Brent's list to chow how he completed the clocking direct to the decoder to help understand. This is one mod, I have never completed.
You can move the caps much closer to the original positions but it will take a little creative thinking!!! I have previously glued caps to the back plate using hot glue. This means you can get the lead length done to a few cm's and more importantly well away from the signal path area!!!! Also you can fit a large cap pre the 5v reg by working out e space then drilling another hole so it can be mounted on the PCB itself!!!!!!!
This is one I modified and sold on eBay last year. You can do quite a lot without making it look messy ;-)
With respect to decoder, I presume you made changes to the clocking. This can be problematic. Look at Brent's list to chow how he completed the clocking direct to the decoder to help understand. This is one mod, I have never completed.
I've done extensive work with both players. I love the TDA and still have several players and DAC's that use it. With the TDA you need to tune up to get the detail and dynamics from it. It has a much warmer character but lacks ultimate clarity until you start to upgrade psu's and play with clocking, bit decoupling, I/v and output stage. With the 63, you have a much more detail but harsher sound. The mods here reign it back in and take the hard cold sound towards the more warm and analogue character but retain that ultimate detail. You are working towards the same nirvana but from two opposite directions. Both can be absolutely superb.
THANKS UV100! Very useful your replay, I agree that the TDA need much more work for the same...nirvana . and corse much easy to work with the newer technology like CD63SE, even my CD5001 from Marantz to. Yes, the same harshes sound when I bought this 5001, and now after mods is really shining!
cd63SE most be more appreciate.
, I agree that the TDA need much more work for the same...nirvana . and corse much easy to work with the newer technology like CD63SE, even my CD5001 from Marantz to. Yes, the same harshes sound when I bought this 5001, and now after mods is really shining!cd63SE most be more appreciate.
@UV101 : Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I can place the big caps in a way as you have suggested. The caps are 30mm dia X 45mm long which are far to big to be placed near to the Tx. I will leave them as they are and see what interference they may have caused to the overall performance before I figure out a better solution.
Regarding the clocking of the DAC the modified circuitry in KI did not work for me and I am thinking of feeding 19.6Mhz signal directly from the independent clock directly to the DAC using a 10pF decoupling cap. Of course I will removed the 100ohm resistor connected to the DAC in its original circuit. I hope this is what Brent has meant.
From your two photos I noticed that you got a small external clock. Did you make it yourself or it is available in the market. It seems that you can use this clock to feed both 19.6 and 8.3 MHz signal to the decoder and servo at the same time.
Regarding the clocking of the DAC the modified circuitry in KI did not work for me and I am thinking of feeding 19.6Mhz signal directly from the independent clock directly to the DAC using a 10pF decoupling cap. Of course I will removed the 100ohm resistor connected to the DAC in its original circuit. I hope this is what Brent has meant.
From your two photos I noticed that you got a small external clock. Did you make it yourself or it is available in the market. It seems that you can use this clock to feed both 19.6 and 8.3 MHz signal to the decoder and servo at the same time.
I can only say when the CD63 has completed its modding you will not believe that the jump in performance is so big.
As a matter of fact I have listened to a heavily modded CD63 made by a friend of mine and TBH the SQ is comparable to his Leema Antila II costing £3000. IMO the CD63 is even more ear friendly because it is so soft/warm and non digital. The vocal is second to none.
I believe all the CDPs can be modded BUT there is no machine that is so easy to strip down and you can easily find a copy of service manual indicating all the details of the entire circuitry including the PCB layout. Unlike modern CDPs where the space are so clamped that makes modifications almost impossible.
If you have doubt to what I had said just buy a 2nd hand CD63 and try some modding yourself.
That is one of my regs/clocks. I had some pcb's made after I proved the design on vero. There is some logic out of shot to divide the clock by 2 for the servo section.
I didn't want the expense of 2 clocks in this player, but as stated by Ricardo, I would definitely recommend using 2 clocks once you get to a certain performance level.
Thanks UV101.
Actually I have purchased a low jitter clock like this and it is on its way to me by post from overseas: 1PPM 16.9344 8.4672 Mhz Low Jitter TCXO Clock Module | eBay
The clock output frequency has 2 different settings and I will use the 16.9Mhz for the decoder and the 8.46 for the servo.
I tried one lasted 6months vintage audio lab job, i did the dac and the servo killed a couple of players till i found it was the clock?? Save up and buy a c2.And you can mount large caps on the psu ive done it with panasonic 22,000 ufs. As ian says you need to drill the pcb.
cheers alan
panasonic tsups from rs £16 aint as good as mundorfs tho
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Mundorf AG snap-in caps are under 8 quid at PCX right now. Limited stocks available. These caps are perfect for the CD63 and you dont need to drill the PCB to fit - just solder about a centimeter length of wire. It helps to remove the remote bus switch that nobody ever uses.
To run 2 clocks, I found it worked well to get a small toroid with dual secondaries and build 2 separate PSUs on one compact board.
To run 2 clocks, I found it worked well to get a small toroid with dual secondaries and build 2 separate PSUs on one compact board.
I tried one lasted 6months vintage audio lab job, i did the dac and the servo killed a couple of players till i found it was the clock?? Save up and buy a c2.And you can mount large caps on the psu ive done it with panasonic 22,000 ufs. As ian says you need to drill the pcb.
cheers alan
panasonic tsups from rs £16 aint as good as mundorfs tho
Or better still get a C3 (or 2)!!!!!lol
Yep the C2 is awesome for this player. You always get what you pay for. Sure the eBay clock will be better than the std set up but they don't quote the important figures. Trust me, the is world of difference between an eBay clock and a C2.
Mundorf AG snap-in caps are under 8 quid at PCX right now. Limited stocks available. These caps are perfect for the CD63 and you dont need to drill the PCB to fit - just solder about a centimeter length of wire. It helps to remove the remote bus switch that nobody ever uses.
To run 2 clocks, I found it worked well to get a small toroid with dual secondaries and build 2 separate PSUs on one compact board.
Yep, that's the way to do it! Single transformer and 2 psu's. will add about £10 to the price with decent components!!!
Hi All,
I finally fixed my CD53 issue. I changed most of the caps in power supply, DAC and opamp section. Now I am planning to replace diodes. Can MUR860 be replaced in D801..804, D811..D814, D851//854, DN01/02? Or What diodes I can go for? I have access to RS components or can get it from partsconnexion, Hificollective or please suggest me any online shop to buy? I dont have access to Mouser or Digikey.
Thanks
Badri
I finally fixed my CD53 issue. I changed most of the caps in power supply, DAC and opamp section. Now I am planning to replace diodes. Can MUR860 be replaced in D801..804, D811..D814, D851//854, DN01/02? Or What diodes I can go for? I have access to RS components or can get it from partsconnexion, Hificollective or please suggest me any online shop to buy? I dont have access to Mouser or Digikey.
Thanks
Badri
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I shop at all those places and they're all good. Just go with whoever can ship you the parts for less, I guess. eBay can be very cost effective for bits and bobs if you are careful who you buy from. If you go with a big store, maybe look ahead at your next mod and combine shipping with something else? RS are good for transformers.
Mundorf AG snap-in caps are under 8 quid at PCX right now. Limited stocks available. These caps are perfect for the CD63 and you dont need to drill the PCB to fit - just solder about a centimeter length of wire. It helps to remove the remote bus switch that nobody ever uses.
To run 2 clocks, I found it worked well to get a small toroid with dual secondaries and build 2 separate PSUs on one compact board.
Cool! Thanks. I get the fleas.
Any reference for building the psu twins: )
Thanks