Philips CD100 won't play disc

[partsman]

Hi everyone,
New to these sorts of thing but I need help with my Philips cd100 player.Bought in 1984 been my pride and joy. Not had heavy use and worked before putting in storage. however it now will not play cd's. Powers up arm centres in arc and track lights all come on , goes to track 1 then nothing.Found small clear plastic piece which looks to have dropped off R.H side under lid where switch contact is. Looks to have been stuck on with 2 plastic spot welds?Does this switch control play mode and is opened and closed by this plastic piece?
will it damage anything if I test by taping switch together under lid?
any picture from that area would help as i don't know which way it should be re-glued back on.Is the switch to tell the player the lid is down? as a safety feature?
Any help advice would be greatly appreciated.
It is great player with all original box, manuals and original Philips C.D.
and hopefully nothing too serious is wrong with it>

 

[Tromperie]

Might be time to switch to something like Daphile, which is what i have used for around five years. Use an old computer, set it up, rip all of the CDs, and control everything with your phone.

 

[Galu]

Yes, play probably won't commence until that switch is depressed. This would be to ensure the lid is closed so there is no danger from the laser. You will have to figure out some way to make the lid operate the switch, but you should be able to test that the system is working by taping the switch.
Search this forum for philips cd100. There are other potential faults including dirty brushes in the disc drive spindle motor and intermittent solder connections on the circuit boards.

 

[palucca]

hello partsman,

fix the plastic part with a 2 components glue. Also change the condensatoren in the power supply. Here a link for the parts:

PHILIPS CD 100+101 Player Netzteil Elkos VISHAY power supply recap recapping kit | eBay

Thena resolder the pins of the power IC in power supply and the transistor point in the focus amp and the radialamp

kind regards

Rüdiger

 

[partsman]

BIG THANK-YOU.

Thank's for the tips everyone, Galu you've confirmed my thoughts on the switch and palucca you pic with the position of the plastic part is really great.
I will let you all know how I get on repairing it.

 

[partsman]

Hi guys, quick update to everyone, reglued plastic piece in position on to lid mechanism.
Would not read disc spun very slow then stopped, kept trying and it spun a bit longer each try. Left on for about 1 hour and tried again. WOW it’s reading disc, tracks, search etc just like new. Sounds great not bad for 34 year old . All tips on forums much appreciated Thanks.

 

[palucca]

hello partsman,
you wrote: Left on for about 1 hour and tried again. WOW it’s reading disc. This is typical for old caps in the power supply. Yesterday I repaired a CD 100 and the same phenomenon. I recaped the power supply and the problem are solve. The servicemanuel do you find on hifiengine.com. But you can also order the caps on ebay. So you have all together.


kind regards

Rüdiger

 

[partsman]

Thanks again for your comments. Been using it now for last 3 days and it is working without any issues.
I have no in-depth knowledge to do anymore so will hope it stays as it is.
Thanks again

 

[wyan]

Hi, I am trying to re-cap CD100 but not sure what to use as a replacement for non-polar cap C2214 (15uf, 16V). Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[palucca]

dear wyan, its not necessary, do change this condersator. But when you want, then take a normal condensator or a film capacitors. I make a measurement this condensator last week, and he has the full capacity.
kind regards

Rüdiger

 

[anatech]

Hi wyan,

Hi, I am trying to re-cap CD100

Why? Is this a problem fix, or are you just doing it "because"?

-Chris

 

[jean-paul]

so will hope it stays as it is.

Hope does not solve ageing parts. Just replace the caps or have them replaced by someone who has the skills.

 

[wyan]

Hi, Rudiger,


Thanks. I thought about film capacitor but one with 15uf would be really big. Can I go smaller? What normal cap would you recommend? Since I am about to replace all the electrolytic caps, I would rather also replace this one as well. As for the axial caps, I will leave them alone. Thanks.





WYAN

 

[jean-paul]

If you mean cap 2217 (15 µF nonpolar cap), it is replacable by a 3.3 uF polar cap. Thus, since progress has been made with regards to size, you can even use a film cap 3.3 µF Wima MKS2 in 5 mm pitch. This cap 2217 regularly fails and was changed in later production CD100. Please see info here:

PHILIPS CD 100+101 Player Netzteil Elkos VISHAY power supply recap recapping kit | eBay

* Axial caps that are old and worn out also need to be replaced. These CD players are 35 years old, don't gamble and hope you can get away with it.

 

[wyan]

If you mean cap 2217 (15 µF nonpolar cap), it is replacable by a 3.3 uF polar cap. Thus, since progress has been made with regards to size, you can even use a film cap 3.3 µF Wima MKS2 in 5 mm pitch. This cap 2217 regularly fails and was changed in later production CD100. Please see info here:

PHILIPS CD 100+101 Player Netzteil Elkos VISHAY power supply recap recapping kit | eBay

* Axial caps that are old and worn out also need to be replaced. These CD players are 35 years old, don't gamble and hope you can get away with it.

Thanks. The CD100 I have has philips 3.3uf in 2217 so I am going to replace it with another. Easy swap. Not sure about 2214 though. I will consider axial caps as well. The CD player is very easy to disassemble. Just need to remember the correct connections (Philips alternate those connectors with black/white color so not so hard either).

 

[jean-paul]

If you change caps AND resolder the complete device it will last for another 35 years I guess

 

[wyan]

Hi wyan,

Why? Is this a problem fix, or are you just doing it "because"?

-Chris

It sit in the closet for two years and when I took it out a few days ago it would not play. It rotated a few turns and stopped. I powered it on for a few hours and it worked again. I guess I still need to replace the caps. The CD player is easy to disassemble any way and I always need to order caps now and then with various projects.

 

[wyan]

If you change caps AND resolder the complete device it will last for another 35 years I guess

I certainly hope so. They say the CDM0 laser actually last very long. And it plays lovely. Maybe not so many details as modern couterparts but it has certain taste that draws.

 

[jean-paul]

It has 14 bit conversion which is the way to go in digital audio

 

[wyan]

Update: I digged the archives and found that the earliest CD100 actually has polarized Philips 128 series 15uf 16V electrolytic caps at 2214 and 2217 positioin. The 128 series cap has rated life of 20,000. I suppose that these two are critical. Later on cap 2217 was replaced but a regular philips 3.3uf electrolytic cap, polarized; and cap 2214 was replaced by a non-polar electrolytic 15uf 16V cap.



So I ended up replacing cap 2217 with a 3.3uf wima film, and cap 2214 with a Nichicon ULD long life electrolytic. I have also replaced all other electrolytic caps including axial ones. Works very well. And the sound character does not change, but less muddy. I guess the cap replacement really clean the power supplies a lot. Cheers.