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Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list
Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list
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Old 22nd February 2014, 06:32 PM   #20111
charas is offline charas  Greece
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Originally Posted by Ben Hanke View Post
Hmm... I can't promise it, not knowing what you are hearing. I sometime A/B between the same albums playing simultaneously on my CD63 and turntable by swapping inputs. The difference in resolution and dynamic capability is clear, but there is no harshness. I've had that before, but that was because of 'bugs' in my mods at that time that were later resolved.

You swapped op-amps to LM4562, right? Did you tag a small (0.1uF) film cap across the power pins for stability?
Yes they are 4562 and no i haven't 0.1uf across power pins...is that important?

You added regs direct to the chip supplies?
Yes i did.
Do you have adequate post-reg local decoupling? (e.g. 470uF).
No i haven't apart the ones are allready on board on same track rail and they aren't 470uf nor they are all exist.

What kind of op-amp power caps are you using? I found that rolling those made a big difference. Black Gate N were my favourites there, but they are out of production now. If you enjoy building things, there's always the DOS!
Today i try some ERO 100UF 35V 125 degrees celcious to see how it go.Not heard theM yet.BG not available any more plus silly prices.What is the DOS?

If you're willing to invest the time to go forward (or back - there's no shame there) then I think you have a chance to achieve a level of performance that will surprise you and won't always make you want to turn it off and switch to vinyl.

At the end of the day, it's all just fun (or a rollercoaster of elation and angst if that's your bag).
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Old 22nd February 2014, 07:03 PM   #20112
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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- LM4562 cap - I think it might be necessary for stability, dependent on other factors. I don't recall running without one for long. It goes diagonally between the +\- pins (4 and 8?). Under the board works.

- Op-amp power caps - I'm not familiar with ERO, but this is a very critical position for choice of cap. I wouldn't worry too much about a high temperature rating in this application, just nice audio caps. I think the KI used Cerafines there, or was it Silmics?

- DAC power decoupling is also a critical position for choice of cap. A lot of people use Sanyo OSCONs on the digital. I use BG NX. The DAC analogue supply decoupling is also very influential on the sound. The power supply to those pins directly affects the output. I prefer BG FK there. I think Rubycon ZA are a popular choice? (Help me out, guys)

I would say it's pretty vital to have good quality, decent sized caps after those regulators. Definitely get that sorted before looking at changing transformers around, as they just slow you down. You won't make the player sound worse by giving the DAC and op-amps a smoother supply with bigger and better caps).
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Old 22nd February 2014, 07:24 PM   #20113
charas is offline charas  Greece
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Ben,mine had cerafine and i say to give a try on other brand.I use to had cerafine's on a kathode of a tube and the sound was harsh and thin.I did replace them with BC Philips and i see the ...light.Ok,different position different aplication...but who knows.
I don't have rubycon's at hand,i only have some BG FK 100uf and 220uf 16 and 50volt.They are not good for the regulators..... aren't they, plus that the 220uf are huge.So i better order some Rubycon zla form ebay then.
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Old 22nd February 2014, 07:45 PM   #20114
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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BG FK 16v 220uF would probably be great for op-amp power or DAC analogue decoupling.
Check the voltage on the op-amps though - might need to be higher.
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Old 23rd February 2014, 05:37 AM   #20115
charas is offline charas  Greece
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Ben,BG 220uf are 50v rating they are huge and i only have 3 pieces.BG 100uf 16v i have 4 pieces.Which ones to use?
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Old 23rd February 2014, 08:37 AM   #20116
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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I would probably put two 220uF BGs on DAC analogue decoupling and the four 100uF on the op-amps. Maybe wait for a second opinion though... I'm not sure if 16v is enough headroom.
If you don't have a cap after any of your regs then I recommend putting one in.

DOS stands for Discrete Output Stage

It's a PCB that Ray designed to replace the op-amp output stage and filter in the CD63/67 and other models.
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Last edited by Ben Hanke; 23rd February 2014 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 23rd February 2014, 09:53 AM   #20117
charas is offline charas  Greece
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Put 0.1 100v red wima cap on 4,8 pin of lm4562, left it burn in over knight.Well this morning it was the worst sound i have heard from cd-63.Sound became much smaller and dool.
Also change the red decupling cerafines for the op-amps with other brands....test with the wima on and without wima's.My opinion...DON'T touch the cerafines...i haven't try BG yet.Will see.
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Old 23rd February 2014, 11:00 AM   #20118
esgigt is offline esgigt  Netherlands
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Originally Posted by Ben Hanke View Post
I would probably put two 220uF BGs on DAC analogue decoupling and the four 100uF on the op-amps. Maybe wait for a second opinion though... I'm not sure if 16v is enough headroom.
If you don't have a cap after any of your regs then I recommend putting one in.

DOS stands for Discrete Output Stage

It's a PCB that Ray designed to replace the op-amp output stage and filter in the CD63/67 and other models.
The 16V caps might be a bit thight. the rail voltage is usually 15 to 17 volts in cd players in general. If I were you, I'd buy a couple of 25V (or higher) caps to de-couple the opamps or lower the rail voltage to 12V.

Using the 220uf caps on the analog de-coupling of the DAC is a good idea imho.
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Old 23rd February 2014, 04:28 PM   #20119
higlander is offline higlander  United Kingdom
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Put 0.1 100v red wima cap on 4,8 pin of lm4562, left it burn in over knight.Well this morning it was the worst sound i have heard from cd-63.Sound became much smaller and dool.
I used 0.25uF MKP and it makes the SQ smooth.

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Originally Posted by charas View Post
Also change the red decupling cerafines for the op-amps with other brands....test with the wima on and without wima's.My opinion...DON'T touch the cerafines...i haven't try BG yet.Will see.
Try Rubycon 470uF ZLG or ZLH they are cheap and good smoothing caps for opamps. Also change the orange caps (120pF) with MKPs. They make a difference.
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Old 24th February 2014, 03:13 AM   #20120
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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That doesn't seem right to me. I know I always go to this, but maybe you have a bad joint or broken pad somewhere that is getting disturbed when you remove the board.
I don't think that cap should've produced that result.
Please someone with LM4562 back me up.
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