As suggested you should go to post one and have read,download a schematic and study it. we are all here to help,We all started with a hope we could make it better.
regards alan
Hi alan i have had a read its this stupid external power supply thats causing me problems at the moment i down loaded the wireing diagram from rays page but still dont really understand it all. Most of the upgrades were its just a matter of swoping components with better ones is fine
Can anyone tell from the pics i have posted what the external is powering and what would have to be done to reverse it. Or if anyone can see were the white wire as come from. I should say that the phono socket that should be fastened to the board was discanected by the person who added the external power supply. So could that be why it had the white wire connected to the ground plain on the board
Hey, I assumed it was powering the op-amps but it appears that it's not from your pic of the underside. Sorry about that. I'm only familiar with the CD63, so I can't say off the top of my head but it looks like it's providing DC to two 3-pin regulators.
I think the white wire was just soldered to the top screen.
I think the white wire was just soldered to the top screen.
Hi bull,
That's one messy player... Looks like that socket is powering Q811 and Q871, right? Those are the two regulators on the heatsinks, and they are 5V regs. You should remove the brown and blue wires and power them from the board as it originally was, by re-installing the wire jumpers that were removed.
I can see from your photo's that U268 is gone, near C813. This feeds Q811, just follow the copper trace on the board and you'll see it runs right to the point where the brown wire is connected.
It's difficult to see, but I think U264 is also gone. That one feeds Q871. If you re-install these two jumpers, it should be working again. Hope this helps
Regards,
Ray
That's one messy player... Looks like that socket is powering Q811 and Q871, right? Those are the two regulators on the heatsinks, and they are 5V regs. You should remove the brown and blue wires and power them from the board as it originally was, by re-installing the wire jumpers that were removed.
I can see from your photo's that U268 is gone, near C813. This feeds Q811, just follow the copper trace on the board and you'll see it runs right to the point where the brown wire is connected.
It's difficult to see, but I think U264 is also gone. That one feeds Q871. If you re-install these two jumpers, it should be working again. Hope this helps
Regards,
Ray
Hooray for Ray, once again! Presumably this means he can completely forget about the external PSU for the time being? Those Mundorf caps should be a nice little upgrade. With HDAM bypassed and op-amps changed, perhaps upgrading the filter caps to polystyrene or silver mica would be a next logical step?
Hi bull,
That's one messy player... Looks like that socket is powering Q811 and Q871, right? Those are the two regulators on the heatsinks, and they are 5V regs. You should remove the brown and blue wires and power them from the board as it originally was, by re-installing the wire jumpers that were removed.
I can see from your photo's that U268 is gone, near C813. This feeds Q811, just follow the copper trace on the board and you'll see it runs right to the point where the brown wire is connected.
It's difficult to see, but I think U264 is also gone. That one feeds Q871. If you re-install these two jumpers, it should be working again. Hope this helps
Regards,
Hi thanks for help. I agree this player is a right mess i was thinking about getting another player and starting again doing the mods in order as thay should be done. Seems like the bloke who had this one as just chucked any big caps he find in the player wether bad quality or not. I will get the player tried now to make sure the caps i have changed work ok then i will get down to to reinstalling the origonal power supply
Ray
Hi ben i have 6 of the rubycons 470 uf left i might use them somewere on the board
Still lurking around here, and stepping in when in dire straits
The Mundorfs are ok for the opamp supply, they are a bit large physically though. I would suggest some more filter tweaking yes (with polystyrenes being my personal favorites), and of course a good clock! (Flea, Flea, Flea...)
Ok, good luck with this, if you have any more questions just ask. By the looks of it, these two jumpers are all there's to it. I hope that reg near the DAC is still properly connected.
No, the large caps are connected to the opamp supply, but the socket runs to the two 5V regs.
Ray
I think the white wire was soldered to the grd plane, but the PS was not a split rail?
Hi uv yes still useing external power supply got the mundorfs in and rubycons on opamps and its made a big improvement the bass sounds more fuller and natural image as improved aswell. Been offered a trichord clock and power supply at a good price should i go for it or make improvments in other areas first
lol@ ian
A few beers (man after my own heart) nice to see ray still lurking big family us cd 63 modders keep up the good work
cheers alan
A few beers (man after my own heart) nice to see ray still lurking big family us cd 63 modders keep up the good work
cheers alan
Is anyone using rhem sorbothane feet are thay any good are oak ones better