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Alex is refering to C43 soldering. C43 is part of main regulator and his influence in Shiga operation is major, therefore the sound will be affected too.
Make sure that C43 pin is soldered properly. Clean the board again and use a acid resin, afther that clean the board very well again.
regards,
Tibi
Hi Tibi.
It has been weeks I didn't do much on my shigaclone issue. Long holidays. Alrite I clean up my kit set for celebration and hook back 3 days ago. Olla... back to normal and singing beautifully. I still prefer the sound to my new swap Cdp~bow zz8. Again yesterday back to old issue again. Press CD door and no track detection but only ~ eeek eeokk~once from the Lazer.
Today back from work and test all connection and all good~turning the Mecha and PCB up and down. Play and sing again. any tips where I missed out? The ribbon?
Tq!
It has been weeks I didn't do much on my shigaclone issue. Long holidays. Alrite I clean up my kit set for celebration and hook back 3 days ago. Olla... back to normal and singing beautifully. I still prefer the sound to my new swap Cdp~bow zz8. Again yesterday back to old issue again. Press CD door and no track detection but only ~ eeek eeokk~once from the Lazer.
Today back from work and test all connection and all good~turning the Mecha and PCB up and down. Play and sing again. any tips where I missed out? The ribbon?
Tq!
Hi Robert. To clean your PCB use cotton apply alcholo and rub on the flux area. If can't remove then use tooth brush. all done the spray WD40 and wax the whole PCB then it will looks factory finish But in condition with fine soldering.
Ribbon connectors and ribbon cable are not designed for frequent connect/disconnect use.
DIY-ers are eager to test Shiga MKII in many ways with different parts and modifications. This may cause to destroy connectors or ribbon cable. The first to fail is ribbon cable, so I suggest you to buy few spares.
Beside this, I suggest you to use a contact spray to facilitate contact. This is what I personaly use Contact spray Products - Griffon
regards,
Tibi
DIY-ers are eager to test Shiga MKII in many ways with different parts and modifications. This may cause to destroy connectors or ribbon cable. The first to fail is ribbon cable, so I suggest you to buy few spares.
Beside this, I suggest you to use a contact spray to facilitate contact. This is what I personaly use Contact spray Products - Griffon
regards,
Tibi
Shiga MKll causes death!
Hello Tibi,
OK, I am about ready to kill myself. I have the hang mans noose made and hanging in my shop ready for use. Man, I have had nothing but bad luck with this project. I have my final chassis all done and waiting for Shiga installation. Here's what's up. I finally got my brd back after long wait. Hooked it up and it worked, except that I had to jiggle the power connector on the brd, and then wedge it with something to get it to work. Apparently there was a broken pin on the connector. Also had trouble with CD Door. But when I jiggle power connector it would seem to work. I wired a connector to the push button brd. that mated with another that connected outboard buttons as controls and it all worked. Today, I disconnected the out board switchs, and removed the power connector and hard wired the power to the brd. When I power up the lights come on and the CD spins and then reads 00. Then when I put a CD on and hit CD Door, nothing happens! Na Da. Ziltch. I have checked for visible broken parts, and couldn't find any. I checked the cable from CD Door to main brd, and it has continuity. But, if I have power off and place a CD on the transport, and then turn on the power, it reads the CD and tells me how many tracks. Then I can hit play, and it will play. It just doesn't work if you power up and let it read 00 before you put a CD on. What should I be looking at??? I swear, every time I look at this brd the wrong way, something stops working. Oh, and I have the wires for out board buttons disconnected from CD Door, just in case that was causing a problem. So, what should I be looking at??? After I get this worked out I need to install V1 and V2 regulators. And that scares me. If I touch it again, it will stop working again. But I have two $50.00 regulators that must be used.
OK, so how do I get CD Door to work? Thanks.
Tibi, it's all your fault if my wife finds me hanging in my work shop. LOL.
Hello Tibi,
OK, I am about ready to kill myself. I have the hang mans noose made and hanging in my shop ready for use. Man, I have had nothing but bad luck with this project. I have my final chassis all done and waiting for Shiga installation. Here's what's up. I finally got my brd back after long wait. Hooked it up and it worked, except that I had to jiggle the power connector on the brd, and then wedge it with something to get it to work. Apparently there was a broken pin on the connector. Also had trouble with CD Door. But when I jiggle power connector it would seem to work. I wired a connector to the push button brd. that mated with another that connected outboard buttons as controls and it all worked. Today, I disconnected the out board switchs, and removed the power connector and hard wired the power to the brd. When I power up the lights come on and the CD spins and then reads 00. Then when I put a CD on and hit CD Door, nothing happens! Na Da. Ziltch. I have checked for visible broken parts, and couldn't find any. I checked the cable from CD Door to main brd, and it has continuity. But, if I have power off and place a CD on the transport, and then turn on the power, it reads the CD and tells me how many tracks. Then I can hit play, and it will play. It just doesn't work if you power up and let it read 00 before you put a CD on. What should I be looking at??? I swear, every time I look at this brd the wrong way, something stops working. Oh, and I have the wires for out board buttons disconnected from CD Door, just in case that was causing a problem. So, what should I be looking at??? After I get this worked out I need to install V1 and V2 regulators. And that scares me. If I touch it again, it will stop working again. But I have two $50.00 regulators that must be used.
OK, so how do I get CD Door to work? Thanks.
Tibi, it's all your fault if my wife finds me hanging in my work shop. LOL.
"Hang In There" Good choice of words. I just went out to check out something on Shiga, but it turned out not to fix anything. So I just listened to music for a while. Shiga works great if I put the CD on before powering up. If I put CD on first, and then turn on power, it reads how many tracks as soon as the power is turned on. Then I can push play, and beautiful music happens. It's just if I turn power on with out a CD on, it reads 00, like it should, but then when you put a CD on, CD Door or play, doesn't do anything. I could use it like this. I would just have one extra useless button. I would rather not. I put a lot into this project, and the rest of the system I'm building, and I would like it to work as it should. But thanks for the encouragement. Maybe Tibi will have an answer. I checked that the push button switch is actually working.
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Life Spared
Well, it was another broken pin! The 3 pin connector on the push button brd had a broken pin. That's what I don't like about 90 degree header connectors on brds. Nothing keeps the connector flat on the brd when plugging in. I would of used straight up header connectors on the brd and right angel crimp on ribbon cable connectors. Just my preference. No big deal. . Just one more thing to be carful about. Now wish me luck installing V1 and V2. Thanks for all the help. I'm not knocking anything about shiga ll. Great transport, and I want to thank Tibi for bringing us this wonderful transport, and for all the help he has been. It's just being the ox that I am, things are a little delicate for something that is being plugged and unplugged as many times as I have had to. If it was just an easy install in box, it would be great. But with fitting and unplugging things several time, one must be careful with this delicate brd. Thanks again.
Well, it was another broken pin! The 3 pin connector on the push button brd had a broken pin. That's what I don't like about 90 degree header connectors on brds. Nothing keeps the connector flat on the brd when plugging in. I would of used straight up header connectors on the brd and right angel crimp on ribbon cable connectors. Just my preference. No big deal. . Just one more thing to be carful about. Now wish me luck installing V1 and V2. Thanks for all the help. I'm not knocking anything about shiga ll. Great transport, and I want to thank Tibi for bringing us this wonderful transport, and for all the help he has been. It's just being the ox that I am, things are a little delicate for something that is being plugged and unplugged as many times as I have had to. If it was just an easy install in box, it would be great. But with fitting and unplugging things several time, one must be careful with this delicate brd. Thanks again.
Back to the noose!
OK, I told you I was scared to touch it again. Had it working. Installed V1 and V2 Belleson regulators. Powered up with no CD, and laser moved out as far as it could go to where the edge of the disk would be if one was there and tries to keep going. Turned it off, and then on again and it did the same thing. Changed to a virgin CD mechanics, does the same thing.What did I do wrong. I put the regulators in with the brd side of the regulator to the white line on the main brd. When looking at the face of the regulator it is marked with the IN on the right side, the out in the middle, and Grnd on the left. There is a small pad next to and common with the right pad on the main brd. I connected the hot wire to this pad, and the return to pin 1 on J2. I measured both regulators in the brd, and both are putting out 4.97 volts. What did I do Now? I didn't put the regs in backwards did I? If I reverse them, then the extra common pad would be grnd on the regulator, and there would be nowhere to hook up power to? And we don't need a grnd pad there because Grnd goes to J2. I think I have them in correctly. Or maybe ignore the regulators and think of what would make the mechanic run to the end and try to keep going. Maybe its a separate problem, or not. Thank you all.
OK, I told you I was scared to touch it again. Had it working. Installed V1 and V2 Belleson regulators. Powered up with no CD, and laser moved out as far as it could go to where the edge of the disk would be if one was there and tries to keep going. Turned it off, and then on again and it did the same thing. Changed to a virgin CD mechanics, does the same thing.What did I do wrong. I put the regulators in with the brd side of the regulator to the white line on the main brd. When looking at the face of the regulator it is marked with the IN on the right side, the out in the middle, and Grnd on the left. There is a small pad next to and common with the right pad on the main brd. I connected the hot wire to this pad, and the return to pin 1 on J2. I measured both regulators in the brd, and both are putting out 4.97 volts. What did I do Now? I didn't put the regs in backwards did I? If I reverse them, then the extra common pad would be grnd on the regulator, and there would be nowhere to hook up power to? And we don't need a grnd pad there because Grnd goes to J2. I think I have them in correctly. Or maybe ignore the regulators and think of what would make the mechanic run to the end and try to keep going. Maybe its a separate problem, or not. Thank you all.
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