Linn Mimik anyone?

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.

Attachments

  • Linn Mimik-I.jpg
    Linn Mimik-I.jpg
    49.3 KB · Views: 335
  • Linn Mimik-X.jpg
    Linn Mimik-X.jpg
    11.1 KB · Views: 232
  • Linn Mimik-IX.jpg
    Linn Mimik-IX.jpg
    95.5 KB · Views: 172
  • Linn Mimik-VIII.jpg
    Linn Mimik-VIII.jpg
    124.4 KB · Views: 185
  • Linn Mimik-VII.jpg
    Linn Mimik-VII.jpg
    281.4 KB · Views: 130
  • Linn Mimik-VI.jpg
    Linn Mimik-VI.jpg
    289.1 KB · Views: 160
  • Linn Mimik-V.jpg
    Linn Mimik-V.jpg
    261.5 KB · Views: 330
  • Linn Mimik-IV.jpg
    Linn Mimik-IV.jpg
    74.9 KB · Views: 363
  • Linn Mimik-III.jpg
    Linn Mimik-III.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 334
  • Linn Mimik-II.jpg
    Linn Mimik-II.jpg
    43.2 KB · Views: 323
Last edited:
Currently I have such a device for repair (Mimik Ser.-No 003016). The Loader is the model "TCD-FL12" from Sanyo equipped with Hitachi optical pick up HOP-M3A - both also used in Luxman's D357 - go to
Le forum Audio Vintage • Afficher le sujet - LUXMAN D357 - manque un pignon -RESOLU-
and post #4 about
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/193274-luxman-a373-d375-t353-integr-amp-cd-fm-tuner.html

In which other (cheaper) cd player models from those days are this loader also still in use?

Thank you for advices.

P.S. This MIMIK version I have is a scaled version of the Karik with fewer components (similar or same main PCB)
 

Attachments

  • Loader TCD-FL12 (HOP-M3A) Luxman D357 Linn Mimik Ser.-No 003016.jpg
    Loader TCD-FL12 (HOP-M3A) Luxman D357 Linn Mimik Ser.-No 003016.jpg
    81.1 KB · Views: 116
Hi
Whats the problem with the player?
Thanks, Yair
for this repair I haven't special difficulties (faulty disc motor, contact problems at laser inner switch so as the switch for tray in/out, dirty laser collimator lens of HOP-3MA pickup and dirty keybooad PCB/keyboard rubber for the operation functions at the front), fortunately only usual stuff.
But I want to know nevertheless other CD player models, where this loader is in use. Then I purchase such a model in used condition for such cases, when I will get expensive models like Luxman's D357 or this model with "hard to find" failures.
Then it is much more easy to determine the reasons for errors.
 
Well, let me tell you the story... Not so long ago I changed transport on my Mimic, nothing complicated, that is understandable. Well, on the board there are many different test points, including nutrition +/- 15 in. Since I am not a naive Chukcha
boy, it is completely obvious to me that if Linn writes “15”, then it is, of course, there. But there was multimeter at hand... At first I thought maybe something happened with the multimeter, although it never failed. Then I began to shake a little bit - I thought that it was me who had nursed something in the previous “mods”. But I do not know how, the first thing I always check is voltage. Well, shortly, in fact +9.5 / -11.2. Let's look at the board and with the “superficial” analysis of the components, it turned out that yes!!!, With such values ​​of resistors, THIS IS the power we should receive from LM317 / 337. And what's the catch? It was decided to restore justice, for which a deeper analysis of the scheme was carried out, since no crime from raising voltage to standard levels was revealed, then it was possible to proceed. The main point is that the positive side of the 9 volt directly feeds both the analog circuits and all the motors of the player, including the spindle - full Achtung!!! In this regard, I was greatly interested in the “missing elements” on the board. Began to dig in the Internet, look Linn's insides and found out that Karik = Mimik, only with all the details in his place. Missed LM317 just feeds the engines (from the previous one comes 15, and from it already 9 volts), but in Mimik it is replaced by a jumper (diode D17). It was decided to upgrade in two stages - first 15 volts, then 9 volts to the engines. Turn on, all right, everywhere +/- 15 volts, click “Open” - surpraaaaaayz !!! The tray flew out at the speed of sound)), and I immediately remembered that there were no 15 volt engines, but there was a 9))) Well, proceed to the second stage, installed a stub, checked 9 volts, and everything should be normal. But NO!!! on engines still 15 volts. The third analysis of the circuit revealed that the output of LM317 15v in the board is tightly tied on the engines, no jumpers nor resistors, so that you can break the circuit, and 9 volts at the same time reach only the OPTOMEKK I / O connector, which in fact does not exist (and there would be some sense). Well, the only one thing to do is cut track on the board. The nearest intersection was found, where it is 2 cm from 9 volts, a track was cut and a jumper was installed. Turn on - everything works, hurray!!! But the question remained - was it conceived or cant? 15 volts is necessary for the output Lm837 opamp, well, with engines it is at least poor to untie, but everything has its meaning - a little bit here, a little bit there, that's the sound. The sound was affected noticeably (for the better side, of cause), more “analog”, so to speak. I can go further along the road to Karik, but then we need another secondary winding with a midpoint. Although it is possible to parallelize the existing one, but I'm already too lazy to do something else))
 
And YES, this is not the instruction!!! If you break your machine, then I am not guilty. There is dangerous voltage inside! Do not disassemble or give to children! In case of contact with eyes, rinse with plenty of water! This machine has no brain, use your own!!!
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.