Technics SL-P990 disc wont spin unless i help it ..

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Hi MaccAu,

I know this is about a year old conversation, but wondering if you were able to fix your cd player? did you replaced those SMD capacitors? as all the recommendations here my help me fix mine.

My friend gave me her technics sl-p102 cd player manufactured in 1989, which looks practically new except it was dusty. I was able to play about 10 cds, then it quit playing and the symptoms are exactly as described here.

I was really surprised how good it sounds on my system, but I am unable to find a service manual for it on the net.

thanks.


Hi, the p102 lloks to be almost the same machine as the p111, which is based on a very generic technics/panasonic scheme. If that is correct the service manuals for the P520/720, P990, P1200 and many more.. even the portable XP5 uses the same IC.

To check if the problem is on the spindle capacitor, under the spindle there is a PCB with 3 capacitors and a connector, removing that connector might make it work but unreliable, also is you "help" the motor with your hand it might read.

Old technics players are known to have faulty capacitors everywhere, check on the legs for corrosion or darkening on the pcb around the holes.

Good luck and hope you can bring it back to life
 
I will look up those service manuals, thanks!
I got lucky and was able to bring it back to life, I disassembled the drive and gave it a good clean up, but I did not see anything obviously wrong with the board under the laser.
but when I checked the main board I found a resistor burnt or half way burnt that still read about 8.1 ohms, so I replaced it with a 10 ohms, then it started working just fine again.
Thanks for your help!
 
Thats really good, after checking i see your machine has a Soad70a, which had 3 revisions, i believe yours is the first revision and should match with the SL-P200 service manual, if is the second goes with the SL-p370, or if is the newest it goes with the SL-PS700.

Technics players if trasported a lot could also have broken joints, check for them, specially on the connectors
 
Thats really good, after checking i see your machine has a Soad70a, which had 3 revisions, i believe yours is the first revision and should match with the SL-P200 service manual, if is the second goes with the SL-p370, or if is the newest it goes with the SL-PS700.

Technics players if trasported a lot could also have broken joints, check for them, specially on the connectors

do you know what those revisions are about? I found a couple of manuals as you mentioned so I will check them out.
when I had it open I checked as much as I could visually and all seemed fine,
actually the boards do look still brand new.
the only thing I don't like and is that the disc tray is very noisy, but as long as it works, that's all I care. :)
thanks,
 
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do you know what those revisions are about? finding technics manuals seems difficult now a days.
when I had it open I checked as much as I could visually and all seemed fine,
actually the boards do look brand new, even capacitors.
the only thing I don't like and is that the disc tray is very noisy, but as long as it works, that's all I care. :)

on HIFI Engine you can find the manuals, you can find what revision you hav with how many pots your servo board has.

1st revision has 7 or 6 pots and the PCB is green
2nd revision has 6 pots and PCB is yellow
3rd revision has automatic calibration servo and has only one pot, also yellow PCB, this one reads incredible.

All revisions could have failing capacitors, specially 3rd one, smaller capacitors tend to fail on the bottom sealing producing leakage over the PCB.

Also if you post a picture of the inside i can tell you mor about it.

about the tray, complete dismantle, clean and relube and you have it ready for 20 more years.
 
thanks, guys, it is running for now, but eventually I will replace those caps, the resistor I replaced gets hot, so I assume the spindle motor is drawing plenty of current to run.
I have the version that has 6 pots on the drive, but won't touch them as I don't have a test disk nor oscilloscope.
 
thanks, guys, it is running for now, but eventually I will replace those caps, the resistor I replaced gets hot, so I assume the spindle motor is drawing plenty of current to run.
I have the version that has 6 pots on the drive, but won't touch them as I don't have a test disk nor oscilloscope.

not so much, the ones that draw the current are actually the focus and tracking servo, still is not that normal that a resistor heats up, can you post a picture of where is that resistor?.

also the pots rarely need adjustments, specially on those machines who used very noble materials for the lens suspensions and don't wreck with time like the plastic from sony or the rubber from pioneer
 
Ok, so I changed the resistor again and it burned last night after playing 3 cds, it went up in smoke.. attached is the picture.
it is resistor 357 next to the white connector.
 

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Ok, so I changed the resistor again and it burned last night after playing 3 cds, it went up in smoke.. attached is the picture.
it is resistor 357 next to the white connector.

Q351 looks bad, from what i can see the sl-p370 service manual is the same as your machine, even same names, also your burnt resistor is part of the same circuit as the Q351 and drives the spindle motor, maybe the spindle motor is bad, which is quite normal on cd players, or that transistor is failing, also check for cold joints
 
I checked Q351 and it is good, I checked both pairs of transistors for the loading motor and spindle motor and they all tested the same good. so I replaced the burnt transistor, and it is playing as I type. so I think your right the spindle motor must be failing as Q351 and Q352 do get very hot. so I am done with it. thanks for your help PC91.
Cheers!
 
I checked Q351 and it is good, I checked both pairs of transistors for the loading motor and spindle motor and they all tested the same good. so I replaced the burnt transistor, and it is playing as I type. so I think your right the spindle motor must be failing as Q351 and Q352 do get very hot. so I am done with it. thanks for your help PC91.
Cheers!

you can try replacing it, is just a regular dc motor, or you can leave it as donor for a higher end machine, lots of higher end machine used the same mechanism and you might need a laser or servo board
 
I re-flowed several joints on the drive transistors and resistors in the area, as you suggested and it started paying right away. so maybe that was the problem. as now the transistors do get hot during play and the resistor is not burning up. but I will play it more tonight to see how it goes.
None of the joints looked bad to me, but I guess they were.. :)
 
I re-flowed several joints on the drive transistors and resistors in the area, as you suggested and it started paying right away. so maybe that was the problem. as now the transistors do get hot during play and the resistor is not burning up. but I will play it more tonight to see how it goes.
None of the joints looked bad to me, but I guess they were.. :)

So good! also check for cold joints on every component subject to stress or heat, power regulators, phono jacks, etc..
 
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