I am surprised that Mick.F hasn't 'dropped into' this thread!
It's well worth taking a look at his PS1 modifictions site!
It's well worth taking a look at his PS1 modifictions site!
Hi Nuuk,
thanks for the link! (At least, this one is in English)
I bought a SCPH-1001 off eBay the other day.
They are easy to get as everybody is selling them. Type SCPH-1001 or 1002 and you get results. There were about 5 1001s and 5 1002s when I bought mine.
I already have the SCPH-101 (PSOne) and I can tell it doesn't sound pretty good.
thanks for the link! (At least, this one is in English)
I bought a SCPH-1001 off eBay the other day.
They are easy to get as everybody is selling them. Type SCPH-1001 or 1002 and you get results. There were about 5 1001s and 5 1002s when I bought mine.
I already have the SCPH-101 (PSOne) and I can tell it doesn't sound pretty good.
the Sony '1001
still haven't gotten around to doing anything with this. Got sidelined due to the recent addition of a pocketbike.
DragonMaster, a fellow canuck, who'd a thunk it! (although several on this forum wave the maple leaf )
I can say that the build quality of the PS is superior to the PD- 54 (Elite) I have. I also have a cdp950 (not sure if this became an ES component), and of course the quality there is the highest I have seen in some time. I did own an early Technics SLP8 cd player which is the only thing that I've popped the hood on that comes close. Some of the CALs were nice, and used the Matsushita transport with glass optics instead of plastics as is often the case. I suspect high end Sony, Matsushita, Pioneer, Phillips and Teac (Esoteric) transports all must be very good. Everything else , regardless of brand relies on one of these for their transport design (or Chinese knock offs).
I would classify the 1001 on par at least with the PD-54, mainly a different presentation, 20 rows in for the PS and the back third of the house for the Pioneer.
Now I know some will read this and comment about the Pioneer, but it has served me well. Is it perfect? No. But I have always enjoyed music through this device. A little internal dampening, and the addition of the IEE end were significant. I use a Tiff purple power cord on it. It just seems to work.
I suspect though, that the addition of a better case, and an IEE end, as well as some dampening will result in something pretty funny for $20 USD including remote. Pretty sure the addition of a high quality output buffer won't hurt, but as I had previously stated, through the McCormick micro-line drive, there is plenty of gain and no appreciable noise or lack of dynamics.
I'll be keeping my eye on this thread and will post my findings, just as soon as I finish off other projects that were started first.
still haven't gotten around to doing anything with this. Got sidelined due to the recent addition of a pocketbike.
DragonMaster, a fellow canuck, who'd a thunk it! (although several on this forum wave the maple leaf
)I can say that the build quality of the PS is superior to the PD- 54 (Elite) I have. I also have a cdp950 (not sure if this became an ES component), and of course the quality there is the highest I have seen in some time. I did own an early Technics SLP8 cd player which is the only thing that I've popped the hood on that comes close. Some of the CALs were nice, and used the Matsushita transport with glass optics instead of plastics as is often the case. I suspect high end Sony, Matsushita, Pioneer, Phillips and Teac (Esoteric) transports all must be very good. Everything else , regardless of brand relies on one of these for their transport design (or Chinese knock offs).
I would classify the 1001 on par at least with the PD-54, mainly a different presentation, 20 rows in for the PS and the back third of the house for the Pioneer.
Now I know some will read this and comment about the Pioneer, but it has served me well. Is it perfect? No. But I have always enjoyed music through this device. A little internal dampening, and the addition of the IEE end were significant. I use a Tiff purple power cord on it. It just seems to work.
I suspect though, that the addition of a better case, and an IEE end, as well as some dampening will result in something pretty funny for $20 USD including remote. Pretty sure the addition of a high quality output buffer won't hurt, but as I had previously stated, through the McCormick micro-line drive, there is plenty of gain and no appreciable noise or lack of dynamics.
I'll be keeping my eye on this thread and will post my findings, just as soon as I finish off other projects that were started first.
a really good cd player fer $20
DragonMaster,
I paid $19.95 (no GST) for my 1001 at a local pawn shop, $4.57 +GST for a "Hip Gear" remote.. so about USD $ 20 for the pair. I already own some car audio amp cases, and some acrylic (for the top sliding door).
er OK, I have to buy an AC power input , a cord and I may have to buy some shielding. I would like to buy an LCD screen so that it need not be attached to a TV to navigate.
I wish more of our German friends with first hand knowledge, or for that matter ANY who have listened to modded (or not) Greystations or done modifications would post there results. Someplace I recall Steven Rochlin of enjoythemusic.com made mention of the Greystations, but I cannot find the source or reference. I guess I'll have to email him and see if he recalls the context.
Ok and I'm not saying that this thing will be the best, just that it could be a lot of fun for very little money. Kinda like the T amp. Some may argue they're ggGGGGGreat! (in my best Tony the Tiger voice), but I don't think anyone is saying they are the BEST on the planet.
DragonMaster,
I paid $19.95 (no GST) for my 1001 at a local pawn shop, $4.57 +GST for a "Hip Gear" remote.. so about USD $ 20 for the pair. I already own some car audio amp cases, and some acrylic (for the top sliding door).
er OK, I have to buy an AC power input , a cord and I may have to buy some shielding. I would like to buy an LCD screen so that it need not be attached to a TV to navigate.
I wish more of our German friends with first hand knowledge, or for that matter ANY who have listened to modded (or not) Greystations or done modifications would post there results. Someplace I recall Steven Rochlin of enjoythemusic.com made mention of the Greystations, but I cannot find the source or reference. I guess I'll have to email him and see if he recalls the context.
Ok and I'm not saying that this thing will be the best, just that it could be a lot of fun for very little money. Kinda like the T amp. Some may argue they're ggGGGGGreat! (in my best Tony the Tiger voice), but I don't think anyone is saying they are the BEST on the planet.
OK so where is the play button ?
My local GAMES store (UK PC gaming store ) were selling off second hand PSones and I picked one up for £10 (model 1002 with dual RCA's
I want to use it without a TV. I understand that you use the controller to access normal cd player functions but has anyone got what the key sequence on the controller is to play, stop and skip tracks ?
My local GAMES store (UK PC gaming store ) were selling off second hand PSones and I picked one up for £10 (model 1002 with dual RCA's
I want to use it without a TV. I understand that you use the controller to access normal cd player functions but has anyone got what the key sequence on the controller is to play, stop and skip tracks ?
On the 1001, select is stop.
The unit I've got is really disgusting (Lots of brown dirt) but works!
But the controller is intermittent. That's not a problem as I can either fix it, buy a new one or use a PSOne controller.
The laser track is just a bit loose. Is there something I could do to prevent more wear? Put black(graphite) oil? Lithium grease? Vaseline?
If some people have problems, I guess that putting layers of tape could fix it.
The pickup box is made of metal. I don't know if it means something but I think I read something about it in the topic.
The unit I've got is really disgusting (Lots of brown dirt) but works!
But the controller is intermittent. That's not a problem as I can either fix it, buy a new one or use a PSOne controller.
The laser track is just a bit loose. Is there something I could do to prevent more wear? Put black(graphite) oil? Lithium grease? Vaseline?
If some people have problems, I guess that putting layers of tape could fix it.
The pickup box is made of metal. I don't know if it means something but I think I read something about it in the topic.
Anyone here has a dead transport?
The PSX I just got has a track with not too much wear, and the laser reads fine, it's just that a gear moving the pickup has 2 broken teeth. They are partially broken so it's not too bad but the broken bits are getting between the other teeth and are blocking the pickup.
What else, I could get a new transport at the same place as the replacement joysticks for N64 controller that I need. New transports are just 20$.
The PSX I just got has a track with not too much wear, and the laser reads fine, it's just that a gear moving the pickup has 2 broken teeth. They are partially broken so it's not too bad but the broken bits are getting between the other teeth and are blocking the pickup.
What else, I could get a new transport at the same place as the replacement joysticks for N64 controller that I need. New transports are just 20$.
I just fonud a site with LOTS of useful infos about the transport especially.
http://psxhome.free.fr/ The problem is that it's in French.
http://psxhome.free.fr/ The problem is that it's in French.
Change opamp
I just manage to changed the opamp in my Ps1000, the AD826 i have on hand, it run on +5V as it is used on the NJM2100. too lazy to make a separate PS for it. But i manage to build separate housing for the original PS.
For the sound it add a lot more detail, better sound stage put musical instuments quite right perspective, as for the warm and the sikiness as much the same.
Van Hai
I just manage to changed the opamp in my Ps1000, the AD826 i have on hand, it run on +5V as it is used on the NJM2100. too lazy to make a separate PS for it. But i manage to build separate housing for the original PS.
For the sound it add a lot more detail, better sound stage put musical instuments quite right perspective, as for the warm and the sikiness as much the same.
Van Hai
I plan doing the same thing. Is an OPA2228 a good choice?
Someone has a spare transport? Mine has a broken gear. Please...
It works fine as it can read CDs but not completely because of that gear.
Should I just buy a new one? If yes, which one? I could get the same but people tell that the newer revisions are better. The drive from the PSOne (SCPH-101) fits prefectly. I just have to exchange the protective cap. The thing is that I want to keep both the 101 and 1001 working.
About the sound : Both of my PlayStations are stock. No modificcations were done. What can I say? With the only A/B I've done, they sound the same. I guess that the 1001 once modded could be better but for now it's the same.
Someone has a spare transport? Mine has a broken gear. Please...
It works fine as it can read CDs but not completely because of that gear.
Should I just buy a new one? If yes, which one? I could get the same but people tell that the newer revisions are better. The drive from the PSOne (SCPH-101) fits prefectly. I just have to exchange the protective cap. The thing is that I want to keep both the 101 and 1001 working.
About the sound : Both of my PlayStations are stock. No modificcations were done. What can I say? With the only A/B I've done, they sound the same. I guess that the 1001 once modded could be better but for now it's the same.
I completely missed the revival of this thread (thanks Nuuk )
I am using a PS1 since quite a while now and it has become my main CD player. I have modified several and can say that, although they sound very good right out of the box, they can be improved considerably by simple means.
First of all, you should stick to the first version (SCPH 1002, 1001, or 1000, depending on where you live), which can easily be recognized by the RCA jacks on the back. This version has very good parts in it, which were replaced by cheaper and cheaper ones in later versions (5002 to 9002, 102). The differences are considerable. If you like the PSOne (102), you should try the 1002!
The most important things to do: Put the PSU into a separate case, as the laser comes very close to it, particularly at the end of a CD. It will pick up signals and heat.
This job is straightforward but you need a cable with 7 leads.
Also, make sure that the PS1 is properly damped. It needs a damping with a low Eigenfrequency. I use a heavy piece of wood on a rather deflated bicycle inner tube (from a childrens bike), which has an eigenfrequency of a few Hertz. You can use a pillow for a start. That also works quite well.
As for the laser units: The reliability of the ACM, ADM, AEM and BAM should be comparable and indeed they can be exchanged if you remove the upper plate. I have not yet compared the sound. The only laser that should be avoided is the AAM, which is made of plastic only.
I will update my website with an illustration description of the PSU surgery soon.
Mick
)I am using a PS1 since quite a while now and it has become my main CD player. I have modified several and can say that, although they sound very good right out of the box, they can be improved considerably by simple means.
First of all, you should stick to the first version (SCPH 1002, 1001, or 1000, depending on where you live), which can easily be recognized by the RCA jacks on the back. This version has very good parts in it, which were replaced by cheaper and cheaper ones in later versions (5002 to 9002, 102). The differences are considerable. If you like the PSOne (102), you should try the 1002!
The most important things to do: Put the PSU into a separate case, as the laser comes very close to it, particularly at the end of a CD. It will pick up signals and heat.
This job is straightforward but you need a cable with 7 leads.
Also, make sure that the PS1 is properly damped. It needs a damping with a low Eigenfrequency. I use a heavy piece of wood on a rather deflated bicycle inner tube (from a childrens bike), which has an eigenfrequency of a few Hertz. You can use a pillow for a start. That also works quite well.
As for the laser units: The reliability of the ACM, ADM, AEM and BAM should be comparable and indeed they can be exchanged if you remove the upper plate. I have not yet compared the sound. The only laser that should be avoided is the AAM, which is made of plastic only.
I will update my website with an illustration description of the PSU surgery soon.
Mick