Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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Brakspear75

Member
Joined 2014
Just a quick update on my mains filter issue - after trying several different combinations and lots of listening I found both the common mode choke and the Y class caps to earth degraded the sound. I've now just got the first X class cap and discharge resistor across the line, the rest has been removed. It's sounding good, dynamics are back:)

I will also be putting in an earth-loop breaker circuit to stop any noise getting in this way just in case.

I found an article that suggested that using a common mode choke was not recommended unless the rectifier diodes were fast switching types; ordinary diodes might overheat. If I can find the reference again I'll post the link - anyone know why this might happen?
 
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madis64

Member
Joined 2015
Hello guys,

first of all - many thanks for this thread, I have managed to read most of it (scout's honour ;-) ).

Now a simple question - what should be considered a standard temperature of a LM317/377 regulator when the unit is powered but idle (no cd inserted)?

I have put in the LM-s and they are "finger-tip hot".

Madis
 
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Puffin

Member
Joined 2006
What is "finger tip hot"? Do you mean that they are no hotter than your own finger tip, or that they are hot when you put your finger tip on the regulator. What is hot? Is it as hot as boiling water or a tap that says "Caution - Very Hot Water", or as hot as a hot drink that you put to your lips and think "Oooh that is too hot to drink", but if you put your finger in it, it would probably not feel as hot. A difficult one?

I recently fitted a Trichord Clock 4b to my modded CD63. I was not that impressed with the results through the player, but as a transport into an external DAC....Whooooo hooo! Mega. Sorry - note to self.....don't drink wine!
 
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madis64

Member
Joined 2015
Hello Puffin,

by "fingertip -hot" I meant "uncomfortably hot for fingertip". Going into Celsius degrees - I guess the metal plate of the regulator is roughly around 55 degrees since I can keep my fingertip on it but it is quite uncomfortable feeling.

The question still is - how hot should it in the current device context be (based on user experience).

It did not cause any problems when test driving it for a week and today I disconnected the headphones' section from the power rails so the dissipating power should go down.

I am still wondering whether I should bother with fitting some kind of heatsinks on them (space is kind of limited there and I have actually not seen too many on the photos in this thread).
 
Ben Hanke

Ben Hanke

Member
Joined 2007
I knew what you meant by 'finger tip hot'. If you can hold your finger against it then you should be within thermal spec, but to say if it's normal really depends on how much current you're drawing and what the voltage drop is. What application are you using the LM317/337s for? Op-amp output stage?
 
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Luke

Member
Joined 2001
stenks said:
Hello everyone!
After several months of work on the Marantz CD67, and in many posts read I would like to share my impressions and any advice from personal experience that would contribute to progress in order to achieve the objective that this little CD player become a great player is welcome..
Immediately I have to say that I'm not satisfied with the performance and effort invested money with what you get and if this player deserves great attention.
In the following:

1.Replacement diode with (ultra fast recovery BYV 27) digital and analog section cpl.
2. Replacement of capacitors Elna Silmic II to anolog and Nichicon KA, Panosonic FC and OSCON SEP on digital section, LM 2940,LM 317,337 regs for audio and digital, completely cleaned 12V power supply.
 3. Low jitter clock with own low noise power supply.
4. Mutting control with relays.
5. Dumping housing of cd player.
6. Bridging HDAM and placed OPA 627 (I experimented with more operational amplifire such as LM 4652, OPA 2134, OPA2132, OPA2604 only I had no opportunity to try something from analog device such as AD 825, AD8066, etc ...
7. Decoupling is done with the decoder, DAC, such as Ray and Thorsten and other members of the forum mentioned in their modifications, although I have to admit that the decoupling of individual components of the decoder had a negative impact on the quality of the upper part of the spectrum (middle and high especially in the upper high).
8. Output capacitors are Mundorf EVO although I too experimenting with Black Gate NX BP and Nichicon MUSE BP.

9. EMI RFI filter for 220V.

Now a few words about the sound, after modification player running smoothly bass are tight precise and deep, middle and high tones are clearer but dragged. For comparison I used my good old Sony CDP-X 222 ES, Marantz CD 65 MKII modified and they have worked in many aspects better than the Marantz CD67 I just could not believe it.
I want to add that the biggest impact on the complete sound picture had replacement capacitors around the opamp with Elna Silmic, (Cerafine removed) the output capacitor and of course the installation of low jitter clock and also increasing capacity of capacitor C813 from 4700uF to 22000uF really noticeable improvement but negatively affects the treble and midd resulted a loss of clarity.
My next step is to add another transformer 2x12V 30W for the digital part of the power supply and after that I really do not know where to go.
The rest of my system is well balanced using fully modified Hafler DH-101 preamp and Hafler DH-200 power amp speakers are Acoustic Research AR11.



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If you have a problem with opening image just right click the mouse then reload image size will automatically adjust the picture I put in high resolution perhaps someone needs some detail from PCB.


Best regards
Click to expand...

Hi Stenks, i found too much capacitance screwed up mids and highs. I think its a balance, there is no right or wrong, its personal. Just remove some capacitance and find the balance that suits. To my tastes, silmic are the nicest caps, again there is no magic answer, its preference.
 
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Stabby

Member
Joined 2010
Luke said:
Hi Stenks, i found too much capacitance screwed up mids and highs. I think its a balance, there is no right or wrong, its personal. Just remove some capacitance and find the balance that suits. To my tastes, silmic are the nicest caps, again there is no magic answer, its preference.
Click to expand...

What value Silmics would you advise for analog decoupling? I'm thinking of trying 100uF, maybe 220uF but I don't think anything higher will make a noticable difference.
 
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Ben Hanke

Ben Hanke

Member
Joined 2007
With stock voltage, HDAMs and LM4564s, 'fingertip hot' sounds about right to me.

Regarding the capacitance, I've currently got something like 220,000uF pre-reg in my player. I initially noticed fuller bass when I beefed up C813. I later started putting in separate IC supplies, but I haven't noticed a compounding effect on tonal balance of adding more. Incidentally, bypassing PSU caps with small film caps has never led to anything but disastrous results for me.
 
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