Hi Tibi,
Thank you so much for taking the time for this. I guess I have been indeed confused with the different layouts and schematics. As I said, I was just trying to make sense of what I have here. I hate to use things that I don't understand how they work...
I was actually referring to both the first and the second version of your boards, but since I have only the 2012 schematics, that's what I was following, believing that it is the same for both.
Part of my confusion was also due to being under the impression that you were merely trying to reproduce, as faithfully as possible, the layout of the "original" board, hence the silly, I agree, zero ohm resistors question.
Again, I apologize for being a nuisance.
Thank you so much for taking the time for this. I guess I have been indeed confused with the different layouts and schematics. As I said, I was just trying to make sense of what I have here. I hate to use things that I don't understand how they work...
I was actually referring to both the first and the second version of your boards, but since I have only the 2012 schematics, that's what I was following, believing that it is the same for both.
Part of my confusion was also due to being under the impression that you were merely trying to reproduce, as faithfully as possible, the layout of the "original" board, hence the silly, I agree, zero ohm resistors question.
Again, I apologize for being a nuisance.
On MKI, Q3/C50 should be moved closer to LC78601 as possible.
For further improvements I suggest you to focus your resources on MKII.
Regards,
Tibi
SL motor keeps turning
Hello.
I am building the Shiga CDT kit.
My status is.....
The control buttons & display LCD are not connected.
(Because I think that only 'Door'signal is necessary to read 'CD' information.
Except them(control buttons & display LCD), every parts are connected and soldered.
However, when I turn on,
the SL motor(Pin 3, 4 of J2 Mtor connector) keeps turning even after the pick up goes to the end position.
So I checked that P-SW pin(Pin 2)'s connection and it is good.
Can I get some advice here?
Thank you in advance.
Hello.
I am building the Shiga CDT kit.
My status is.....
The control buttons & display LCD are not connected.
(Because I think that only 'Door'signal is necessary to read 'CD' information.
Except them(control buttons & display LCD), every parts are connected and soldered.
However, when I turn on,
the SL motor(Pin 3, 4 of J2 Mtor connector) keeps turning even after the pick up goes to the end position.
So I checked that P-SW pin(Pin 2)'s connection and it is good.
Can I get some advice here?
Thank you in advance.
Please post detailed pictures with front and back of board to see what is there and to help you.
Robert,
You need to clean all the flux off for starters. The soldered joint adjacent to C42 doesn't look very good but hard to tell with all the flux. Also all the other new soldered joints made for the mods are very poor and don't look like the solder has melted and wetted the joint properly. Think you have an abundance of dry joints.
Regards,
Aleks
You need to clean all the flux off for starters. The soldered joint adjacent to C42 doesn't look very good but hard to tell with all the flux. Also all the other new soldered joints made for the mods are very poor and don't look like the solder has melted and wetted the joint properly. Think you have an abundance of dry joints.
Regards,
Aleks
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You Tentlabs clock is wrongly mounted.
Have a look on me website and correct.
vicol audio : Shigaclone mkII high grade (click on pictures to get higher detail.)
Regards,
Tibi
Sink entire board in isopropylic alcohol and use a brush.
Display must be protected, otherwise will be destroyed.
Regards,
Tibi
Hello Tibi,
Did not dear to sink the entire board, but cleaned as well as possible using a brush dipped in the alcohol. Took the Tentlabs clock out and tried to solder it in the right possition. Than I realised that I'm not good in solderering (putting it mildly) and ruined the joint for the pin right under the T from Tentlabs. The solder doesn't connect anymore. Can I hardwire that pin to another point on the board?
Regards,
Robert
Did not dear to sink the entire board, but cleaned as well as possible using a brush dipped in the alcohol. Took the Tentlabs clock out and tried to solder it in the right possition. Than I realised that I'm not good in solderering (putting it mildly) and ruined the joint for the pin right under the T from Tentlabs. The solder doesn't connect anymore. Can I hardwire that pin to another point on the board?
Regards,
Robert
Not good , you should buy 60SN40Pb , that will help you a lot in soldering and make good connection.
Flux quantity is also very important.
For smd mounting use solder 0.5mm diameter and with high flux percentage. Rosin types are not so corrosive.
Searched phrase: cynel | TME - Electronic components
Regards,
Tibi
For smd mounting use solder 0.5mm diameter and with high flux percentage. Rosin types are not so corrosive.
Searched phrase: cynel | TME - Electronic components
Regards,
Tibi