Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

Hi Tibi.

Regarding the tantalums, electrolythics and others.
Reading the bom, occational words and looking at different pictures of where they should go is quite impossible. In most pics there are two green electrolyts. I have one as C28 is missing 220uF if i remember right. In the pics there are no 10uF elecs, I got 5 or 6 in the kit. Which tantalums can be replaced with these as I am missing tantals to fill the board.

Please elaborate on these please.

Regards

Hi Turbon,

Look for a tantalum 220uF. Solder this on laser CCS / C10. The green 220uF on C43 position.
About 10uF - C2 must be tantalum. C48, C51, C52 on main board. C67 on display board and C1 on IR board.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Sorry C43 - 220uF and yes C28 - 2.2uF is missing as well. I got one extra 47uF tantal and 2 10uF elecs.

I don't have any clue if they are missing in others kits - sorry if so.

Regards

You should have two 2.2uF tantalum capacitors for C28 and C38. All KIT packages got exactly same parts.
47uF tantalum is a critical part and must be placed on C19.
I suggest you to solder all parts, if something is missing I'll send to you.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Thank you for your answer Tibi.

"About 10uF - C2 must be tantalum. C48, C51, C52 on main board. C67 on display board and C1 on IR board."
-By this you mean that C48, C51, C52 on main board, C67 on display board and C1 on IR board can be elecs? Since I got one extra 10uF tantal I have put it at C52.
I have one extra 47uF tantal but no 220uF tantal and got only one 2.2uF tantal...

Could you comment on and have pics on the PSU board about C64/65/66? And what about the big grey 100nF MKP, on one of your large hirez pics it is on the main board? The holes doesn't fit :)

"I suggest you to solder all parts, if something is missing I'll send to you."

Thank you! I think the 100pF C2/3 for the remote are missing too. Lets wait until I got everything in place first to get the total balance before you send anything ;)

Thanks and regards
 
Last edited:
C48, C51, C52 on main board, C67 on display board and C1 on IR board must be 10uF electrolitics.

Do you measure the parts ?

Here are recommended values for standard power supply.
C64 = 1000-2200uF/ min 10V
C63 = 2200-4700uF/ min 16V

C62 = 100nF MKP

C66 = 1nF silver-mica or 1nF NP0 or 10nF X5R

The big Grey 100nF must be on power supply.
In your KIT you have a 0.1uF tantalum which must be placed on highly debated C8 and holes will fit. :)
If you want something more "exotic" than go for Mundorf silver-gold-oil or Duelund cast.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Ok, nothing new since last sunset or a few sunsets... No new builders. Is it just Tibi, Danzup and me? Follow the pic as I referred to will not give the answers, Tibis joy over an old famous picture doesn't really help as that is the picture he pointed out to follow. And now we have a standard an a high-grade kit so which one did we buy? Tibi - get your act together. Go for 2 boms - one high-grade and one low-grade. Now, so everyone can put these together an get a functional system! Then we can start to play and test things - othervise it will just be dirty and foul.
 
Last edited:
Turbon,

There are at least two other people who finished building SHIGA MKII. Maybe too busy with listening music. :)

Please post here a high res picture with what you have mounted so far.

Some people prefer to have all upgrades already installed. For them now I have the high-grade version.
High grade version include:
- Mundorf Silver-Gold OIL capacitor for C8
- Vishay naked foil resistors for sp/dif divider
- Sanyo organic, silver-mica and kemet tantlum capacitors
- Tentlabs low jitter XO
- 2 low noise LDO miniregulators
- main power supply with LT1086adj
Beside this, all soldering is made with Mundorf Silver-Gold.

Obviously parts used in high-grade are not cheap, but anyone can upgrade to this later. Also, construction of high-grade version will be detailed on this thread.

Turbon, you have standard bomb, which can be upgraded to atomic bomb. Yes atomic, an Rb atomic clock is on the way. :D

Regards,
Tibi
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I can promise you that the only part that is doubtfully in the wrong place is C52 as that was the last 10uf tantalum to put somwhere... All pictures I have seen had a tantalum there so the last one found its place. C48/C51 had to take elect's and you noted a few posts ago that they had to be elects... All pics I have seen had tantalums - might have been the hight-grade ones ;).

Could you add a column to your BOM stating the HIGH-GRADE parts so me and possibly others can get this together for exploration.

BTW - don't forget the 220uF and 2.2uF tantals and the 100pF 1206'es as these seems to be what I'm missing. Oh yes - I got no silver micas...

Last, In my view you folks and others in the shiga thread have done a really remarkable effort. Custom PCB, chips and LCD's - outstanding! Who ever thought someone was willingly go tha deep into one design to better it. There is hope for the CD :) Thank you Tibi et al.

Regards
 
Last edited:
Turbon,

Tantalum are electrolytic capacitors as well.
Tantalum capacitor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In BOM, all high grade parts are marked as OPTIONAL PARTS.
Silver-mica are part of high-grade mods and marked as optional in BOM.
Please post a picture with what you have mounted so far and what parts remaining.

Regards,
Tibi

Yes, quite so but not as in the pics you were refering to... Yes I have one good pic.

Tibi - I know the elec on C10 should be moved to C43 to be replaced by a 220uF tantal but I don't have one... ;) As you can see C28 2.2uF tantal is missing as is C2/C3 100pF on the remote. The silver mica on the PS board - maybe I didn't order that... Well well... The board is waiting for cleaning as well - clearly.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Regards
 
Last edited:
Turbon,

The parts might slightly differ from KIT to KIT upon availability on distributors. The pictures on my site are there to guide you to place correct values on correct places and to see which parts must be mounted and which can be omitted.
BTW, the best part for C10 is an oscon or polymer cap.

So far so good. Please show me other side as well.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Turbon,

The parts might slightly differ from KIT to KIT upon availability on distributors. The pictures on my site are there to guide you to place correct values on correct places and to see which parts must be mounted and which can be omitted.
BTW, the best part for C10 is an oscon or polymer cap.

So far so good. Please show me other side as well.

Regards,
Tibi

Ok, here we go:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Regards
 
Hi Tibi,

The package has arrived.
Have the modified board (with regs and silver mica) listened to with the default board the modified board sounds better more depth and more detail.

But now wants to replace the spdif resistances but what is now the shunt and series resistance.
The bomb says:
R48 = 75Ω (100Ω) Shunt resistance
R49 = 75Ω (300Ω) series resistance.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkpVHsdmSfohdGo4VWMzTWlLRXlveDVPOWctLW5URnc&usp=sharing#gid=0

The photo and my measurement says otherwise.

Regards,
Rudy
 

Attachments

  • spdif out.jpg
    spdif out.jpg
    272.6 KB · Views: 2,047
  • Vicol MK2 Shigaclone 2 mod.jpg
    Vicol MK2 Shigaclone 2 mod.jpg
    454.6 KB · Views: 2,053
Last edited: