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The copland cda288 uses the kss-240a
The vrds mechanism in the copland is the cmk 4. Not the same as in vrds 10 or vrds 25.
The vrds mechanism in the copland is the cmk 4. Not the same as in vrds 10 or vrds 25.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello,
could somebody tell me wich laserunit I must buy for a VRDS 10 SE please ?
I think that it's this one http://www.donberg.ie/descript/k/kss151a.htm but I'm not sure ?
Thanks
Pascal
could somebody tell me wich laserunit I must buy for a VRDS 10 SE please ?
I think that it's this one http://www.donberg.ie/descript/k/kss151a.htm but I'm not sure ?
Thanks
Pascal
Teac VRDS models - differences
Guido & all,
I really would like to understand the VRDS series composition better..
VRDS 20 is a souped up VRDS 10 - both are transport + DAC
VRDS T1 is the "transport only" version of the VRDS 10 it seems, right ?
all of these originated around 1993
Now the VRDS 25 is of newer date and there's a special version, the VRDS 25x which features some "selected" components
From some sources on the web I do read that the VRDS P70 model is the transport-only version of the VRDS 25
now what about the VRDS X1, VRDS X2, VRDS T2 and VRDS P30 ? how do these stack up against the rest ? I know in the US a part of these players/transports were marketed under the high end "Esoteric Audio" brand..
Also it seems that the VRDS 7 is one to avoid, some posters claim it has "plastic" platter. What about the others - do they have metal platter ?
any input appreciated
CROSSY
Guido & all,
I really would like to understand the VRDS series composition better..
VRDS 20 is a souped up VRDS 10 - both are transport + DAC
VRDS T1 is the "transport only" version of the VRDS 10 it seems, right ?
all of these originated around 1993
Now the VRDS 25 is of newer date and there's a special version, the VRDS 25x which features some "selected" components
From some sources on the web I do read that the VRDS P70 model is the transport-only version of the VRDS 25
now what about the VRDS X1, VRDS X2, VRDS T2 and VRDS P30 ? how do these stack up against the rest ? I know in the US a part of these players/transports were marketed under the high end "Esoteric Audio" brand..
Also it seems that the VRDS 7 is one to avoid, some posters claim it has "plastic" platter. What about the others - do they have metal platter ?
any input appreciated
CROSSY
P-700
I'm glad this thread has come back to life. I have an Esoteric P-700 which I've been using as my main transport for a while, and I'm interested in mods -- all I've done is replaced the RCA out with a BNC. If anyone can shed some light on that digital servo improvement mentioned above, let me know.
Also, Guido et al: How much trouble is it to put a new clock in this thing? I've got one of your clocks in my DAC (a PCM63K unit); I'm sure you'd argue that it's worth reclocking this transport, too, but how accessible is it?
Third: How good is the digital output transformer/pre-transformer padding on this thing?
Finally: Big flaw with VDRS players is that they have high mechanical noise -- i.e. you can hear them spinning if you're within a couple metres of them (assuming there's a quiet passage on). I HAVE done a lot of mods to this end - - damping sheets inside, Sorbothene, etc, but it's still not silent. Thoughts?
I'm glad this thread has come back to life. I have an Esoteric P-700 which I've been using as my main transport for a while, and I'm interested in mods -- all I've done is replaced the RCA out with a BNC. If anyone can shed some light on that digital servo improvement mentioned above, let me know.
Also, Guido et al: How much trouble is it to put a new clock in this thing? I've got one of your clocks in my DAC (a PCM63K unit); I'm sure you'd argue that it's worth reclocking this transport, too, but how accessible is it?
Third: How good is the digital output transformer/pre-transformer padding on this thing?
Finally: Big flaw with VDRS players is that they have high mechanical noise -- i.e. you can hear them spinning if you're within a couple metres of them (assuming there's a quiet passage on). I HAVE done a lot of mods to this end - - damping sheets inside, Sorbothene, etc, but it's still not silent. Thoughts?
I did a Tent XO3 and XO power supply in a P700 a few months ago very sucessfull, space is a problem the XO3 had to go under the main board mounted upside down attached to the main boards soldered side and the supply on it's side near the mains input. The results were more relaxed sound (not so edgy) and bigger more 3D sound stage, well worth the effort. (and do use the XO3's spdif output, better than the Teac's spdif )
Compared to my own Teac VRDS-T1 (with XO3 & XOsupply) the T1 just edges ahead of the P-700 (with XO3&XOsupply)
Cheers George
Compared to my own Teac VRDS-T1 (with XO3 & XOsupply) the T1 just edges ahead of the P-700 (with XO3&XOsupply)
Cheers George
XO modding a pure transport ?
I got a used P-700 from France .. not having it before me yet.
First of all, I'm not really versed in doing these moddings myself (lacking the highdensity-soldiering capability and the proper T&M gear) but I think I can understand the backgrounds well enough.
Conceptually, in some settings I could think about these low jitter clocks as "overkill". If your external DAC does resampling, it should kill any jitter with it (such as the Apogee Rosetta wich I plan to obtain) . So improving the motor stage and the PSU might appear more straightforward than outfitting the P-700 with an ultra stable oscillator.
There is even another potential oddity here if one uses an external DAC that does resampling: I do know that many of the VRDS series - definitely the VRDS 25 - use resampling internally already - in a rather tricky way to eliminate jitter. Now if this design is being used in the P-700 as well (which I don't know yet) another resampling stage in an external DAC might not be advisable.. (the signal would be resampled twice)
as always .. you solve one issue and a whole lot of new questions appear..
rgrds
CROSSY
I got a used P-700 from France .. not having it before me yet.
First of all, I'm not really versed in doing these moddings myself (lacking the highdensity-soldiering capability and the proper T&M gear) but I think I can understand the backgrounds well enough.
Conceptually, in some settings I could think about these low jitter clocks as "overkill". If your external DAC does resampling, it should kill any jitter with it (such as the Apogee Rosetta wich I plan to obtain) . So improving the motor stage and the PSU might appear more straightforward than outfitting the P-700 with an ultra stable oscillator.
There is even another potential oddity here if one uses an external DAC that does resampling: I do know that many of the VRDS series - definitely the VRDS 25 - use resampling internally already - in a rather tricky way to eliminate jitter. Now if this design is being used in the P-700 as well (which I don't know yet) another resampling stage in an external DAC might not be advisable.. (the signal would be resampled twice)
as always .. you solve one issue and a whole lot of new questions appear..
rgrds
CROSSY
Re: XO modding a pure transport ?
"Overkill" hardly, I've had two Teac VRDS-T1's side by side one fitted with the XO3 and XOsupply the other standard. both going into a very good dac that had 2x coax inputs switchable.
Both transports same disc switched between the two and the difference is night and day, the modded one has more a relaxed presentation and a sound stage that is much larger and 3d. the non modded one collapses the sound back into the speakers and brightens/thins the sound out.
Cheers George
Crossy said:
"Overkill" hardly, I've had two Teac VRDS-T1's side by side one fitted with the XO3 and XOsupply the other standard. both going into a very good dac that had 2x coax inputs switchable.
Both transports same disc switched between the two and the difference is night and day, the modded one has more a relaxed presentation and a sound stage that is much larger and 3d. the non modded one collapses the sound back into the speakers and brightens/thins the sound out.
Cheers George
George, slightly OT buy how do you handle the input switching on that DAC?
I've got one of mine rigged to switch between two SPDIF inputs, using two relays positioned as close to the BNC connectors (and the PCB input) as possible. Still, I worry that this is a messy way to do things. Any advice on switching schemes?
I've got one of mine rigged to switch between two SPDIF inputs, using two relays positioned as close to the BNC connectors (and the PCB input) as possible. Still, I worry that this is a messy way to do things. Any advice on switching schemes?
Yeah, I've got a similar switching scheme in a D-700 DAC, which I use in my kitchen setup (it came with the transport). It uses the same switching scheme. It's a row of relays... I actually worry about the lead lengths on it, esp. given their proximity to the power supply. That's my concern: How do you implement an input-switching scheme that's not going to act as a big antenna?
Some people here have suggested air-wiring the zobel components straight onto the BNC leads to keep things crisp... In a switched setup, do we suggest having redundant sets of passive components wired onto the relay outputs, or just one set close to the input transformer?
Some people here have suggested air-wiring the zobel components straight onto the BNC leads to keep things crisp... In a switched setup, do we suggest having redundant sets of passive components wired onto the relay outputs, or just one set close to the input transformer?
A dumb question perhaps, but...
how does one tell a VRDS 25 and a VRDS 25X apart?
Does the X version have "VRDS 25X" printed/silk-screened on the face plate?
The reason I ask is that I have the opportunity to purchase a VRDS 25. The vendor is "almost certain" that it's a 25X, but also admits that it says "VRDS 25" (no X) on both front and back plates.
Date of manufacture is December 1995, which strikes me as too early for the X version, which I understood was manufactured only from 1997 or 1998.
If anyone could suggest a fool-proof test for distinguishing a VRDS 25X from a "plain" VRDS 25, I'd be most grateful.
I did phone the Teac parts depot in the U.S. and confirmed that the 25 and the 25X have separate service manuals, so I assume that there are at least some electronic differences.
Thanks in advance,
Joel Tatelman.
how does one tell a VRDS 25 and a VRDS 25X apart?
Does the X version have "VRDS 25X" printed/silk-screened on the face plate?
The reason I ask is that I have the opportunity to purchase a VRDS 25. The vendor is "almost certain" that it's a 25X, but also admits that it says "VRDS 25" (no X) on both front and back plates.
Date of manufacture is December 1995, which strikes me as too early for the X version, which I understood was manufactured only from 1997 or 1998.
If anyone could suggest a fool-proof test for distinguishing a VRDS 25X from a "plain" VRDS 25, I'd be most grateful.
I did phone the Teac parts depot in the U.S. and confirmed that the 25 and the 25X have separate service manuals, so I assume that there are at least some electronic differences.
Thanks in advance,
Joel Tatelman.
Dear all members,
I read that you all know Teac vrds and I'm searching for information.
I have a vrds P500 on a Cayin da2 DAC (6922 valves).
I have an opportunity on a vrds 9 for around 330 €, almost new.
Is it worth upgrading from a P500 to vrds 9 drive ?
Or should I get a vrds 10se or 25x ?
Thank you !
I read that you all know Teac vrds and I'm searching for information.
I have a vrds P500 on a Cayin da2 DAC (6922 valves).
I have an opportunity on a vrds 9 for around 330 €, almost new.
Is it worth upgrading from a P500 to vrds 9 drive ?
Or should I get a vrds 10se or 25x ?
Thank you !