I do not know which transformer you have because Shiga MKII was shipped with two transformers. One with two separate 10Vac secondaries and one with 18Vac with median section. Both will work, with observation that on median one you need to separate secondaries in 2 of 9Vac, and use each section for one Zeno. This can be simple done my desoldering median wires.
Regards,
Tibi
Regards,
Tibi
shigaclone
Hello Tibi.
My name is Maurizio.
By coincidence i found this interesting thread regarding the shigaclone cd.
I do not know too much about it, but as far i understood is based on a Sanyo transport.
do you still have some pcb of the MKII version available?
If yes..which mechanism i must buy to build up a shigaclone cd transport?
Many thanks in advance.
Maurizio
Hello Tibi.
My name is Maurizio.
By coincidence i found this interesting thread regarding the shigaclone cd.
I do not know too much about it, but as far i understood is based on a Sanyo transport.
do you still have some pcb of the MKII version available?
If yes..which mechanism i must buy to build up a shigaclone cd transport?
Many thanks in advance.
Maurizio
Hello Maurizio,
Shiga MKII is based on Sanyo SFP101N-16P mechanic and Sanyo chips LC78601-DSP, LA9242-ASP and LA6541-BTL.
All these parts are long obsolete.
Display is also unobtainable, due is segment multiplexed and was designed and manufactured by me.
In the end you'll need more parts than a blank PCB and mounting one Shiga MKII require top soldering and electronic skills.
If you are ready for such challenge, please pm me.
Regards,
Tibi
Shiga MKII is based on Sanyo SFP101N-16P mechanic and Sanyo chips LC78601-DSP, LA9242-ASP and LA6541-BTL.
All these parts are long obsolete.
Display is also unobtainable, due is segment multiplexed and was designed and manufactured by me.
In the end you'll need more parts than a blank PCB and mounting one Shiga MKII require top soldering and electronic skills.
If you are ready for such challenge, please pm me.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi,
I am trying to consolidate this great and extensive thread and I was interested in "high quality and high price" parts which I only see in a column of the BOM v1.9. ...for example 0.1% resistors are no longer so important in MK2?
Thanks
Denis
Denis,
The BOM is for low cost and only as reference.
I would invest in high quality parts where these make a difference. Like Duelund Silver cast on C8, Z-foil for spdif, silver-mica and organic capacitors, Dexa neutron for clock, Zeno MKII for regulators, parts for mechanic modification.
And another thing more important than resistor tolerance, is to mount all smd, or at least mlcc's, vertically.
Regards,
Tibi
The BOM is for low cost and only as reference.
I would invest in high quality parts where these make a difference. Like Duelund Silver cast on C8, Z-foil for spdif, silver-mica and organic capacitors, Dexa neutron for clock, Zeno MKII for regulators, parts for mechanic modification.
And another thing more important than resistor tolerance, is to mount all smd, or at least mlcc's, vertically.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi again,
I would like to use my BlackGates on a PS board
C64= BG-STD 1000uF/25V
C63= BG-FK 2200uF/35V and C70= BG-N 47uF / 50V
.. is it good idea or not?
I have had some parts for the old Peter Daniel's project for several years, and I'm not sure about using them.
Thanks for any advice
Denis
I would like to use my BlackGates on a PS board
C64= BG-STD 1000uF/25V
C63= BG-FK 2200uF/35V and C70= BG-N 47uF / 50V
.. is it good idea or not?
I have had some parts for the old Peter Daniel's project for several years, and I'm not sure about using them.
Thanks for any advice
Denis
Tibi, I remember you mentioning you shielded the laser pick up with copper tape i think, but I couldn't find the post. Do you have any photos on how did you do it? Is there anything else that would benefit from shielding, like the ribbon from mainboard to the mechanism? I have seen people putting copper tape over the chips and soldering a thin wire to ground. Do you still recommend the PIO cap over the spindle motor and what value was the cap? I am soon at the point with my Shiga, where I have done most of the mods I have wanted and gotten it sounds exactly like I wanted. Now I could try some of these small mods that might make a difference
Hey everyone,
I cannot get my skip forward one track button to work. Button seems to be working mechanically as I can test open/close continuity on pcb itself. Reverse 1 track works so I must have connection to IC. Also all 18 wires of cable check out with continuity. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Also it has never worked so it was not lost later.
best regards,
Steve
I cannot get my skip forward one track button to work. Button seems to be working mechanically as I can test open/close continuity on pcb itself. Reverse 1 track works so I must have connection to IC. Also all 18 wires of cable check out with continuity. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Also it has never worked so it was not lost later.
best regards,
Steve
I would appreciate any help I can Shiga MK2 keeps destroying the laser pick ups constantly. After years of slowly tweaking things I have finally got my Shiga to a point where I am perfectly happy with it sonically and won’t be doing any changes to it at all. Only thing left is building a permanent enclosure for it.
I had two mechanisms from AliExpress, first died after 4-5h of listening, towards The end of the cd I was playing at the moment. Music just stopped and it it did not read TOC anymore. After I checked all the connections and voltages of regulators I swapped a new mechanism from the same batch. everything worked all right for a few days as I didn’t listen much. Next week I was listening again, I hit the stop button, changed the cd and and the same issue again. I thought it could have been just bad luck and got two mechas from a bad batch.
Ordered new one from German ebay and plugged it in and it worked again. This time I was so careful as possible, removed the laser protection blob and the dust cover the last thing, after everything else was connected. I made sure to power it off only after disc was stopped completely, was so careful I didn’t even touch anywhere close to the spindle or the pick up when putting on a cd and even stood away from it when music was playing. I got through about 2h of listening tonight and it happened once again!
Only things I noticed was before the final cd, there was slight skipping one one track, on the last cd I played, there was just one high pitched noise and the music stopped. Disc kept spinning but it would not change tracks. I hit the TOC button and once again 00 and it Won’t play anymore. I don’t have another working mechanism left But once the new ones arrive, I suspect it will work just fine again.
V4 and V3 are Vicol miniregs, they constantly stay at around 5.02V, V2 and V1 are Salas reflektor-d mini’s, they start at 5.04-5.06V when cold and end up at 5.00-5.01V when warmed up. The 8V regulator is Sjostrom audio SSR1 at 7.98V. The clock is TWTMC-Drixo, powered by Salas Ultrabib at 16.4V. Mechanisms are stock, no holy shi*t mods, the measurement from the mounting plate to the spindle platter have been exactly spot on And I am using Tibi’s heavier puck, the brass or is it bronze one.
I had two mechanisms from AliExpress, first died after 4-5h of listening, towards The end of the cd I was playing at the moment. Music just stopped and it it did not read TOC anymore. After I checked all the connections and voltages of regulators I swapped a new mechanism from the same batch. everything worked all right for a few days as I didn’t listen much. Next week I was listening again, I hit the stop button, changed the cd and and the same issue again. I thought it could have been just bad luck and got two mechas from a bad batch.
Ordered new one from German ebay and plugged it in and it worked again. This time I was so careful as possible, removed the laser protection blob and the dust cover the last thing, after everything else was connected. I made sure to power it off only after disc was stopped completely, was so careful I didn’t even touch anywhere close to the spindle or the pick up when putting on a cd and even stood away from it when music was playing. I got through about 2h of listening tonight and it happened once again!
Only things I noticed was before the final cd, there was slight skipping one one track, on the last cd I played, there was just one high pitched noise and the music stopped. Disc kept spinning but it would not change tracks. I hit the TOC button and once again 00 and it Won’t play anymore. I don’t have another working mechanism left But once the new ones arrive, I suspect it will work just fine again.
V4 and V3 are Vicol miniregs, they constantly stay at around 5.02V, V2 and V1 are Salas reflektor-d mini’s, they start at 5.04-5.06V when cold and end up at 5.00-5.01V when warmed up. The 8V regulator is Sjostrom audio SSR1 at 7.98V. The clock is TWTMC-Drixo, powered by Salas Ultrabib at 16.4V. Mechanisms are stock, no holy shi*t mods, the measurement from the mounting plate to the spindle platter have been exactly spot on And I am using Tibi’s heavier puck, the brass or is it bronze one.
I've encountered similar problems. I swap laser mechanisms and when one of them don't work, I swap the ribbon cable and it works. Try also cleaning the contacts of the ribbon cable. Mine is very sensitive, it sounds great when it works but I find the player somewhat unreliable. If you use it constantly, its fine.
Good luck troubleshooting
Good luck troubleshooting