Phew, just the fuses then.
I'm glad to be of help! Good to hear it's running again Quan!
Ray
Yes, it is good to see the patient is recovered from butchered surgery.
Do you have any suggestions to fix up the display ribbon connector ? Mine is detached from the blue plastic backing adhesive that guide it along into the pcb.
Do you think it is a good idea to reglue with superglue?
Quan
Yes, you can use a few tiny drops of superglue to fix it back on. But make sure it doesn't spread across the contacts. These connectors are not made for so much extractions...
You can use a needle or a pin to bend the contacts of the board header slightly inwards, to restore the contact pressure. Another option is to reverse the ribbon cable. Remove the display PCB and use the repaired side at the display side. This way, you have a 'fresh' new end to insert in the main board.
If that doesn't help, and the contacts are too worn, you may try to find a new one on e-Bay.
Ray
You can use a needle or a pin to bend the contacts of the board header slightly inwards, to restore the contact pressure. Another option is to reverse the ribbon cable. Remove the display PCB and use the repaired side at the display side. This way, you have a 'fresh' new end to insert in the main board.
If that doesn't help, and the contacts are too worn, you may try to find a new one on e-Bay.
Ray
Thanks Ray , i will try.
My heart is on my mouth everytime i am doing a mod.
I am still to reclock the servo , and putting new power supply to the DOS.
Quan.
Ok... so here you have some tips: modding an old Marantz CDP requires quite good soldering / desoldering aptitudes. Always keep your iron clean and hot enough. Use a good fluid and solder. Always use a magnifying glass and take your time before you do any action... ponderation is the key here. If you mess up, the Team will help so ... No fear.
PS: beware of the white ribbon connectors. I opened a big hole under the CDP case so I could work on the pcb without having to dismantle everything and disconnect those ribbons.. Best to replace them with good "discrete" wires.
PS: beware of the white ribbon connectors. I opened a big hole under the CDP case so I could work on the pcb without having to dismantle everything and disconnect those ribbons.. Best to replace them with good "discrete" wires.
CFP DOS
Hi everyone. I've been experimenting with bypassing caps in the analog PSU and on the lm4562 opamps I use.
I removed the X7R bypassing caps in the PSU but the opamp bypass caps did a good job for me. With them the player is sounding more bright and airy,in a subtle way, than without. I use a Wima filmcap of 220n/63V between pin 4 and 8 and I replaced the original Elna cerafine elcos with the four Elna Silmic dc-blocking caps I removed earlier (C655..C658).
I want to give it a try to build Ray's DOS ... and use it first inside a Behringer SRC2496. If it doesn't work out, then I can always upgrade my CD63KI with it. I'd like to upgrade the Behringer with a good output stage and I am inspired by what Lucasz Fikus reported on his site. There are also good reports on diyaudio about using audiotransfomers directly on the chip's outputs, but I prefer an active output stage.
The Behringer has an AKM4393 DAC chip, which has on-chip a switched-capacitor filter on the analog output. Theoretically I think it doesn't need further passive filtering (reading the datasheet) and I was wondering if I indeed can skip the filter part of the CFP DOS and wire directly to the differential amplifier. And if I can, what would the right values of R9 and R10 then be? I'm really a newbie in this area and I don't wanna blow things...
I can fit a 2x12V/15VA torroid inside the enlosure. Would that be enough to feed the outputstage?
It would be nice to hear what you guys think of my ideas with the AKM chip in combination with the CFP DOS. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone. I've been experimenting with bypassing caps in the analog PSU and on the lm4562 opamps I use.
I removed the X7R bypassing caps in the PSU but the opamp bypass caps did a good job for me. With them the player is sounding more bright and airy,in a subtle way, than without. I use a Wima filmcap of 220n/63V between pin 4 and 8 and I replaced the original Elna cerafine elcos with the four Elna Silmic dc-blocking caps I removed earlier (C655..C658).
I want to give it a try to build Ray's DOS ... and use it first inside a Behringer SRC2496. If it doesn't work out, then I can always upgrade my CD63KI with it. I'd like to upgrade the Behringer with a good output stage and I am inspired by what Lucasz Fikus reported on his site. There are also good reports on diyaudio about using audiotransfomers directly on the chip's outputs, but I prefer an active output stage.
The Behringer has an AKM4393 DAC chip, which has on-chip a switched-capacitor filter on the analog output. Theoretically I think it doesn't need further passive filtering (reading the datasheet) and I was wondering if I indeed can skip the filter part of the CFP DOS and wire directly to the differential amplifier. And if I can, what would the right values of R9 and R10 then be? I'm really a newbie in this area and I don't wanna blow things...
I can fit a 2x12V/15VA torroid inside the enlosure. Would that be enough to feed the outputstage?
It would be nice to hear what you guys think of my ideas with the AKM chip in combination with the CFP DOS. Thanks in advance!
Hi,
The AK4393 does need an analog output filter, see page 18 of the datasheet. The stopband attenuation is only 75dB, so some extra filtering is welcome. The suggested filter has a -3dB frequency of 70kHz, so you can use the DOS-CFP version for the SA8400, it has almost the same curve. The output voltage will be a bit lower, but that can be solved by raising the emitter resistors R9/R10 to 1k.
Regards,
Ray
The AK4393 does need an analog output filter, see page 18 of the datasheet. The stopband attenuation is only 75dB, so some extra filtering is welcome. The suggested filter has a -3dB frequency of 70kHz, so you can use the DOS-CFP version for the SA8400, it has almost the same curve. The output voltage will be a bit lower, but that can be solved by raising the emitter resistors R9/R10 to 1k.
Regards,
Ray
Check the remote batteries!!!!
Yeh ,that was the first thing that i check as well.
was thinking about that ribbon connect to the display board . The contact with IR side could be bad?
Quan.
I have been checking on ebay. There are certainly similar types but not exact number of pins- the closest was 40pins type. Not sure about the spacing btw the pins.
I took a quick look on Charles Hyde & Son's site and they don't have them, but on an unrelated note - they do have CD63KI toroids - I thought those were hard to get? Sharing in case anyone's interested. CHS - replacement remote controls, instruction manuals, audio & video accessories, electronic components & spare parts