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#1981 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Helsinki
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Yup, the broken wires were the problem. A tip to check for you guys, if you have similar problems.
Now the transport is working fine. ![]() |
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#1982 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Quote:
I need the dimension for the LCD front panel and button , can't find in yr website , please help . plan to purchase a CD chassis from China , want to ask them to cut the hole for LCD panel and hole for the button . thanks with regards |
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#1983 |
diyAudio Member
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The best I can give you is a cdr file for Shiga enclosure.
Regards, Tibi
__________________
https://evotronix.eu |
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#1984 |
diyAudio Member
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What I have is spacing between buttons
11.684mm 460mil 0.46inch |
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#1985 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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#1986 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Hi ,
I joust bought the same chassis , can share more photo or tip for mounting the sanyo transport ? thanks Quote:
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#1987 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Somewhere in Austria, near the Danube
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I think this has been covered already - but can somebody give me hint or a link how I can get an I2S signal from the Shiga board?
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/lohk/ |
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#1988 |
diyAudio Member
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Lohk,
Shiga output only s/pdif. Regards, Tibi
__________________
https://evotronix.eu |
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#1989 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Helsinki
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Hi guys,
I've had the Shigaclone around for quite a few years now. But for some reason I never tried to tweak it with my favorite cap. So I did now. In both the original Shigaclone and MKII Black. I substituted C8 with a Jupiter Condenser Red Astron cap. Red “Astron” Style Capacitors | Jupiter Condenser Sounds marvelous! ![]() ![]() Also, I tried the silver Mica for C11 - I'm afraid I liked the sound better without it. More organic and natural. This just as a remidence that not all tweaks make things better or fit the sound of your system. ![]() |
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