Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Alright ... I made the two new regulators for the +12v/-12v ... bought some IC feet ... and got down to soldering them in the CD player.

The feet were pretty easy, the regulators ... not so easy.

I checked, checked again and double checked just to be sure I understood what I was doing ... and found a little error in the -12v regulator. So I fixed that ... Hooked everything up and turned it on.

No sound. Alrighty ... PANIC :bigeyes:

I took a look at the +12v regulator and saw that the input and the ouput pin were connected ... letting the full current run though it. It felt hot and smelled burned. WRONG ...

Took it out and put the 7812 back in there ... back was the sound ;)

SO ... tomorrow I'll get me a new LM317 and re-try it :D

I'll make some pictures when they're done ;)
 
Hi guys.

I'm back again with another problem. I tried the servo reclocking as suggested by Brent (thanks for the info on that btw). Unfortunately a broken wire in my 5v regs plonked itself onto the +20v feed.....

.....So I replaced the fried dac and reworked my regs.

Problem is, when I connect 5v into vacant C4 hole (xtal power) and power up the tx starts buzzing. If I power up without the 5v supply connected to c4 it doesn't buzz.

I have checked the regs voltage and it's defo 5v.

Help! Anyone?

Lee.
 
Peter Venema said:
I think that placing the regulators as close as possible to the part it has to feed is the way to go.

I just have relocated the 12V regulators to the empty HDAM space and the sound has become more solid and faster and
a wider soundstage was notable as well.

My head is spinning. This monster thread has amazing info, but the efforts Ray and Rowey have put into the original consolidated pdf's seem to have become diluted in 10 billion alternative ways to kill the proverbial cat... great for you guys that know what you're doing, but for me, it's a 'mare :) If I ever get this right, I might try to consolidate some of the info into a "DIY Audio for complete dummies with pics" pdf.

Anyway, to my Q, which is a simple one. We have built 5 raygulators, 2 x 12V (+/-) and 3 x +5V. This Q is only for the 12V ones.

I first started looking at just putting the 12V Raygulators in the original "drop-in" locations of the 7812 and 7912 (CD67SE btw), like in this pic from Ray back at Post # 1981. Then I started reading and reading and it seems like these ones are "better placed closer to the opamps".

e.g. Peter's comment above and

If I do this, does that mean I REMOVE the 7812 and 7912's at Q801 and Q802 and do what Rowey recommended to Aussie Simon? i.e.

Remove R613-R616. Make a note of which resistor has +12V and -12V. Solder both regs into two of the holes (+/-) at the opamp side of the removed resistors. Then once these are in bridge with some wire from one reg to the appropriate spot so the other opamp can recieve the same voltage IE +12v reg soldered into R613 and then bridged to R614 (solder -ve reg into R616). For now you can use the +/- 20V from C803/C804 and maybe upgrade at a later date. Remove C806 and C805 as these are not used now. Before you switch on I would recommend removing the opamps so when you power it up you can check the voltages with out any damaged caused to them if you have done it wrong. PIN 8 = +12V & PIN 4 = -12V"

(Presumably the same goes for any 7805 regs for the 5V rails). I'll need to ask for details on exactly "how to" do that later (with pics).
 
rowemeister said:

It seems strange the 5v output is ok though,mmmmm can you remove the 5v reg with it still wired to the +20v. Check the 5V track to ground for resistance.
Also when in circuit does the 5v reg get hot

Brent


Checked the 5v track to ground and measured around 200r.

I think the reg does get hot quickly, but I haven't left it powered up long incase it blew something (else).

Update: The buzzing occurs whenever I connect 5v to any part of the dac/decoder circuit. I don't think it's a problem with the regs cos I tried 3 different ones and my 5v invisus...

Could the decoder be fried?

Lee.
 
TDLofCC said:
What are the 7805 with the heatsinks for ?

And is it a good idea to replace them too ?

If you're talking about a 53 or 63, the 7805 powers the DAC, decoder, CPU, front end (RF, HF amp) and servo processor.
The servo amps are unregulated.

If you're talking about a 57 or 67, the rightmost 7805 powers the DAC, decoder/servo processor, CPU and front end. The one on the left powers the servo amps.

The main problem is that there is so much running of one regulator, so replacing it with a better one will not gain you a huge amount. All these ICs 'talk' to each other via their power supply. The best gains are to be had by giving the DAC its own separate regulator. You can go further and have three powering the DAC. One for the digital section, one for the analogue section, and one for the clock buffer. This I recommend.

A chap called Robert Noriega ('Bobwire') did a quick and dirty on how to add extra regulators to a CD67 though he only has one on the DAC.

Bobwire's CD67 write-up

Here's a neat way of using LM317 regulators but can also be applied to 7805s. Shown is the clock gate regulator (courtesy of Martin Clark's excellent website.)

LM317
 
Stubborn guy...

Malefoda said:
Hi there!

First, I've now a gain at my Hphones opamp of... 1! So It's almot useless here, is it ok to remove all? I mean bypass all hphones pcb (and remove stuff) and wire from C901/C902 (removed) to J901. Then may C980 be upgraded for sound?

Second, we have an exclusive Nora Jones performance on one of our biggest radio here, I'll try to record it at CD's PCM specs. Does some want it?

Thanks for hphones answer ;)

So any advices for my headphones amp? It's a now and then use, so I think there's right now no need of a real headphones amp, but I want to make a good use of the CD53's one.

Thanks.

note: the Jones' performance was very nice, and on the web you can find Krall has done the same at Studio 104 from this radio.
 
Cheers, that was a nice read.
But I think I'll leave that alone for now.

Bookmarked it, to perhaps try it out after I did the more simple mods.

I also did the remove mute/headphones mod.

Last thing I want to do now is remove some more components, and replace some with better components. Then I'm just gonna listen for awhile ;)

And take a good hard look at my PM66SE ... and probalby upgrade moste capacitators with Black Gate ones. That should improve sound quality some more :)

Glenn2 said:


If you're talking about a 53 or 63, the 7805 powers the DAC, decoder, CPU, front end (RF, HF amp) and servo processor.
The servo amps are unregulated.

If you're talking about a 57 or 67, the rightmost 7805 powers the DAC, decoder/servo processor, CPU and front end. The one on the left powers the servo amps.

The main problem is that there is so much running of one regulator, so replacing it with a better one will not gain you a huge amount. All these ICs 'talk' to each other via their power supply. The best gains are to be had by giving the DAC its own separate regulator. You can go further and have three powering the DAC. One for the digital section, one for the analogue section, and one for the clock buffer. This I recommend.

A chap called Robert Noriega ('Bobwire') did a quick and dirty on how to add extra regulators to a CD67 though he only has one on the DAC.

Bobwire's CD67 write-up

Here's a neat way of using LM317 regulators but can also be applied to 7805s. Shown is the clock gate regulator (courtesy of Martin Clark's excellent website.)

LM317
 
Help needed!

Beside the headphone question, it seems there's a problem...
Few times before I had some flat cable to mech problems, I've just pushed it out and back, then it starts again.
Few time after I still had some short "screeechhh" for maybe one second and then goes on playing the CD. I tought it was still the flat cable going weak and let it go. Now there's a real problem: no way to listen to a CD till the end: it stops at anytime.
When it stops and press play again it won't spin. When cut mains for a while it starts again for a while. Right now I've shaked the f*****g flat cable again and it's playing in repeat mode for a couple of hours with succes. Is it the cable near death? Or worst...
 
Spent another night "tinkering" with the CD67SE :)

I did some more removing and replacing. Tested after every thing I did, so after I thought I was done I slid it all back in the casing.

Final test before the hood goes on ... no sound ... I think I either still have faulty regulators ... or I scratched the underside near the big blue power transformator ... because it suddenly smelled burny and it felt hot.

So I took out the regulators and put the 7812 and 7912 back in there, and the sound returned (thank god ;))

I think I'm just going to leave the regulators out for now. Last thing to do is replace the opamps. And in a later stadium replace the clock with the Flea (I mailed acoustica for new PCBs ;))

Testing on my system downstairs will have to wait till tomorrow. I'm dead tires :p
 
Re: Help needed!

Malefoda said:
Beside the headphone question, it seems there's a problem...
Few times before I had some flat cable to mech problems, I've just pushed it out and back, then it starts again.
Few time after I still had some short "screeechhh" for maybe one second and then goes on playing the CD. I tought it was still the flat cable going weak and let it go. Now there's a real problem: no way to listen to a CD till the end: it stops at anytime.
When it stops and press play again it won't spin. When cut mains for a while it starts again for a while. Right now I've shaked the f*****g flat cable again and it's playing in repeat mode for a couple of hours with succes. Is it the cable near death? Or worst...

It played the same CD all the night.
Changed to another one, ok, then a new one: suddenly stops and needs to be switched off for a minute before starts again.
Any idea?
Thanks
 
Originally posted by jimh0612
I've just been searching this thread for related laser topics (DOH!!) and found some questions by Brent.
I've checked and got the following readings:-
Q501 0/4.92/0
Q502 4.24/4.92/4.88
R505 4.92/5.05
R501 and R502 both 464 ohms
I am also reading +13.4v on pin2 and -13.4v on pin 9 of Q105 and Q106.
Does this mean that Q501 has blown and if so would that give me the symptoms I described?

Ignore those for now, with the laser doing what its doing the base of Q501 probably wont get the desired voltage.

The red wire (U310) is 9.6V ac to FH12 (fuse). This supplies the -10V to the servo driver ics. And this would cause the fault you have.

Brent

checked ac voltages from the tranny as follows wrt the star nearby
U305 14v
U306 16.4v
U307 33.6v
U308 9.7v
U309 0v
U310 9.6v
U311 0v
U312 0v
C801 0v
C802 16.3v

Would any of this fit with what you thought?
Sorry about the delay but been busy at work.
 
Malefoda said:
New clues about my mech, some CDs are red with no problem, some will stop soon or later, making the mech faulty ( can't focus anymore ) and need some switch off for maybe 1 minute.
Life's strange, I'll get a flea now that... my CDP is dying :'(


No more sure of anything... It seems some CDs can be red for hours, but it seems also it stops randomly... at least when hot.
What can make the focus fail and suddenly stop when warm?
What my I check when the mechs stuck?

Thanks, I'll die very soon under such stress!! ( So yes AVR, I'll stop soon moddin' )
 
Matthieu,

It sounds like a problem you might not be able to fix easily yourself, such as laser adjustment or a bad laser. Or maybe dried and hardened grease needs cleaning from the moving parts in the mech. Have you checked this?

(I must say that last suggestion doesn't seem likely as that problem is supposed to be reduced when warm, not the opposite.)

I had a problem with the disc cutting out sometimes and this was actually fixed by doing the coax mod for the HF signal. It has not happened since (months). Do you feel confident to do the coax mod accurately/neatly?

Simon
 
Malefoda said:



No more sure of anything... It seems some CDs can be red for hours, but it seems also it stops randomly... at least when hot.
What can make the focus fail and suddenly stop when warm?
What my I check when the mechs stuck?

Thanks, I'll die very soon under such stress!! ( So yes AVR, I'll stop soon moddin' )

I'm almost certain this is the connector between the main pcb and the cd mech pcb. I've seen this loads of times, the ribbon its self will be ok as the actual socket usually fails. Measuring continuity will show no faults either. The push in type are worse for this than the type that has the clamp bar.

Brent