Ian's post had UK links to Rubycon:
My post had a link to Hi-Fi Collective, which is UK. PCX has a range of shipping options so double check before you order though. 40% off Mundorf caps could be a fair chunk of cash if you're buying several. My player contains 7, and will soon have 12!
My post had a link to Hi-Fi Collective, which is UK. PCX has a range of shipping options so double check before you order though. 40% off Mundorf caps could be a fair chunk of cash if you're buying several. My player contains 7, and will soon have 12!
Ian's post had UK links to Rubycon:
My post had a link to Hi-Fi Collective, which is UK. PCX has a range of shipping options so double check before you order though. 40% off Mundorf caps could be a fair chunk of cash if you're buying several. My player contains 7, and will soon have 12!
Thanks ben are thay the 22000uf 40v. Im mainly trying to get a smother more detailed top end at moment but i dont think the external power supply is helping matters
Its ok ben found the 25v ones how many of these will my player need as im getting the rubycons for opamps got about £100 to spend what other caps should i be ordering and how many. Sorry for all questions
Ok ben thanks for the help looks like i will have to order the rubycons from rs as that place that sells the mundorf dont sell rubycons. Are the blackgates any good for the opamps
Black Gates are awesome for the op-amps, although it's a matter of taste which ones. I like the N series best there out of the ones I've tried, but others like the standard series. Good luck finding the genuine article for less than a couple of kidneys though. I'd go with the newer Rubycons if I were you.
Last edited:
Ok ben thanks again will order the mundorfs and rubycons then. Then i will have to see if i can make a 12v power supply
I see people going for these metal can op amps. Do they really offer an improvement to the non metal can varieties? The only difference I can see is the shielding. Would this make an audible difference?
I know the only way to know is to buy both variants and try them but I don't want to spend the money as the HA are expensive. And I'd rather buy some decent caps or the like.
I know the only way to know is to buy both variants and try them but I don't want to spend the money as the HA are expensive. And I'd rather buy some decent caps or the like.
I see people going for these metal can op amps. Do they really offer an improvement to the non metal can varieties? The only difference I can see is the shielding. Would this make an audible difference?
I know the only way to know is to buy both variants and try them but I don't want to spend the money as the HA are expensive. And I'd rather buy some decent caps or the like.
Hi have tried a few and i think the screened ha ones sound the best
Hi to all
From another tread I read a post from Ergo where he stated that there is a lot of crap outside the audio band in the output of the CD67 DACs. I remember to measure a PWM signal in the DAC with five Volts amplitude and five MegaHertz, which arrive at the operational amplifier (OK.... an integrated Op Amp or a HDAM but still an operational amplifier) after a simple RC filter, which does not eliminate the 5 MHz signal.
I do not like the idea of having this .3 Volt (after the RC) in the differential inputs..... with the delays of the circuit and the high gain of the Op Amps there will be a lot of inter modulation.
Does anyone has a good approach for this?
Thanks
From another tread I read a post from Ergo where he stated that there is a lot of crap outside the audio band in the output of the CD67 DACs. I remember to measure a PWM signal in the DAC with five Volts amplitude and five MegaHertz, which arrive at the operational amplifier (OK.... an integrated Op Amp or a HDAM but still an operational amplifier) after a simple RC filter, which does not eliminate the 5 MHz signal.
I do not like the idea of having this .3 Volt (after the RC) in the differential inputs..... with the delays of the circuit and the high gain of the Op Amps there will be a lot of inter modulation.
Does anyone has a good approach for this?
Thanks
I noticed there is a modded CD63 in the UK eBay and may be you can consider this rather than doing all the major mods by your own. You can change other better caps if you wish at a later stage.Hi have tried a few and i think the screened ha ones sound the best
Depends who did the modding and how neat they were. I wouldn't recommend anyone making any further changes to some of the machines that I've modded in the past
Pete
Basically I agree with you. BUT there is no harm just to swap some of the caps that are of higher quality. Of course more extensive modifications by unskilled hands could do more HARM than GOODDepends who did the modding and how neat they were. I wouldn't recommend anyone making any further changes to some of the machines that I've modded in the past
Pete
Depends who did the modding and how neat they were. I wouldn't recommend anyone making any further changes to some of the machines that I've modded in the past
Pete
Lol. Some of my early ones fall into the same category too! Fortunately I've learned from my mistakes and the ones I do now are far far better!!!
That KI on eBay has some of Brent's work, but I'd say looking at it, it's also got some "other" stuff done that's not part of the original upgrade he did.
@UV101: Good observation and I noticed that there is a remark at the end of the description that some of the works were not carried out by Brent
Didn't notice that comment in the listing.
Looking at it again, I'd say come caps on the board, C2 clock, clock psu and spowers are all Brent's work. The untidy stuff, long wires caps on vero etc are not.
I thinks it's a bit of a liberty claiming a professional upgrade. At the very least it devalues Brent's work.
I list players I've done a couple of times a year and mine look immaculate compared to that!!!! I wonder why there is vero attached to the spowers on for the audio power??????
Assuming the additional work hasn't cocked things up, it will be good. I know of I was asked to look at it, I'd strip the crappy work out and start adding properly on top on Brent's work!!!
Looking at it again, I'd say come caps on the board, C2 clock, clock psu and spowers are all Brent's work. The untidy stuff, long wires caps on vero etc are not.
I thinks it's a bit of a liberty claiming a professional upgrade. At the very least it devalues Brent's work.
I list players I've done a couple of times a year and mine look immaculate compared to that!!!! I wonder why there is vero attached to the spowers on for the audio power??????
Assuming the additional work hasn't cocked things up, it will be good. I know of I was asked to look at it, I'd strip the crappy work out and start adding properly on top on Brent's work!!!
TBH I have no idea on Brent's original upgrade work but from those photos I can agree with you that the layout and wiring could have been done better. Like you I have no idea on the actual use of the vero
My workmanship is not that good when compare with yours but at least I will do my best to make them tidy and good looking which you can judge from some of my uploaded photos
To be fair, it does look like there are multiple regs on that vero at the front and although its not that tidy, it will be better. Even lots of std 7805's will be better than 1 single one!!! Did this a few years ago in a Philips cd850 mki
I think that's 11 regs on the dac board lol!!
I'm not sure about all that screening tho. Why not just connect it to the top layer screen rare than wire all round the player.
I think that's 11 regs on the dac board lol!!
I'm not sure about all that screening tho. Why not just connect it to the top layer screen rare than wire all round the player.