Sorry Salar I didnt see your message until now, if you are still interested goto the Taobao website and search for CDM4
I see that they sell complete cases with cutouts for displays and switches. Do you know if there is a complete "kit"? All the associated electronics that need to be added to a basic transport mechanism is beyond my capabilities. I could probably figure out some nice low noise linear PS with a little help but all the digital controls and readouts is going to be a problem.
Maybe there is a good build thread some where?
Thanks
BillWojo
Maybe there is a good build thread some where?
Thanks
BillWojo
Dont buy the complete chassis, you will need to find the specific electronics to work with that chassis which is not easy to find and the philips board will never fit in those chinese chassis. Easiest thing to do is buy a complete working CDM4 philips player with a remote control. Make a chassis that will fit the philips main board. Mount the laser mech to the top plate and extend the IR diode to the front of the chassis and you can control everything via remote. If you really need the lcd display you will have to cut a window in your chassis for it.
pioneer dv-300 which is used by goldmund, look at lampizator post
goldmundizator
I have got pioneer dv-355 for $40 last month and it's stock spdif coaxial is much better than my modded qls qa-550.
now i'm still waiting for dv-300 if i'm lucky enough and copy lampizator mod, because dv-355 has different chip and not possible to trace
goldmundizator
I have got pioneer dv-355 for $40 last month and it's stock spdif coaxial is much better than my modded qls qa-550.
now i'm still waiting for dv-300 if i'm lucky enough and copy lampizator mod, because dv-355 has different chip and not possible to trace
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If you want the exact pioneer that goldmund used it is the DV-588A, it has additional regulators not found on dv-300
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have the DV-588A, its nothing special. These dvd based players never sound good to my ears
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this mod is just for fun, i want to try spdif mod which is not seem possible on dv-355
for serious build, i have tentlabs cdpro kit reclock which is still on progress
If you mean jitter on the bit-flow signal to be digital-to-analog converted, you are wrong. There is a buffer (memory) which every red word from the disc is written to before it is fed the D/A chip and the buffer is big enough to fit a number of samples. Jitter is a timing error in the D/A process that is of a fraction of the sample speed and is easily eaten by the buffer. It is caused by an inferior clock/oscillator. This is just an old misconception. Maybe a confusion with "jitter" in the laser/pit/disc reading process which has nothing to do with D/A conversion precision - these 2 are vastly different and shall not be mixed up.
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yep, thanks.
I meant, reading error & extrapolation circuit correction causes problems, time error comes from the correction circuit during the process cause it is creating iiregularity on the clock signal, i.e. jitter which can be heard : less quiete background, a little more sort of brightness in the top end. Buffer and/or fifo changes not that and it can be heard in a cd player.
Pioneer inversed platin and old Philips are excellent advices from people whom have tried. I add some should putt better parts on the spidf signal an match the impedance too (avoid rca jacket & plug)
I meant, reading error & extrapolation circuit correction causes problems, time error comes from the correction circuit during the process cause it is creating iiregularity on the clock signal, i.e. jitter which can be heard : less quiete background, a little more sort of brightness in the top end. Buffer and/or fifo changes not that and it can be heard in a cd player.
Pioneer inversed platin and old Philips are excellent advices from people whom have tried. I add some should putt better parts on the spidf signal an match the impedance too (avoid rca jacket & plug)
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Hey - I know it's off topic - the box underneath, looks like a project you've made. Where did you source the knob you have on it? I wanted to find one like a Pass Labs knob, brushed finish, but haven't found any available seperately yet.
Thanks in advance for a reply!
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