CDM2/10 Behaving Badly

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before I bought my 960s,I had roughly the same idea.
Opening one up,the greatest shock was the use of singlesided pcbs.After that I found out that these machines have the worst layout of any 1541player I have seen.

That sound resonable.
So,do you think CD960 is worse material for great sounding CD-player than CD 304MKII?
Some think it is one of the best.
What better would you recomend?
Marantz CD 80? 94/94MKII/95?

Have you noticed any ground loops and poor component placement in CD 960?

Funny nick you have - TDA1540
What do you think about those TDA1540 DAC machines in comparision to TDA1541 ones.

Bartek
 
So,do you think CD960 is worse material for great sounding CD-player than CD 304MKII?

yes I do

Some think it is one of the best

I looked inside....

Marantz CD 80? 94/94MKII/95?

cd94=cd960,
cd94mk2 and cd95 are unknown to me

Have you noticed any ground loops and poor component placement in CD 960?

The current output by the 1541 is doing a grand tour on the pcb,thanks to an illogical grounddistribution.
Powersupply is all over the place:someone thought it necessary to put three regulators on a separate pcb,a considerable distance from the rest of the supply(mind you,with a fair amount of wiring)
The good idea of using two 5534 per channel is let down by the supplydecoupling(many a 833 in a budget philips is better decoupled)
I can go on.But I still want to sell the ones I have.....

To end on a positive note: the servoboard looks ok!
 
TDA1540 said:


The current output by the 1541 is doing a grand tour on the pcb,thanks to an illogical grounddistribution.


current doesn't wanna go to ground... Read TDA1541 info thread.

TDA1540 said:


I prefer a standard 1540 player over a 7220/1541 machine,but a nonOS 1541 is nice,very nice.....;)

Wanna trade: B&O CD-X (~CD104) for anything near CD960 :D
 
I don't like CD 304MKII becouse it is noisy in my Gain Clone setup.
I just don't know why but Gain Clone + Cd 304MKII and there is big hissssss in the speakers,kind of high frequency noise.If I change the player it's gone.If I change Gain Clone for Aleph or Zen amp it is gone ,too.
I have already tried three diffrent CD 304MKII , it's always the same so it's not foulty CD player.
It might be some radio frequency noise that GC is picking up,but why Cd 304MKII is producing it? I don't know.

Any idea?

Bartek
 
zygibajt said:
Thanks for your advices TDA1540

>Guido
What do you think about those machines.
Which one would you choose for starting point for an excellent machine?

Are you a big fan of first CDM 1 ?

Bartek

Hi,

Most of the cdm1 machines also have the old chipset with TDA1540. So no I2S inside to hook anything else on, no space anyway to put much in anyay.

My B&O reads disks, but (TDA dont read this ;) it is not a 100% anymore. On the other hand i think they were better build (read less cost reduction: more metal, more PS, relays for muting, no transistors. Not shure if you can mod them to non-os: before the dig filter the signals are 16 bit and probably can't connect that to the 14 bit DAC's without logic. If youre in for that anyway.

I would like to get my hands on a big marantz with metal cdm4: plenty of space inside, nice PS and the dac part is easy to take out and replace (if needed, never heard one on a good stereo).
I worked on a cd10 and that would suit my needs. And got enough cdm4 spares to keep it running. But prices however are still high, and it is not worth that much for me.

But that's just my dream:D
 
Most of the cdm1 machines also have the old chipset with TDA1540. So no I2S inside to hook anything else on, no space anyway to put much in anyay.

I was only reffering to TDA 1541 ones.

I would like to get my hands on a big marantz with metal cdm4: plenty of space inside, nice PS and the dac part is easy to take out and replace

Which Marantz are you talking about? I don't suppose TDA1541A one.


I also like CDM 1/MKII and I think it is very good.

Bartek
 
zygibajt said:


I was only reffering to TDA 1541 ones.



Which Marantz are you talking about? I don't suppose TDA1541A one.


I also like CDM 1/MKII and I think it is very good.

Bartek

Not that many CDM1&TDA1541 i know about.

CD10,CD11,CD15,CD16,CD17,CD7 All 1547 except one..
Never really heard one of them (!), but i've seen CD10 from the inside and i could use it for hooking up my own dac (cdm4&SAA7310). If i ever get that finished. Spend too much time at the computer instead of building stuff :hot: And i'm working on the preamp again, replace volume pot with relays.
 
CDM4/11????

chlo said:
Hello,

My Arcam delta 70.2 CDP has originally CDM4/11 with PCB board, when I bought it, it played some CDR but after exchanged all elect caps, it reads everything now. Try to replace all caps on the PCB board, which attached to the transport, someone mentioned about changing the AXIAL 16V 33uf cap (which caused trouble!). I also swapped in CDM1 Mk2 (from Marantz CD80), CDM2/10(from Philips CD650) and CDM2/29 (from Philips Cd371) and the Player just works fine, no trouble at all, and it even tracks CDR better than my tow years old SONY SACD Player. I think all CDM transports are very good, but have some problems with dry electro caps around.

Hope this will help.

Regards


Hi

I just got an Arcam Delta 70.2 and I'm not sure what CDM it has. A quick look inside revealed a metal (Aluminium) base and supports. It also has its own pcb.

Reading CDs is no problem - however, the Error light comes on with CDRs, but it plays them - and it doesn't read CDRWs at all.
 
CDM2 inside philips cd460

Hello.

I have an old cd philips 460 with inside a Cm2/10.
The player don't read CDR.
I think this could be a problem of Laser 'cause all old cdplayer reads CDR.
So, i think i need to change the Laser's caps, or make some adjustment of laser's pot in cdm2.
This cap should be C2103.
My Problem is that I'm not able to remove CDm2 from the inside of cdp, so i need some instruction, please.
Have you some suggestion?
Thanks
RR
 

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You need to remove one screw in the middle back and 3 screws of the front panel. Then you little swing the front panel and the mechanism can be taken out.

However, be prepared to change all electrolytics in the player. It is also necessary to watch the voltage on the aforementioned resistor. One of my players went crazy when I little pushed the trimpot -- it had too high laser power regardless of the trim position. Only complete change of caps helped.

Do you have the schematics? I'm interested if you could e-mail it to me.
 
PetrL said:
You need to remove one screw in the middle back and 3 screws of the front panel. Then you little swing the front panel and the mechanism can be taken out.

However, be prepared to change all electrolytics in the player. It is also necessary to watch the voltage on the aforementioned resistor. One of my players went crazy when I little pushed the trimpot -- it had too high laser power regardless of the trim position. Only complete change of caps helped.

Do you have the schematics? I'm interested if you could e-mail it to me.

Thanks.
I think the screw on the middle back is the one that push down a spring, right?
I did'nt have schematic of player, i have onlly a service manual pdf format in German language of a generic cdm 2 without clamper or mechanics.
If you're interested about, e-mail me your address.
I'm interested too, as i said before about a service manual of ENTIRE Cdm2
Bye
txs
Riccardo
 
Yes, that screw with spring. I have no manual of cdm2-style drawer. Possibly doesn't exist? -- it is self-explanatory once you have it out of player. If you think ergonomical, yes, the adjustment is mystery for me as well. I drilled
hole in the bottom and soldered wires to that resistor in order to adjust having the mechanism in player. I'm interested in the manual of cdm2, please e-mail to ptlo(tht at sign)centrum.cz
Thank you!
 
Measurement location

Hi,

I'm sorry to bother you with the CDM2 once again. I would like to check the laser voltage on my CDM2 board, but I can't find the test point. There are certainly different versions of this board (noticed this on a CD150 and a CD150mk2); which explains why I'me completely lost. I would be glad to get some advices. But please note that I don't have the manual, then components numbers and chip resistors values can't be used easily. If it can help, this morning, I've made some large photos of the servo PCB. So, I could send them to anyone who can show me (on these photos) where I should measure the voltage. Thank you in advance,

Henri

PS: my version uses the TDA5708P, TDA 5709P and MAB8441P T012 chips
 

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