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#1 |
diyAudio Member
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I got one of each today
![]() The CD-60 seems to spin a bit fast and skips. The CD-50 Plays well. Both DC's need new drivebelt for the sled, new gearwheel (and grease?) as the sleds sticks and opens/closes "spasticly" lol Will use one in my bedroom with my Lehmann BCL clone and Goldring DR150's, the other one will be in my main system alongside the USB-DAC/computer source. Along with repairs/service I will modify them. NOS conversion, improvements to PSU, better opamps? What else should/could I do?
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#2 |
diyAudio Member
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Ordered belt, gearwheel for one of the cd's, also ordered A bunch of goldplated DIP8 sockets if I want to swap opamps later on. LM4562NA maybe?
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#3 |
diyAudio Member
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Haven't opened the lid on any of the players yet. Want all the info first.
If there's the "A" version of SAA7220 in them, would it be worth the effort to swap to the "B" version? EDIT: this would be a useless upgrade after NOS-conversion, right?
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The more you learn, the more you realize how little you know... My blog, go have a look Last edited by Mayday; 26th November 2011 at 02:23 PM. |
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#4 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
They are rather cheap. Worth the effort to swap motors as long as I'm already working on the cd-players?
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The more you learn, the more you realize how little you know... My blog, go have a look |
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#5 |
diyAudio Member
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Just discovered that I made the most embarassing mistake ever(I think).
Both sleeds are now opening and closing just fine, I had forgotten to remove the transportscrews under both cd-players ![]()
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The more you learn, the more you realize how little you know... My blog, go have a look |
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#6 |
diyAudio Member
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The more you learn, the more you realize how little you know... My blog, go have a look |
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#7 |
diyAudio Member
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Will Wima MKS2 220nF/63V be a good choise to replace the stock caps around the TDA1541A(green caps in this pic, borrowed pic, a member of a Swedish forum modding a CD94)?
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The more you learn, the more you realize how little you know... My blog, go have a look |
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#8 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Download a service manual - you're going to need it I think.
The info you want is right here on this forum - ' search ' really works. Stop rushing - look at your transit bolts issue as an example ![]() Loads of TDA stuff available already Now I see you are at it again with the Phillips post - I say just buy it and use that as your frankenstein and experiment. If it still works and is better afterwards then apply the mods to the marantz victims ![]() Your being ignored I'm sure - so many quick fire questions, it's exhausting. Pull up a bit and write a list down of all the things you find that have been tried and work. Start simply, post some pics up here of your work and you'll find people get involved. Breathe !!! It's supposed to be a hobby not an assault course ![]() |
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#9 |
diyAudio Member
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Point taken
![]() I have the service manual, just waiting for my dear old mother to print it out(easier then running to the pc all the time). Started by lifting the lid and removing the clamp(?): ![]() There was a grove in the little white plast "thingy" , so I glued on a fresh, flat surface (will use a scalpell to trim it nicely later before putting it back: ![]() TDA1541A and SAA7220P/B: ![]() ![]() That's all for today.
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The more you learn, the more you realize how little you know... My blog, go have a look |
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#10 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Good start
At least you have the 1541 A and the 7220 B. Do the caps around the dac chip ( like in your pic ) do the diodes in the PS section with UF4007 and replace all the main PS caps with something like Panasonic FC's - up the value of these a little if you must or have room. Clock from Vintage Audio Lab ( it's the red one ! ) and better op amps like LME49710's if they are singles or LME49720's if doubles. Power the clock separately if you can. Should blow your socks off !! There's loads more to do.. naturally... but best done once you get really familiar with it. These early mods can sometimes bring the largest audible steps and the latter ones just polish it off nicely. Loads of bitumen pads anywhere / everywhere and also any places on the transport to stop the rattles and buzzes. Your enthusiasm is fantastic ( most if us still have it ) just take your time and you'll end up with something you'll not quite believe and never want to part with. TDA based machines can sound quite fantastic and hold their own easily with modern and expensive stuff - you'll see !! Good luck Andrew |
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