don't trash your TEAC UD-H01 DAC, pimp it!

[mige0]

is the 2068 your only other recommendation?

NJM2068M | NJM2068M New Japan Radio,, Op Amp, 27MHz, 8-Pin DMP | RS Components do the MJM2068 (DMP?)

Sorry for the typo, its the NJM2068 you linked, that I meant

The NJM2058 is even lower in noise than the stock NE5532 as measured by others and NJM opamps I value very high as IMO always being the best "audio" opamps, despite whatever their specs are.

"But I already have plans to do a work around for the second stage using the 2x INA1620 each channel...

This might be beyond my skills

Actually it would not be that complicated.
But
It would require
- to buy two of the INA1620EVM boards from TI, which isn't cheap (but I already have them laying around)
- modify the boards as already shown above, which is an easy job
- squeeze the two boards into the TEAC, which might be quite a challenge

By the way, also the X7R ceramic bypass caps C7 and C8 on the INA1620EVM board have to be trashed, as they have a diametrical effect on sound quality adding a signature of "hardness".
Possibly replacing them with PPS caps would also do the trick - but I haven't tried them by now as the silver MICAs I have in place, do the job quite nicely
https://www.wima.de/wp-content/uploads/media/e_WIMA_SMD_PPS.pdf


So all in all I'm not sure if I will finish this INA1620 mod myself and it might be the saver route to just roll the NE5532

 

[cliffylfd]

Thanks mige0,I'll roll the op amps and see where you go from here......you might even upgrade from the Teac dac

 

[weissi]

Michael, how much did you pay for your UD-H01? I found one for €199 on willhaben, but that is a little bit over what I wanted to pay for it. It's just that I wanted to start a little modding challenge with you

 

[cliffylfd]

Weissi,
UD-H01 seem to holding it's price I am afraid,I was looking for a spare...just in case my soldering skills..or lack off,kill the one I have.

 

[mige0]

Michael, how much did you pay for your UD-H01?

Too much

From current perspective, I would say don't go past EUR 100.-

For comparison, the SMSL M9 was on massdrop last time I guess about EUR 150-200.-. New!
And thats a much more modern DAC - though I'm not sure if its a good base for modification, given its all cramped SMD build.

The HIFImeDIY UX1 is $70,- and trashes the TEAC in many aspects out of the box!
HiFimeDIY UX1 USB DAC (Sabre ES9023) + SPDIF/USB converter
Sure, its just 24 / 96 but for MP3 web streaming for example simply a great choice

It's just that I wanted to start a little modding challenge with you

 

[dalim0kumar]

HP sounds fantastic with LME49860!

 

[dalim0kumar]

In HP section rolled LME49720HA (neutral) NJM5532( nice but grainy). Surprisingly OPA2104 sounding fabulous to me (little bass heavy).

 

[cliffylfd]

Changed out the NE5532 ( mige0 said these go straight to XL)I use RCA so not sure if the change helped me..but i went for it .
Was a bit worried about taking old smd ones out did it once before and wasn't keen to do it again...until I googled it and someone mentioned this.

https://uk.farnell.com/chip-quik/sm...501f90a18050b&source=CJ&CMP=AFC-CJ-UK-8280252
This made the job easier and will have no second thoughts of removing smd chips again.
Also changed the coupling caps to Nichicon bipolar ,now i had already added a lot of larger value caps to the Teac already via another guy who tweaked his Teac dac and those had already made the Teac very good, but mige0 tweaks have brought a lovely balance to the sound, hearing a lot more detail and nothing over powering anything , also my mids are better, always new i was missing something there.
So good job mige0

 

[mige0]

Happy to hear, that you enjoy your work!

 

[suzziman]

Hello Guys, Ive been using Teac UD H01 for sometime now. Has anyone experienced glitch in Usb after running like 1hour or so? I use Teac HRS player and it works fine for like half and hour or more but later then suddenly stops responding and doesnt play even if closed and reopened? Does this have anything to do with heating up of Tenor chip?

Im using Win10 and also have a heatsink on Tenor. A restart helps though, updated the latest drivers too!

 

[rsgametech]

How does the UD-101 stack up against the 301? I was thinking of putting dip sockets in the 301 and putting bursons or opa1656's in there.

 

[rsgametech]

No sorry, my former post was not meant for the UD-301. My UD-301 went back untouched.

But as for my listening impression, its stock form is quite a step up to the UD-H01 in stock form IMO mostly due to its more refined design, but not enough to come even close to my modded UD-H01.

So I rather decided not the go the same route again, especially as the UD-301 does not feature a dual clock and any 44.1kHz material (and multiples thereof) suffer from the same trans-sampling jitter as the UD-H01 does.

As for you modding, I would suggest to just do the same as I did with the UD-H01. Roll the capacitors first.
For the UD-301 there is a service manual and schematics to dig up in the web, so its a much easier platform for modding.


Good luck

I was thinking of getting the 301 and at least adding sockets to all the opamps so I could play with the sound a little.

Would mind putting the list of mods in a list format? I am tempted to get a H01 after reading this.

 

[lensmanMk2]

Just finsihed (started?) modding mine,im not using headphones with it at the moment so disconnected the HP board,which gave a noticable improvement.

next i replaced all DAC,PSU and opamp caps with a mix of 3300uf/2200uf/1000uf
nichicons and panasonics then some 470uf silmics on the 3.3 rails as they were the caps i had on hand.

im going to make the engineers out there wince,but i just ripped out the SMD caps as gently as i could and used the very handy through holes that were already on the board to seat the caps,neg is on the right hole relative to the top of the + on the screening,check with a meter first though!

DAC sounded horrific when i first got it,even my onkyo soundcard blew it away;but now its superb much better then even my old cambridge audio dacmagic plus which sounded a bit clinical and lacking warmth,great bass on the teac now,good attack without sounding clinical,very happy with it!

quick question...on the output coupling caps for the 5532's are all of the jamicon 100uf used for coupling both the RCA and XLR output?or are the micas just for the RCA's?also is there anything stopping me from replacing the output electros with some 4.7 wima polys,as theyre just standard soic 5532s?

thanks for the great thread guys,enjoyed it!

 

[Extol 3D]

Hello everyone this is my first post!
I am a network enginner from Greece and this thread inspired me so much I decided to create an account here and start my modding journey!
So recently I acquired my first pair of headphones (Audio Technica a990z) and a used Teac UD-H01 from ebay at about 130euros and I started searching for mods.
I also liked this hobby so much that I got myself basic soldering equipment and I am planning to get a multimeter too soon.
I noticed that this is an old thread and the basic 2 gurus of it @mige0 and @weissi are not active anymore.
I have limited soldering and electronic skills but I think they are growing fast and maybe with a bit help from you guys I could pimp this baby to bones.
Pictures help me a lot because I can just copy stuff and move on easier.
Anyone out there that managed to make the discrete usb +/or TINA board mod? Any input is highly appreciated!

Thanks again and glad to be here!