Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

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Parts Connexion seem to regularly have Duelund at 60% off which makes them more achievable. I’ve read on this thread one builder who after installing Duelund with Tent Clock found that they could not discern any further improvement going to NeutronStar clock. So if you can stretch to one or the other that would be something to think about.

Also if you do not already have one of the metal pucks .. I have used both - but would totally recommend going for the brass as it is like a magic trick - in my system the leap in sound quality going from alu to brass was equivalent in magnitude as adding a better clock.
 
Hi,

V1=V2=V3=V4=5V
V1 is part or LA9242 radio processing section. The power supply for this must be very low noise.
V1 also will provide laser ccs and will affect PIN detector reference voltage. V1 will spike 150mA and a 300mA-500mA fast recovery power supply will be the best here.
I use as reference a dam1021 Soekris dac. Using Zeno for V1 add deepness and extended harmonics.

Regards,
Tibi
 
I haven't posted any info or pics of my Shiga MKII, thought I would start by posting some basic information, as I promised Tibi I would. I have had two Shiga MKII's and one MK1, the current one I am keeping. Big thank you for Tibi, for always answering my questions and never getting frustrated with me.

My Shiga has Duelund RS 0,047uF C8 Blackgate N 100uF C43, Sanyo Oscon C10 LT1086 regulator and silver mica bypass for the last regulator capacitor, Nude Z-foils for output attenuator. Lately I installed Miniregs for V4 and V3, LT3045 reg for V2 and I have a Salas Ref-d mini ready for V1. Reflektor-D Has it's own 40VA EI-transformer. The main 8V supply has 108VA EI-transformer.

I have both, the aluminim and bronze puck. The aluminum one has not been used much recently, as the bonze puck made such a huge improvement that I will stick to that.

The main plate which the mechanism is mounted on, is about 16mm stainless steel, Cnc machined, weighs about 20kg. Mechanism is attached using bronze spacers, copper washers and brass nuts. the stainless steel plate rests on Paulstradyn absorbers, those made a big change for better and thanks for the paulstras, the transport is not sensitive to even heavy vibrations. Recently I found a nice pulley with a bracket and I built a anti-skate system, like the one Erik Van Voorst uses.

There is still a lot of work to do, finishing the enclosure, trying a few different regulators for 8V supply and making changes to the wiring etc. will post pictures once I get some more work done. I must say this is already the best transport I have heard and I will keep this and I don't have to think about other transports ever.
 
:sad::sad:

I have seen this but sadly I will have to sit this one out cause now I have a commitment as parent to fill since my doughter have choosen to move home. So unfortunately I have to consolidate my economy for two, three weeks to see how big a change that is, economically before taking on further investments in my hobby.:(
We have a saying in Sweden and I think it apply in other countries as well; "when food is falling from heaven, the poor people lacks a spoon to eat with":D:D
 
Cover your Shiga MKII with beeswax to protect against humidity and oxidation.
Drop beeswax on the board and use your hotgun to uniform the wax over entire board. make sure that you avoid connectors and LA6541 dissipation layout - unless this have a small heatsink.


Regards,
Tibi
 

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- now I use mini regs in places of V2,V3 and V4. For V1 I use LF50 as an alternative to LT1086-5 with excellent performance - note that these regulators need 100uF soldered on the output to eliminate any oscillations. Salas D-reflector for V1 and V2 are also a nice upgrade.

Hi Tibi

Just sat down to pop a LF50 into V1. I notice that the pin configuration is different to the LT1086 so it is not a straight drop in - instead it will look like its busting for a wee.

Cheers
 
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So after successfully putting in the LF50 to V1 and a 3rd mini-reg in V2 rather than leave well alone I thought I'd be clever and proceed to the ADP151 mod. Put in the IC, 10uf tant, 1k res and 1uf cap. Couldn't get it to work with the cut trace and wire to C11 - so followed the various work arounds (2 and 3) to force the chip etc. Still nothing. But also then noticed the LF50 was getting way hot. This was working fine before I commenced the ADP151 mod so the problems relate to something I have done after that point ie. U5, C68/69, R65

I rewound from the ADP151 but it did not immediately recover from there. SO proceeded to replace Ferrite beads and remove all mini-regs etc from the equation.

I'm only getting 7v at the pad that feeds the individual mini-regs and the LA9242 chip is getting hot so it is getting to much v!!

Something got fried in the process of doing the ADP151 mod. Any ideas where to start looking? Obvs I don't want to power on too long to juice the LA9242 - maybe it is already beyond repair.

Thanks in advance

Hi Tibi

Just sat down to pop a LF50 into V1. I notice that the pin configuration is different to the LT1086 so it is not a straight drop in - instead it will look like its busting for a wee.

Cheers
 
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As per usual - once I took a breath and could block out some time that I could look carefully, the problems got solved.

I have not implemented the ADP151 but I am happy to have all going well now with V1 LF50 V2,3,4 mini-regs in place.

Will leave well alone for now but I know myself enough that I will be back to try again with the ADP151. Have to get a 1206 format 1K res as the one I am using is tiny.

Move along. Nothing to see here.


So after successfully putting in the LF50 to V1 and a 3rd mini-reg in V2 rather than leave well alone I thought I'd be clever and proceed to the ADP151 mod. Put in the IC, 10uf tant, 1k res and 1uf cap. Couldn't get it to work with the cut trace and wire to C11 - so followed the various work arounds (2 and 3) to force the chip etc. Still nothing. But also then noticed the LF50 was getting way hot. This was working fine before I commenced the ADP151 mod so the problems relate to something I have done after that point ie. U5, C68/69, R65

I rewound from the ADP151 but it did not immediately recover from there. SO proceeded to replace Ferrite beads and remove all mini-regs etc from the equation.

I'm only getting 7v at the pad that feeds the individual mini-regs and the LA9242 chip is getting hot so it is getting to much v!!

Something got fried in the process of doing the ADP151 mod. Any ideas where to start looking? Obvs I don't want to power on too long to juice the LA9242 - maybe it is already beyond repair.

Thanks in advance
 
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