mpeg decoder...
Hi Guys,
I am looking to make my SDI output even better, so I want to connect it right to the Mitsubishi mpeg decoder
(It says
m32r/e
m32102s6fp
302b100
on the chip. My usual sources for datasheets is coming up blank. So I need help finding the pinouts for this chip. Thanks guys.
God bless...
mark
Hi Guys,
I am looking to make my SDI output even better, so I want to connect it right to the Mitsubishi mpeg decoder
(It says
m32r/e
m32102s6fp
302b100
on the chip. My usual sources for datasheets is coming up blank. So I need help finding the pinouts for this chip. Thanks guys.
God bless...
mark
Back to audio 
I did replace the 2 op275 with 4 pieces BB OPA627BP and 2 adapters. (total cost 26 usd) like Diar did. Thx for the advice by the way!!!
The is really a large improvement!!! WOW!! What a sound stage, speed, micro dynamics. Now we can hear what SACD is capable of.
Did anyone replaced the NJM2068 for I/V and some BA15218 for hf filtering??
yes? any advise?
I did replace the 2 op275 with 4 pieces BB OPA627BP and 2 adapters. (total cost 26 usd) like Diar did. Thx for the advice by the way!!!
The is really a large improvement!!! WOW!! What a sound stage, speed, micro dynamics. Now we can hear what SACD is capable of.
Did anyone replaced the NJM2068 for I/V and some BA15218 for hf filtering??
yes? any advise?
Back to audio
I did replace the 2 op275 with 4 pieces BB OPA627BP and 2 adapters. (total cost 26 usd) like Diar did. Thx for the advice by the way!!!
The is really a large improvement!!! WOW!! What a sound stage, speed, micro dynamics. Now we can hear what SACD is capable of.
Did anyone replaced the NJM2068 for I/V and some BA15218 for hf filtering??
yes? any advise?
I did replace the 2 op275 with 4 pieces BB OPA627BP and 2 adapters. (total cost 26 usd) like Diar did. Thx for the advice by the way!!!
The is really a large improvement!!! WOW!! What a sound stage, speed, micro dynamics. Now we can hear what SACD is capable of.
Did anyone replaced the NJM2068 for I/V and some BA15218 for hf filtering??
yes? any advise?
Op 275..
Hi,
Ok so I am ready to start some audio board mods and I noticed the 2 op275's am I right in thinking that those two havet o do with the digital outputs, or do they serve some other purpose?
Can I replace the njm2068 opamps with dual BB opa627 without causing myself anytroubleS?
Thanks
God bless....
Mark
Hi,
Ok so I am ready to start some audio board mods and I noticed the 2 op275's am I right in thinking that those two havet o do with the digital outputs, or do they serve some other purpose?
Can I replace the njm2068 opamps with dual BB opa627 without causing myself anytroubleS?
Thanks
God bless....
Mark
SDI...
One more thing,
I amnaged to trace the yuv2-9 feeds back from the video board to the top side of the main board through a set of 22ohm mini resistors and then they go to the underside of the main board and come out behind the IC marked TruSurround (data sheet seems to indicate that this is the mpeg decoder.) Is that correct? Is that the mpeg?
Would it help my picture quality to out my sdi feed before those resistors, or would that cause me problems?
Thanks
God bless...
Mark
One more thing,
I amnaged to trace the yuv2-9 feeds back from the video board to the top side of the main board through a set of 22ohm mini resistors and then they go to the underside of the main board and come out behind the IC marked TruSurround (data sheet seems to indicate that this is the mpeg decoder.) Is that correct? Is that the mpeg?
Would it help my picture quality to out my sdi feed before those resistors, or would that cause me problems?
Thanks
God bless...
Mark
opamp upgrade...
Hi,
I just got done upgrading all the opamps in the FR and FL of my 2900. I used BB opa2134 and the sound is great. The imaging is better by far and soundstage is also better! (It actuall sounds like the voice is coming from front center even w/o a center speaker!)
It is well worth the effort.
God bless...
Mark
Hi,
I just got done upgrading all the opamps in the FR and FL of my 2900. I used BB opa2134 and the sound is great. The imaging is better by far and soundstage is also better! (It actuall sounds like the voice is coming from front center even w/o a center speaker!)
It is well worth the effort.
God bless...
Mark
I,d really like to get my hands on the scematics as well.
I recently bought the player (Dec 2004) and would like to modify it at some point, probably starting with the power supply (as this is easiest to build and test off-board and then replace when I know it works!)
Keep up the good work all
I recently bought the player (Dec 2004) and would like to modify it at some point, probably starting with the power supply (as this is easiest to build and test off-board and then replace when I know it works!)
Keep up the good work all
grounding bypass caps...
Hi,
I finally decieded to bypass the opa 2134s I put in my 2900. I am wondering what is the best place to ground them to? (i noticed that the metal tabs to the chassy are isolated from what appears to be the ground plane via what look like smd resistors, but I can not find any continuity through them, so they seem to not connect at all.
Do I just tie my caps into the other side of the ground plane away from where the mounting tabs are?
Thanks
God bless....
Mark
Hi,
I finally decieded to bypass the opa 2134s I put in my 2900. I am wondering what is the best place to ground them to? (i noticed that the metal tabs to the chassy are isolated from what appears to be the ground plane via what look like smd resistors, but I can not find any continuity through them, so they seem to not connect at all.
Do I just tie my caps into the other side of the ground plane away from where the mounting tabs are?
Thanks
God bless....
Mark
opamps, clock etc...
Hi,
I replaced the op275 with opa627 and tested w and w/o bypass caps and the 627 really does like to be bypassed for best performance.
anyone else have thoughts on doing a clock upgrade on these players? Would it make my SDI ouput better? How about audio? (Based on the circut, I am guessing I would get more in the video end than the audio end due to the IC circuits after the clock)
God bless...
Mark
Hi,
I replaced the op275 with opa627 and tested w and w/o bypass caps and the 627 really does like to be bypassed for best performance.
anyone else have thoughts on doing a clock upgrade on these players? Would it make my SDI ouput better? How about audio? (Based on the circut, I am guessing I would get more in the video end than the audio end due to the IC circuits after the clock)
God bless...
Mark
I have installed the Tent XO2 in DVD-A11 and it did give an impovement and according to owner it did improve the sound more than video.
Take care also to improve the bypassing on PLL IC and also a buffer inverter after the PLL IS that feed different parts of a player with clock.
****
As for suggestion that the upgrade is not worth - I think it is. The output clock from PLL will still be much better feed from a pure and low jitter clock source than the original version. Also the clock circuit is mostly inverters for buffering and the added jitter there is still very small compared with original jittery clock.
Ergo
Take care also to improve the bypassing on PLL IC and also a buffer inverter after the PLL IS that feed different parts of a player with clock.
****
As for suggestion that the upgrade is not worth - I think it is. The output clock from PLL will still be much better feed from a pure and low jitter clock source than the original version. Also the clock circuit is mostly inverters for buffering and the added jitter there is still very small compared with original jittery clock.
Ergo
Swenson Mod on 2900?
Can the "Swenson mod" for the Toshiba 3960 and 4960 also be done to the Denon 2900? I did this in my 4960 recently and it made a vast improvement and you don't need to replace opamps. According to John Swenson the mod can be done to the 2900 if the DAC used in the 2900 is a voltage out DAC and not a current out DAC. Any ideas? Thanks!
Can the "Swenson mod" for the Toshiba 3960 and 4960 also be done to the Denon 2900? I did this in my 4960 recently and it made a vast improvement and you don't need to replace opamps.
According to John Swenson the mod can be done to the 2900 if the DAC used in the 2900 is a voltage out DAC and not a current out DAC. Any ideas? Thanks!
opamp bypass mod...
Hi,
The opamp bypassing mod will most likely not work on teh 2900 in that it has a set of opamps to do current to voltage conversion. The dac in it is a BB dsd1790 which is similar to the dsd 1792 and dsd 1796 dacs. try going to ti.com and do a part search for those part numbers and down load the data sheets for those two dacs and then read them over and see what you find.
God bless...
Mark
Hi,
The opamp bypassing mod will most likely not work on teh 2900 in that it has a set of opamps to do current to voltage conversion. The dac in it is a BB dsd1790 which is similar to the dsd 1792 and dsd 1796 dacs. try going to ti.com and do a part search for those part numbers and down load the data sheets for those two dacs and then read them over and see what you find.
God bless...
Mark
Hi All,
I am looking to replace the clock as a starter. I have the schematics in pdf format and have the clock ordered. I was wondering about where to connect the new clock? Guido always suggests to remove both the clock and the two adjacent caps. I saw some professional mod where, as far as I could see, only the clock was removed. What are your takes on this?
What i also do not understand is why in the original state the clock signal is fed to pin 8 of the sm8707EV clock gen? In the datasheet of this IC pin 8 is for xto and 7 for xti. Pin 7 isn't even connected!!
So what would you recommend? Only remove the original clock and hook up the new tent XO? And onto which points?
My thougts would be to only cut the trace between r169 and pin 8 from the ic105 (sm8707ev clock ic) and hook up the + of the clock there on pin 8. And hook up the - to the ground somewhere near pin 8.
It would then be very easy to restore the old clock circuitry by only reconnecting the rightside of r169 with pin 8 again. Correct me if I am wrong here. Thanks in advance!!
I am looking to replace the clock as a starter. I have the schematics in pdf format and have the clock ordered. I was wondering about where to connect the new clock? Guido always suggests to remove both the clock and the two adjacent caps. I saw some professional mod where, as far as I could see, only the clock was removed. What are your takes on this?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
What i also do not understand is why in the original state the clock signal is fed to pin 8 of the sm8707EV clock gen? In the datasheet of this IC pin 8 is for xto and 7 for xti. Pin 7 isn't even connected!!
So what would you recommend? Only remove the original clock and hook up the new tent XO? And onto which points?
My thougts would be to only cut the trace between r169 and pin 8 from the ic105 (sm8707ev clock ic) and hook up the + of the clock there on pin 8. And hook up the - to the ground somewhere near pin 8.
It would then be very easy to restore the old clock circuitry by only reconnecting the rightside of r169 with pin 8 again. Correct me if I am wrong here. Thanks in advance!!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Denon Dutch Mod
I am naming this mod procedure the Denon Dutch Mod as I got the idea through this Dutch modding website and through assistance from diyaudio forum member D.A.R.R.Y.L. who happens to live in Holland.
These are the steps:
1. Months ago I replaced the two opamps (IC216 and IC21?) on the top of the audio board and the one underneath the board marked "IC213"with AD8620's. You can also use BB OPA627's on browndogs. It all depends on your ears and your system. (Note: I have found the AD8620 midrange is too light for my ears, so over the weekend, I am going to try AD8066's which some say provide the detail of the AD8620's and warmth of the BB opa627's.)
2. I removed all the two-channel output caps from the top of the audio board using a hot iron and soderwick. They would be
C369 and C360 (Blue film caps)
C366, C355, C367, and C357 (4- 2.2uf/50V caps)
C421 and it's mate (2- 220uf/50V caps)
3. I replaced all these caps with 2 - 10uf/200V Auricaps (Actually I used OEM Auricaps from RTI). I am sure Solens, Audyncaps, Multicaps, Sonicaps, etc... are good and cheaper equivalents. I soldered the negative leads to the negative pads of C357 and C355. I soldered the postive leads to now shorted C369 and C360 (where the Blue film caps used to be).
4. I secured the rather big Auricaps to the board with Silicone.
Experience shows that Auricaps take a number of hours to break-in but I noticed immediate positive results from this upgrade. More micro detail, less harsh highs, bouncy bass, slightly warmer midrange.
I am naming this mod procedure the Denon Dutch Mod as I got the idea through this Dutch modding website and through assistance from diyaudio forum member D.A.R.R.Y.L. who happens to live in Holland.
These are the steps:
1. Months ago I replaced the two opamps (IC216 and IC21?) on the top of the audio board and the one underneath the board marked "IC213"with AD8620's. You can also use BB OPA627's on browndogs. It all depends on your ears and your system. (Note: I have found the AD8620 midrange is too light for my ears, so over the weekend, I am going to try AD8066's which some say provide the detail of the AD8620's and warmth of the BB opa627's.)
2. I removed all the two-channel output caps from the top of the audio board using a hot iron and soderwick. They would be
C369 and C360 (Blue film caps)
C366, C355, C367, and C357 (4- 2.2uf/50V caps)
C421 and it's mate (2- 220uf/50V caps)
3. I replaced all these caps with 2 - 10uf/200V Auricaps (Actually I used OEM Auricaps from RTI). I am sure Solens, Audyncaps, Multicaps, Sonicaps, etc... are good and cheaper equivalents. I soldered the negative leads to the negative pads of C357 and C355. I soldered the postive leads to now shorted C369 and C360 (where the Blue film caps used to be).
4. I secured the rather big Auricaps to the board with Silicone.
Experience shows that Auricaps take a number of hours to break-in but I noticed immediate positive results from this upgrade. More micro detail, less harsh highs, bouncy bass, slightly warmer midrange.
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