I have recapped the PSU with Panasonic FR and replaced large 68uF cap with Rubycon 82uF same voltage. They had those unreliable Capxon caps that I hate and the picture quality was too dark and glare was ridiculous. Much better quality now and has made me decide not to get a better player
I replaced the Jamicon caps with Elna Silmic 2s,i had to put two under the board as the original solder just wouldn't come off and was a bit of a pain
Bitumen some parts of the chassis not too near high heat areas with good improvement
Anything I can do with it to improve it more? I don't mind putting some money into it
Thank you
I replaced the Jamicon caps with Elna Silmic 2s,i had to put two under the board as the original solder just wouldn't come off and was a bit of a pain
Bitumen some parts of the chassis not too near high heat areas with good improvement
Anything I can do with it to improve it more? I don't mind putting some money into it
Thank you
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Have you looked at its schematics?
It seems to use PCM5102 to provide analogue output.
From its datasheet:
"Zero Data Detect
The PCM510x has a zero-data detect function. When the device detects continuous zero data, it enters a full
analog mute condition.
The PCM510x counts zero data over 1024LRCKs (21ms @ 48kHz) before setting analog mute."
Why not jump the output muting stage?
And 2,2nF on output socket (C312/313) I would definitely remove (if it were "my THT domain")
It seems to use PCM5102 to provide analogue output.
From its datasheet:
"Zero Data Detect
The PCM510x has a zero-data detect function. When the device detects continuous zero data, it enters a full
analog mute condition.
The PCM510x counts zero data over 1024LRCKs (21ms @ 48kHz) before setting analog mute."
Why not jump the output muting stage?
And 2,2nF on output socket (C312/313) I would definitely remove (if it were "my THT domain")
These caps are from output signal to ground - one for left and one for right channel. If it were my player then I would try to remove them (can depend on one's soldering skills) and see if it improves anything.
PSU finished. More than happy with the results. Those crappy caps did no justice to the player. Changed 1 220uF 25v to a Panasonic FM. A small Nichicon 10uF 50v I previously replaced to Nichicon PS 100v. A Chemi-con KY 22uF 50v I previously replaced to Nichicon PS 63v.
Most caps higher voltage than before now and no extremely dark picture and super bright sun reflections on people's heads lol sorry but that was annoying
I'm not saying I've improved the players original picture quality yet its far better and the sound quality is worth listening too with music.
Only one original PSU cap was in spec (uF) and all high ESR than they should be, only tested on cheap ESR meter.
I've enjoyed it, interesting.
I'll remove those SMD components, as suggested, tomorrow
Most caps higher voltage than before now and no extremely dark picture and super bright sun reflections on people's heads lol sorry but that was annoying
I'm not saying I've improved the players original picture quality yet its far better and the sound quality is worth listening too with music.
Only one original PSU cap was in spec (uF) and all high ESR than they should be, only tested on cheap ESR meter.
I've enjoyed it, interesting.
I'll remove those SMD components, as suggested, tomorrow
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