Philips SAA7220 Reclock PCB any good?

The Creek sounds very cool! Yup, replacing would add up for sure.



Ah, soldered you say, well that makes me think doing more to my friends player more of a PITA. I didn't even like the fact that I'd need to remove the CDM to tackle the board, but soldered connections instead of plugs...damn.

Send it to me, on second thoughts no don't. Lol. I've done about 5 rotels now, 855 and 955, done a load of others too, Sony, marantz, Philips, complete re caps and valve outputs. The valve stage is worth a try, I've got 3 of the lampizator transformers left, once I've used them I'm done. A lot of people say it's better to leave the sa7220 in and separate the clock signals, one clock signal just doesn't cut it, something else I want to try before retirement. 😊
 
You did a nice job with the valve outputs, very nice in fact :)


I was tossing up leaving the OS chip in, but went with what seemed easier.
Same with fitting a master clock (super clock) and it own supply, maybe I am just lazy ;)

Thanks...
I feel the same way about just doing the parts that give the most gain for the least work, life is too short to sit isolated in the soldering room for hours on end. :hypno1:
 
resurrection

Sorry folks I know this sort of thing has been covered here but I cant find anything this specific, I purchased this little drop in replacement for the filter chip but I would love to know what it does exactly, I asked the vender and I didnt get a very good response, "it reclocks and buffers the signal and sounds amazing" So I took it apart and drew the connections, I know its a Flip Flop and an Inverter/Buffer but can anyone with experience here say if its actually doing any good? Ive been reading about DEM reclocking and the mighty NOS thread for a while but my head is spinning. :scratch1: When I started the thread title one other thread popped up about the 74hc175N but had never got answered.


Alan
Apologies for resurrecting the old thread, but with the OP's board I'm looking at doing the same on a Philips CD460.

Would this circuit merely sit as a satellite board on top of the main board, and be inserted, leaving the SAA7220 and TDA1541 in place?

From what I understand it's a way of using the additional IC's flip-flop and resynching the crystal oscillator to give a much stronger connection.

It's a reclock without having an addditional 11MHz added like some suggest, and also NOT have the NOS modifications done.
Basically just to synch things up and reduce the jitter, from what I see?

Cheers!

Greg
 
reclock module

I thought of buying one of those but they don't appear to be on sale on Ebay any more, as I want to try NOS out on an unmodified player before deciding whether to go that way in any of my modified ones. I thought I had figured out the connections but looking at the Ebay photo which is still accessible the connections from pins 9 to 12 of the 7220 don't seem to make sense, it may be that there appears to be connections in the photo when there are not.
 
I have one of those Reclock chips...works great until it eventually starts making noises in both channels...went back to just NOS jumpers for now. May need to re-solder all the connections maybe
I've just got around to building my own.
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I re-soldered all connections on mine, but still has problem after DAC is warmed up. I noticed if I put my finger close to the Left side of pcb (Pins 1-12) i can get sound to distort without touching any pins...all connections seem solid...

Thinking of putting a blob of hot wax on left side, and then attaching a copper tape on the left edge to act as a shield?

Maybe I will start new thread...
 
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