Some more questions
Is this whole thread realy just about modding the CD63 and 67 models?
How low is low for starting skill levels?
I don't understand a word and have no idea what's under the hood of my 67. It's mystifying compared to tube preamps and amps. Where's the power supply? There aren't any input transformers that I can see.
I think I'll lurk a while before making up my mind.
Thank you all for such a warm welcome.
Mac
Is this whole thread realy just about modding the CD63 and 67 models?
How low is low for starting skill levels?
I don't understand a word and have no idea what's under the hood of my 67. It's mystifying compared to tube preamps and amps. Where's the power supply? There aren't any input transformers that I can see.
I think I'll lurk a while before making up my mind.
Thank you all for such a warm welcome.
Mac
Re: Some more questions
Hi Mac.
Yes its about the CD63/67 with a bit of general Off Topic stuff thrown in!!
If you can solder then that's pretty well all you need - it's all I could do when I started.
If you download the pdf from Ray's site it will tell you all the component refs, along with values of part to be replaced and replacement. The Farnell order codes are there as well.
If you look at the pcb inside the player all refs are clearly marked, and it's mainly just a question of desoldering the old component and replacing with the new.
Do the mods in stages so you can hear the differences, and also so you can narrow it down if you have a problem (dry joints usually)!
The service manual (also on Ray's site, I think) is a great help also, as it shows the underside of the pcb with component refs, making them easier to find.
Like I said, if you can solder and follow a list then you can do it, just take care until you get the hang of it.
Good luck!!
Jim
Frihed89 said:
Hi Mac.
Yes its about the CD63/67 with a bit of general Off Topic stuff thrown in!!
If you can solder then that's pretty well all you need - it's all I could do when I started.
If you download the pdf from Ray's site it will tell you all the component refs, along with values of part to be replaced and replacement. The Farnell order codes are there as well.
If you look at the pcb inside the player all refs are clearly marked, and it's mainly just a question of desoldering the old component and replacing with the new.
Do the mods in stages so you can hear the differences, and also so you can narrow it down if you have a problem (dry joints usually)!
The service manual (also on Ray's site, I think) is a great help also, as it shows the underside of the pcb with component refs, making them easier to find.
Like I said, if you can solder and follow a list then you can do it, just take care until you get the hang of it.
Good luck!!
Jim
Re: Some more questions
Being able to locate part numbers on the PCB, take the player apart and solder in replacement capacitors.
That's as easy as the good modifications get. The hard part is not breaking anything as they're now quite old and also quite fragile.
If your player sits on a rack or similarly suitable support I'd recommend trying 3 hard cones instead of the flimsy plastic feet it comes with.
You can also pop the lid off and apply a sheet of bitumen on this to reduce the ringing. These 2 mods are super easy as they don't involve using a soldering iron.
Simon
Frihed89 said:
Being able to locate part numbers on the PCB, take the player apart and solder in replacement capacitors.
That's as easy as the good modifications get. The hard part is not breaking anything as they're now quite old and also quite fragile.
If your player sits on a rack or similarly suitable support I'd recommend trying 3 hard cones instead of the flimsy plastic feet it comes with.
You can also pop the lid off and apply a sheet of bitumen on this to reduce the ringing. These 2 mods are super easy as they don't involve using a soldering iron.
Simon
I begun to think is there something wrong with my players opamp section, atleast simulation shows its ok but still I have to ask;
After reading about Mauros mod for adding ~200pF capacitor in I/V section I had to go for it and the second OpAmp section values changed in to this: C605/6 1.2nF, R607/8 13k.
So now I dont know if I'm missing some point in this kind of OpAmp arrangement, or is my filter ok?
-Antti
After reading about Mauros mod for adding ~200pF capacitor in I/V section I had to go for it and the second OpAmp section values changed in to this: C605/6 1.2nF, R607/8 13k.
So now I dont know if I'm missing some point in this kind of OpAmp arrangement, or is my filter ok?
-Antti
Hi Andypoynton said:
I am preparing the sregs for the servo and these are based on LM317 with two red leds, and read this:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/
and this:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/regulators2_impedance1_e.html
I now believe that in order to get a lower noise from the 317 I should bypass the red leds (on adj pin) with a big cap.
As I do not have any 220uF cap as suggested, can I use a 120uF PanaFC instead ?
To improve transient response I want to use a 470uF OsCon in the +5v output. Can you comment on this arrangement please as I do not have an osciloscope and so can not "see" the potencial problems.
Best regards
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo. From what I've read and experienced whilst building 317 based regs it is best not to use a low esr cap on the adjust pin. Something with a higher esr is better I think. The Pana fc's are very low esr, I usually use just a standard 220uF elco.
edit: Although in my opinion, it's doubtful you will hear much if any difference in the sound.
Lee.
edit: Although in my opinion, it's doubtful you will hear much if any difference in the sound.
Lee.
Still need help
After a little headphone circuit mod I returned the PCB and the machine will not recognise a disk, service mode says error 12. The ribbon cable looked damaged so replaced it with point to point and the situation has not changed.
What should I do now? Are there any readings? How do I check if Q106 is working?
The sled will move in and out when using the eject button but not from service mode using the cue/review buttons.
After a little headphone circuit mod I returned the PCB and the machine will not recognise a disk, service mode says error 12. The ribbon cable looked damaged so replaced it with point to point and the situation has not changed.
What should I do now? Are there any readings? How do I check if Q106 is working?
The sled will move in and out when using the eject button but not from service mode using the cue/review buttons.
The dynamic impedance of the LEDs is so low there is little benefit in doing this. If you wish to bypass, a regular 10uF cap is quite enough to try.
It's not a great idea to use a very low ESR cap like this. 470uF could leak to a tendency to 'ring' somewhere in the midrange (3Khz), depending on the exact layout and implementation details. This might even be audible as a slight emphasis or colouration when used to power an analogue device (like the analogue half of the dac). However, you might get away with it - trust your ears!
martin clark said:
Thank you Martin
I really would like to use a big cap after the regs because i am experiencing good results using the following combination after the Q811 +5v reg (I replaced the stock one by a LM340AT):
(580000uF Sprague powerlytic+470000uF NEC supercap+3600pF ERO KP1832 5% 1.2kv+2700pF NSF Styrofoam + 3u3 AVX Tantalum) (Very Low combined ESR)
This modd really improves transient response.
Now that I am building a dedicated psu for the servo and as I am placing regs near the servo I will loose the benefits of this combination.
Ricardo
Ricardo,
Such a bulky set up will surely carry some negatives too, so you'll at least be eliminating those. I'm wondering about radiated noise, space used, surge at power up and possibly instability or ringing. I'm no expert but I suspect such huge caps are not purely good here.
With that said my own experience of using large (6800uF) local decoupling caps in the CD63 was positive. 470uF Black Gates were better still, however.
Simon
Such a bulky set up will surely carry some negatives too, so you'll at least be eliminating those. I'm wondering about radiated noise, space used, surge at power up and possibly instability or ringing. I'm no expert but I suspect such huge caps are not purely good here.
With that said my own experience of using large (6800uF) local decoupling caps in the CD63 was positive. 470uF Black Gates were better still, however.
Simon
SimontY said:
The only problem I am registering is high current on power up.... I had to replace the fuses for 2A ones and these still go red on power up.
Even now, if I remove this big cap, I notice a reduction in transient response.
Will this modd (putting sregs near the servo and dac) be able to give me such gains ?
Regards
Ricardo
RCruz said:
I honestly don't know. The biggest (and I mean HUGE) increase in transient attack I ever got was using S Power regulators on my discrete output. It would appear that the discrete stage is very sensitive to the regulator used.
To a lesser extent transients were improved by using an S Power on the DAC. When I put additional 7805s in the change was a bit more vague and across the board, rather than striking.
Another one for attack and dynamics is to use additional transformers.
Simon
Hi SimonSimontY said:
I already have one TX for the opamps (BIG soundstage) and now will place one for the servo.
I already have one sreg on the analog dac and the GND is connected to a central star earth (power comes from U161 "output of C813" and ground to U274 Star earth digital psu) .. and not to a DAC GND.
It works fine but I did not notice a big improvement with this mod (Maybe when I get a dedicated TX for the DAC things will leap)
Now a very important question:
I will feed the sreg input directly from the TX+PSU I am building.
This PSU GND will go to U274 Star earth.
Do you link the Ground (sense) pin of the sreg to a global star earth in the player or do you link those GND to the correspondent GND pin on the servo ?
Regards
Ricardo
My mech is fixed, as though it was the home position switch wich was in bad shape: the plastic base tightened with a small spacer and it's back to life!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
