Mick_F said:
That's actually not a bad idea Mick. They (whoever they are) say it's better to leave computers on as opposed to turning them on and off all the time - reducing wear on the PS I suppose. Being that the PS1 has a SMPS that would probably also apply.
My only question, is the laser continuously on too ????
-Ken
Depends for leaving things on, you put more wear on some parts and less on some the real problem is the startup rush current. If it can be reduced, then turning on and off makes no problems.
A way to remove the startup sound? Put some muting relays and make them unmute after a few seconds.
Also, from the free service manual of an other PSX I found, the 7.2v line is only used to feed a 7805. I wonder if PSU mods could be done around this...
A way to remove the startup sound? Put some muting relays and make them unmute after a few seconds.
Also, from the free service manual of an other PSX I found, the 7.2v line is only used to feed a 7805. I wonder if PSU mods could be done around this...
My light bulbs always go when I turn on the light. 
But there are probably pros and cons.
The laser turns off by itself.
I have been thinking of relays. But it's not so much the tune as the time delay. It's not a problem when I use my tube amp, which takes long enough to heat up that I don't notice it. Still, it's one of the things that I wouldn't mind getting rid of. I won't lose any sleep, though.
But there are probably pros and cons.The laser turns off by itself.
I have been thinking of relays. But it's not so much the tune as the time delay. It's not a problem when I use my tube amp, which takes long enough to heat up that I don't notice it. Still, it's one of the things that I wouldn't mind getting rid of. I won't lose any sleep, though.
Hi
I like the mute idea using solenoids
How about a very simple mute/delay circuit
running off the 7805? Could it reset if the
reset button is pushed too? Startup is a bit of a pain
without a screen sometimes.-(( That little button get
pressed often! I supposed one of those little LCD Sony
screens would solve the operating in the dark problem.
Were they ever PAL ones? Did they throw out even more RF?
Regards
AnthonyPT
I like the mute idea using solenoids
How about a very simple mute/delay circuit
running off the 7805? Could it reset if the
reset button is pushed too? Startup is a bit of a pain
without a screen sometimes.
-(( That little button getpressed often! I supposed one of those little LCD Sony
screens would solve the operating in the dark problem.
Were they ever PAL ones? Did they throw out even more RF?
Regards
AnthonyPT
Attachments
Hi
One of my SCPH1002s does go to the menu
only some of the time with CDRs. It sometimes gets
flustered with a burnt CD and without
a screen I have to use guesswork and
listen for what the Greystation drive
is doing with it! The PS2 clone remote is very
limited in PS1 mode, but convenient. Hence
a reset saves a lot a fooling about and
often fixes it and remember, without a
screen you have to know the keystrokes for
operation! Otherwise this unit is a great tracker;
no complaints there!
Hard to find cheap small used LCD screens
in OZ. Naturally it gets better as time goes
by. Have a few CBM 1804s Amiga monitors
but big and not for the bedroom where one of
my three running playstations (SCPH1002s)
lives and performs. Hence the LCD unit above
in the picture caught my eye. Get rid of the
speakers but the hinge might be useful-)).
Regards
AnthonyPT
One of my SCPH1002s does go to the menu
only some of the time with CDRs. It sometimes gets
flustered with a burnt CD and without
a screen I have to use guesswork and
listen for what the Greystation drive
is doing with it! The PS2 clone remote is very
limited in PS1 mode, but convenient. Hence
a reset saves a lot a fooling about and
often fixes it and remember, without a
screen you have to know the keystrokes for
operation! Otherwise this unit is a great tracker;
no complaints there!
Hard to find cheap small used LCD screens
in OZ. Naturally it gets better as time goes
by. Have a few CBM 1804s Amiga monitors
but big and not for the bedroom where one of
my three running playstations (SCPH1002s)
lives and performs. Hence the LCD unit above
in the picture caught my eye. Get rid of the
speakers but the hinge might be useful
-)).Regards
AnthonyPT
As promised, I have updated the article on modification of the output stage of the PS1 on my website .
It now shows a different set of shielded wires going from the blocker caps to the RCAs.
Mick
It now shows a different set of shielded wires going from the blocker caps to the RCAs.
Mick
Mick_F said:
OK Mick so when i tried to use very small diameter coax it just would not cooperate with me. bending the coax in a small area, through the hole and soldered to the cap seemed to put too much stress on the joint and the coax always fought back
So as well as being an excellent writer (in English) , diyer, and photographer, your other hobby is :
Attachments
Thanks, Jonathan!
To be honest, it was not difficult with the cable I used. It is relatively thin coax cable and stiffness was not an issue.
Actually it could be done even more sophisticated: One could solder the shield on one side to a ground point on the board in order to have all RFI actively shorted to ground. The way I did it, shielding is only passive. Seems to be enough, though.
Mick
I have just done Mick's "Replacing the output stage."
I hear a difference. The bass is improved, the area the PSX in. But it's past midnight, so any serious listening will have to wait.
I'm stupid. I decided to replace the suspension as well. Because I use these big military-grade caps, I have to place them so I won't be able remove the metal top completely. That I knew. So I decided first to do the suspension. First when I have that working I would go to the output. Like thinking people do it. And I had all reasons to be extra careful since I used stuff not entirely suitable. The screws I needed were temporarily sold out so I had to use a couple of others. Of course, I got all the problems I feared. 2 hours work. Another 2 fixing stuff.
The remote receiver in the photo is just to illustrate where it will go, when I get there.
I hear a difference. The bass is improved, the area the PSX in. But it's past midnight, so any serious listening will have to wait.
I'm stupid. I decided to replace the suspension as well. Because I use these big military-grade caps, I have to place them so I won't be able remove the metal top completely. That I knew. So I decided first to do the suspension. First when I have that working I would go to the output. Like thinking people do it. And I had all reasons to be extra careful since I used stuff not entirely suitable. The screws I needed were temporarily sold out so I had to use a couple of others. Of course, I got all the problems I feared. 2 hours work. Another 2 fixing stuff.
The remote receiver in the photo is just to illustrate where it will go, when I get there.
Attachments
The original stage cuts bass a lot. (Was one of the PSX's characteristics as a CDP also.) I think it's because some TVs would have had a hard time handling it.
Just keep the screws loose and it should work like the original suspension.
Use a small 555 timer or something similar for the relay switching.
As for the reset button, there's no need for it. If you blocked the cover-open switch, all you have to do is to wire a switch that cuts the connection of the switch when pressed. It will make a faster "reset". I also saw that you can just put a new disc, press play, and it will work anyways.
Just keep the screws loose and it should work like the original suspension.
Hi
I like the mute idea using solenoids
How about a very simple mute/delay circuit
running off the 7805? Could it reset if the
reset button is pushed too? Startup is a bit of a pain
without a screen sometimes.
pressed often! I supposed one of those little LCD Sony
screens would solve the operating in the dark problem.
Were they ever PAL ones? Did they throw out even more RF?
Use a small 555 timer or something similar for the relay switching.
As for the reset button, there's no need for it. If you blocked the cover-open switch, all you have to do is to wire a switch that cuts the connection of the switch when pressed. It will make a faster "reset". I also saw that you can just put a new disc, press play, and it will work anyways.
Indeed, I had to loosen the screws. The CDM got bent out of shape enough for the disc to scrape against the plastic. The wrong screws I don't mind. DIY and tweaking often comes down to using what you have at hand. I used professional microphone cable because it would be messy with four coax cables.
The PSX sounds great. Not only was it too late last night, I wanted to give the caps (4.7 uF) a workout before giving my final judgement. It didn't sound good at all last night. Increased bass, but all stuffy. It sounds more "modern" now. The rolled off bass gave the PSX that cosy vintage sound, which I do like.
Edit: And you was able to understand the sentence that I for some reason (tired) never finished.
The PSX sounds great. Not only was it too late last night, I wanted to give the caps (4.7 uF) a workout before giving my final judgement. It didn't sound good at all last night. Increased bass, but all stuffy. It sounds more "modern" now. The rolled off bass gave the PSX that cosy vintage sound, which I do like.
Edit: And you was able to understand the sentence that I for some reason (tired) never finished.
Your screw heads seem quite high. I guess that it's hard to prevent the CD from scraping on them. Either the CDM is way too bent, either the screw heads are too high... And have you removed the little tab on one side? Maybe that's why it wasn't flat?
Oh, that's the trick! Well maybe you could change the caps to roll off the bass again.
As for me, I still plug the DAC directly in the amp(no caps and resistors) and I find it sounds pretty good compared to a lot of CDPs anyways.
Oh, that's the trick! Well maybe you could change the caps to roll off the bass again.
As for me, I still plug the DAC directly in the amp(no caps and resistors) and I find it sounds pretty good compared to a lot of CDPs anyways.
That's not the heads of the screws, or bolts. I use bolts for hex keys, the only 4x16 mm bolts they had in stock. They're not ideal, but work.
The CD scraped the actual CDM, not the cabinet. I did do some filing on the inside of the cabinet.
The PSX sounds so great now, I can live without the roll off. I will give no caps I try next time, or on whatever project comes first. I like the idea of not using caps. I couldn't say if the caps add or detract.
The CD scraped the actual CDM, not the cabinet. I did do some filing on the inside of the cabinet.
The PSX sounds so great now, I can live without the roll off. I will give no caps I try next time, or on whatever project comes first. I like the idea of not using caps. I couldn't say if the caps add or detract.
That's not a good idea : There's a lot of DC current going out of the DAC. (Power on/off and turning up/down the volume make the speakers move a lot)
I use it like this because I don't want to pay $20 shipping for $7 of parts, but it sounds great.
You can use no caps if your amp has some.
