Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

New to the machine

Hi there..

Just bought one of these giant machines - a standard 63' for $30. Guess that's ok.

The only problem is some kind of oscillation, mechanically, in the transport. It can be heard if I press pause and I'm on track 1 or 2. If I'm on one of the last tracks, I can't hear it. It's round 500Hz.

When the CDP is cold the sound is worst. It also skips when it's cold, but only when it's cold. I have done the drive cleaning, both the optics and the mechanics.

If I touch the steel rod guiding the laser with the tip of a small screwdriver (through the small square hole in top of the transport) the sound disapers. Wheter this cures the skipping I don't know.

"Leave it on" your might say, hmm, but what's causing the problem?

Scince there's nothing to ajust beside laser power, I'm wondering - is it a worn out transport?

Anyone?
 
having repaired hundreds of marantz and philips with this cdm12 transport I can at least cure one problem now. :)

Remove the transport from the mech, now remove the laser.
Clean off all the white grease(probably now yellow, and if it is yellow thats bad) from everywhere including the laser.

These players suffer from that grease getting hard, it softens with heat so that probably why it skips from cold (laser can not track properly with the hard grease).

The really yellow/orange grease is caused by smoke.

Touching the guide bar should not cause or stop hum.

Check every earth in the player etc.

$30 is good not even considering you can make this a really good player.
 
rowemeister said:
It is a possibility the servo is strugling with the laser.:xeye:

It certainly wont help.

But if noise like hum can be heard and when touching metal parts either helps or makes the noise worse its usually some kind of earth/ground problem.

Ground is very important especially in audio, one of the reasons KI stuff has a copper chassis

Just to make myself clear, the hum is mechanical - NOT comming through the signal path, but out of the drive.

It will hum more when it's cold (combined with the skipping), so something 'bout the servo strugling with the laser could sound plausible. But then - what to do? If I lay my finger on the transport I can REMOVE the hun, ie. it is mechanical.

I'll clean the transport completly tomorrow. And yes, it has been living in a smokers house, so the grease is both orange and brown - yak.
 
sorry miss understood, but still clean that grease.

I can 99% clear this up too :D

Put some blue tack or hot glue on the disc clamp @ the top.
Make sure it is flat and even.

This was a marantz recall back in the day!!

Its resonance due to the small weight in the clamp. The marantz/philips cure was a clamp with a bigger metal weight.

Blue tack or hot glue will cure this problem. ;)
 
rowemeister said:
sorry miss understood, but still clean that grease.

I can 99% clear this up too :D

Put some blue tack or hot glue on the disc clamp @ the top.
Make sure it is flat and even.

This was a marantz recall back in the day!!

Its resonance due to the small weight in the clamp. The marantz/philips cure was a clamp with a bigger metal weight.

Blue tack or hot glue will cure this problem. ;)

I will - right away. Any i'll post my result.

TIA.
 
Been tinkering with my CD67 PCB today, also put some 0805 SMD caps on the DAC there. I found some really small 100n caps (0603) in the drawer, they fit perfectly between two pins, so I added one on the digital supply-pin too.

Did any of you find CD's yet that are now unlistenable? I have some CD's that I used to like, but since the players are upgraded they started to annoy me. The sound is unpleasant if you listen to it for a longer period of time. Must be the recording that's bad.

I also don't like the sound of Copy Controlled CD's. I have two versions of a Norah Jones CD, one is an earlier release and the second a newer one that is now copy controlled. I like the first one better.
I did a test with the latest Coldplay CD that's also copy controlled. I ripped it in secure mode with EAC and I find the copy sounds better! :eek:

Ray.
 

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HDAM bypass

I've just bypassed my hDAMs. A definite winner this one.

More detail and space around instruments; better soundstage with more height and width.
Basically, its just more transparent, it seems a couple of layers of veils have gone.

There might be a 'but' though; I'm not sure yet, but bass slam and dynamics may be a bit reduced - I need more time (and the mrs out of the way:D ) before I'm sure.
Regardless, this mod's a keeper.

Next up is the separation of analogue and digital 5v supplies, and looking at the opamp power supply. Local regs at 17volts I think.

ATB
 
All this talk about HDAM has got me curious now.
I have a CD6000 I want to modify. Can soemone advise if this is good.

LM6172 opamp upgrade. These are much better to my ears than stock, adn I cant justify cost of buying lots of opamps to test.

Tent labs XO clock. Clock output will reclock the Digital filter and both DACs.

Upgrade DAC and reciever digital decoupling caps with 180uF oscons from 470 elna stargets. Replace resistors with 1mH 14 ohm inductors.

All other decoupling caps replaced with 220uF silmic II, which are a real pain to find! And replace resitors with chokes.


The next step is to beef up supplies, One transformer 2 X 9 V for digital supplies. One winding is shunt supply for XO clock and DAC clock rail. The other winding is digital 5V rail. Is it OK to use one transformer for both these digital supplies?

The next step will be 12V torroidal, this will just 7912 and 7812 for opamps and HDAM. I will also take a feed of +12V and run a 7805 for the analog dac rail.

What I am quite curious about is the HDAM mod people seem to be rating. How can I do this with my 6000? I figure its not easy, but I had another idea. Is it possible to take balanced feed from each of the opamps output per channel, and feed them into a xformer and get a balanced signal out? If so are there any mods I will need to do and what sort of transformer should I use for this.

regards Arthur