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Marantz Cd6000 OSE recap help
Marantz Cd6000 OSE recap help
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Old 30th May 2019, 11:58 PM   #1
StewartH83 is offline StewartH83  England
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Default Marantz Cd6000 OSE recap help

I'm recapping my Marantz Cd6000 OSE and I could do with some guidance on the big PS filter caps.

I understand capacitors are a lot smaller than these 90s capacitors yet I would like to confirm that the size will not matter.

These big black Elna For Audio caps are only 1000uf and 35v and I was wondering if 1000uf 50v/63v Panasonic FR wire leads will be OK or go for them values in a snap on type?

I think either will work OK and snap on can fit in the holes yet not sure which is the better option

I have recapped some of them to Rubycon I had already, except one Koshin which measured better than the original but will replace with new after the next order with the others.

I also put bitumen on the bottom chassis and with the caps replaced too it sounds much better.

I could do with a recommendation for a good Opamp for this classic player too if anyone can help it will be much appreciated.

Lately I have recapped my PSU in my LG TV, Rotel, Yamaha and Marantz amp, Yamaha Blueray player and Marantz tuner with Panasonic caps in PSUs and Rubycon in signal paths and really impressed with the improvements

Thanks for reading the long thread, apologies!
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Old 31st May 2019, 12:43 AM   #2
rayma is online now rayma  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StewartH83 View Post
if 1000uf 50v/63v Panasonic FR wire leads will be OK or go for them values in a snap on type?
If you have the luxury of several options on the caps, higher voltage and 105C parts are always good.
To use a snap-in type, the holes have to be very well cleaned of solder without pcb damage.
This may be difficult if there is a ground plane.

Also, you can go up to 2200uF with no problem, if available.

Last edited by rayma; 31st May 2019 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 31st May 2019, 01:10 AM   #3
StewartH83 is offline StewartH83  England
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Thank you very much for your reply rayma

I really appreciate your comments as for one the Marantz pcb are known for not being the best, I had trouble with my newer Marantz amplifier so I will go with the normal leaded type I guess.

I called them snap on by mistake haha I can tell I work in the automotive trade hehe

Also I didn't even think of increasing the value, even though I did with my Rotel amp from 8200uF to 10kuF and I had only good results.

I'm so glad I asked and you replied, made my day!

Last edited by StewartH83; 31st May 2019 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 31st May 2019, 01:15 AM   #4
rayma is online now rayma  United States
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Originally Posted by StewartH83 View Post
I had trouble with my newer Marantz amplifier so I will go with the normal leaded type
There should be no downside to using leaded caps instead, just seat them fully on the board.
If the old caps are snap-in types, getting them out with no board damage will be the hardest part.
Working on cars should mean that you have plenty of patience, though.

Last edited by rayma; 31st May 2019 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 31st May 2019, 01:23 AM   #5
StewartH83 is offline StewartH83  England
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OK great, thank you for your great advice
I was a bit worried about the white adhesive on the board too and was hoping a Stanley blade should be OK?
The original caps are not snap in as far as I could see previously yet the solder blobs were big but I presumed they would be at first
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Old 31st May 2019, 01:41 AM   #6
rayma is online now rayma  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StewartH83 View Post
I was a bit worried about the white adhesive on the board too
and was hoping a Stanley blade should be OK?
I'd worry about touching the pcb with a sharp blade.
If the glue is soft, maybe it will peel away if you get it started.
If it's hard, you may need some kind of solvent, but that could harm other parts.
Maybe someone could say what's worked for them.
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Old 31st May 2019, 01:54 AM   #7
StewartH83 is offline StewartH83  England
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I'll have a think about that while I wait for the caps from hifi collective and like you say someone may have expierenced it comes off easy enough after desolding.
I may changed the little green caps to some from Wima too, some on here have had good results on this player doing that and bypassing the HDAM and mute transistors too but I won't be going that far
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Old 31st May 2019, 02:00 AM   #8
rayma is online now rayma  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StewartH83 View Post
some on here have had good results on this player doing that and bypassing
HDAM and mute transistors too but I won't be going that far
The mute circuit is there for a good reason.
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Old 31st May 2019, 02:16 AM   #9
StewartH83 is offline StewartH83  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayma View Post
The mute circuit is there for a good reason.
I can't agree more. I play this player on an old Rotel ra-820bx2 as I like the warmer sound it gives it as my Marantz amp is too bright
I'm guessing the amp nothing that side (from what I have read you need them on the amp)
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Old 12th June 2019, 05:32 PM   #10
StewartH83 is offline StewartH83  England
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I ended up exchanging the big 1000uF 35v caps for 2200uF 35v Panasonic FR, exchanging the Koshin 1000uF I put in for a Panasonic FM along with a few others and had a massive difference.

I'm doing the full recap in stages and today just put 10 470uF 25v Nippon in exchange for the 16v after the rectifiers and phono stages and didn't realise I missed two 470uF under the lifted board so order them now

I can't seem to get the clips off the lifted boards and will desolder the pins next time to replace the rest on both higher boards.

I've reflowed the front and main board too and we'll impressed with the sound quality difference by recapping my amp and player.

This is my 3rd system so needed experience before starting my main other more expensive gear.

I'm gonna try some small value Vishay or Silver Mica caps after the e-aps are done and was wondering if the small 0.47uF e-caps are worth replacing with Silver Micas? I have a Marantz tuner with them too so would appreciate someone's thoughts, thanks again
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