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-   -   Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/255887-shigaclone-mkii-black-builders-thread.html)

spartan 6th February 2015 08:03 AM

Thanks, Tibi.

Just on the last point: you mean all I have to do is to connect three wires from the main board (J3) to the control board (J9), J3 to J9, middle to middle, etc... correct?

tvicol 6th February 2015 08:10 AM

Yes.
In case you ordered a full mounted KIT, that cable should be already there.

Regards,
Tibi

spartan 6th February 2015 08:49 AM

one more thing: how do I kill the blue light of the TOC?

tvicol 6th February 2015 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartan (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/255887-shigaclone-mkii-black-builders-thread-post4213508.html#post4213508)
one more thing: how do I kill the blue light of the TOC?

:confused:
I really don't know about which blue light are you talking about.
Could you please be more specific ?

Regards,
Tibi

spartan 6th February 2015 09:00 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I mean the led blue light of the counter...

danzup 6th February 2015 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartan (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/255887-shigaclone-mkii-black-builders-thread-post4213522.html#post4213522)
I mean the led blue light of the counter...

If you want that your LCD not to be illuminated on the back there is P1 500 r print there .
Just unsolder that or jumper that is there.

tvicol 6th February 2015 09:08 AM

That is backlight and you may disconnect it by removing P1 strap.
P1 is on the back of the board.
Please note that LCD is TN positive transmissive and is very likely you'll don't see too much without backlight.

Regards,
Tibi

spartan 6th February 2015 09:24 AM

Thank you both.

spartan 13th February 2015 05:34 PM

Board questions
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi Tibi and all,

I have been comparing the original board to the new one and have a few questions. Let me first apologize if some of these questions have already appeared here, in which case I ask you to direct me to the reply. These are "naive" questions and I have no intention of sounding like I am criticizing any decision made.

1. I cannot find the following equivalent caps on the original shiga: C35, 52, 55, 56, 60, 48, 59 and 11. Neither the inductors L6 and 7. Why were these parts added?

2. C51 (c939) is 100uF in the original schematics and board, not 10uF. Was that intentional?

3. If C48 is in place of c942 than the original value is 220uF , not 10uF.

4. There’s no SMS bypass cap for C10, whereas C953 has C960.

5. Why the section in RED on the pdf attatched eliminated in the new board (R957, C942, C962, and C951*)? I know this refers to the ground of the DAC, but how can we know that eliminating all those elements will not hurt the overall sound? *Note that C951 (on the original schematics) is, as far as I can tell, marked C967 on the original board.

6. Also, why beads instead of zero resistors and why only a few of the original zero resistors? Were they compared for sound or is it only a technical decision (I know that in theory ferrite beads can help reducing noise, but in practice they can hurt the sound in certain situations…)

7. The link on LC7860 between EFLG (pin 49) and VLCD1 (pin 40) appears in the original schematics (see pic below marked in GREEN), but it is NOT present in the board (see detail pic of JW930 on the original shiga board). The link has been kept in the new schematics (and I suppose boards too…). Was this intentional?


Since there are so many small difference, I must have missed others. But I would greatly appreciate and thank any of you for any help clarifying this. The sound of the player with the new boards is very different than the sound I had with the original board: better in some regards and worse in others. I would like to depart with a situation on the new board closer to the one I had on the original, and move from there.

Thanks for any help!

spartan 13th February 2015 06:22 PM

pic of the pdf mentioned above
 
1 Attachment(s)
see attachted


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