Go Back   Home > Forums > >

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Marantz CD-50 and CD-60, TDA1541, CDM4/19
Marantz CD-50 and CD-60, TDA1541, CDM4/19
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 3rd March 2015, 01:28 AM   #661
Stabby is offline Stabby  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Can I use a regular wall adapter (12V DC) to feed an LM317 for the SAA7220? I won't have the necessary parts to build my own PSU for a couple weeks but I wouldn't mind a preview of what to expect!
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2015, 03:51 PM   #662
Stabby is offline Stabby  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
I removed the LM317 at the DAC. I made the mistake of not taking into account the LM317's 1.25V voltage drop. I measured and the TDA1543 was running at only 3.75V!

I put the LM317 at the SAA7220, feeding the input from the PSU prereg. This is a huge improvement! Much more clarity and everything sounds more lifelike. I'm extremely happy with this mod!

Next up: opamps! I will try both LME49720 and LME49860. I think I might order a Flea kit as well to do a clock upgrade.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2015, 07:59 PM   #663
Stabby is offline Stabby  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Opamps replaced. I found the LME49720 too bright and not very comfortable to listen to. That could be because of CD610's bad power supply to the opamps though since it sounds brilliant in my slightly modded Marantz CD63. Then again I did way more mods to increase clarity in the CD610, maybe the LME49720 was a bit too much on top of all that.

Current opamps installed are NE5532. They sound more mellow and comfortable to me. Any suggestions for other mellow opamps?

Also I officially hate lytic DC blocking caps now. I removed the Silmics and it sounds much smoother without them. Maybe the Silmics just haven't had enough break-in but it's much better without them.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2015, 08:33 PM   #664
Stabby is offline Stabby  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
I'm having my first problem. Suddenly the player decides to automatically fastforward and when I turn the player on and off I hear a pop so there's something wrong with mute. Any idea?
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2015, 09:18 PM   #665
Stabby is offline Stabby  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Muting is restored by putting the (polarised!) DC blocking caps back. Apparently there needs be a polarised component in place of the DC blocking cap if I want to remove it. Any suggestions?

Also at times the player still starts to fastforward by itself. Turning off and on fixes it, sometimes for an hour, other times for only 5 minutes. Where should I look for the cause of this problem?

Last edited by Stabby; 3rd March 2015 at 09:24 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2015, 10:05 PM   #666
Stabby is offline Stabby  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
I tried replacing the DC blocking cap with a resistor which didn't work. Then tried a 4.7uF non-polar Panasonic polypropylene cap and muting is back to normal. So it looks like some capacitance is required for muting to function, polar or non-polar.

Not sure if I like the sound of the Pana film caps...
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th March 2015, 01:09 AM   #667
Stabby is offline Stabby  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
It's getting lonely here!

Anyway, I change my mind about the Pana film caps. Combined with the LME49720 they sound SUPERB in the low to low-mid frequencies. Higher mids are smooth, I could listen for hours at high volume. Treble is definitely missing though (no DC caps made for great treble). Also tried LME49860 + Pana caps but bass and lows were way too heavy.

Defined low mids are what I've always been looking for. I'll put some inductors/ferrites and Oscons at all the digital chips where I haven't put any yet and see what it does for clarity.

Last edited by Stabby; 4th March 2015 at 01:14 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th June 2015, 03:42 PM   #668
Stabby is offline Stabby  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Getting back to work. My Philips CD610 wasn't a very successful experiment. Made a lot of changes but it didn't sound much better than an unmodded CD620, even after putting in seperate LM317 based regulators for both TDA1541 and SAA7220. Then again, the CD610 has a TDA1543 while CD620 has a TDA1541A, and the CD610 had NO regulation for +/-15V Opamp rails, so I they weren't really comparable to begin with.

Problem is regulators mostly. I've done a lot of searching around but I remain clueless on anything more complicated than an LM317. Can't find any suitable and simple shunt reg schematics, and something like an Spower reg or Salas would cost at least €50 for bare PCB + good parts.

Advice regarding regulators is very welcome but I'm not really expecting to find a cheap solution anymore...

I'm setting up my next order and these are the plans I have for another player (CD620 most likely):

- UCC PSA polymer caps (220uF) for DAC digital rails (supposedly the best affordable alternative for Oscons), Nichicon R7 100uF polymers for other digital rails.
- Toroidal transformer + TPR for SAA7220
- Regulator for TDA1541? Can't find anything simple/affordable so will likely just use LM7805... but I'm dying to find a better alternative
- Nichicon KZ lytics for analog rails
- Coupling caps: replace 100uF bipolar with 2x 100uF Silmic II back to back
- DEM mod
- Same mods I did with CD610: replace diodes, opamps, prereg caps as large as possible
- Maybe: Flea clock

Other than that I don't know what more I could do without spending a lot of time and money.

Last edited by Stabby; 7th June 2015 at 03:50 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th October 2015, 06:51 PM   #669
starkeyg is offline starkeyg
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sourhern MI
Regarding the Silamc caps - Cycil Bates research on caps showed that replacing a polar electrolytic cap with a bipolar one can cut the distortion by 1/4 or so. If you increase the capacitance size (uf) / or the voltage rating, you can cut it even further.

I replaced 220uf/16v/polar silmac caps in the output of my marantz sa/cd player and noticed what sounded to me as a more balanced sound. IMHO. Used 220uf/25v/bipolar panasonic SU caps. Pretty happy with the results. FWIW.

Regards,
Greg
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th December 2015, 10:26 PM   #670
dogwan is offline dogwan  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
A big thank you to all the originators and contributors to this thread!

I recently picked up a Philips CD-60 from a local electronics recycler for $23 and it appears near mint.

After re-greasing the bearing (no divots!) in the stabilizer puck and adding mass it tracks like a champ! This is THE FASTEST initializing cd player I've ever seen.

All evidence leads me to believe this unit has very low hours. No signs of distress on the drawer gear. No lettering wear marks on or around any of the buttons.

Have already removed variable output and headphone section and replaced output coupling caps with 10uf films and it is sounding really good. Still a little grainy on the top end.

Ordered all the parts yesterday to start modding it. Have a copy of the Marantz CD-50 manual and appears identical. Some details are pretty cool like copper screws throughout, nice aluminum feet, polished copper backplate (see pic). But then the thin undamped cover and galvanized bottom plate have me scratching my head.

Here's what I plan on doing....
-Full recap of PS (based on rec's of UV101)
-Upgrade opamps to LME49720HA (also my favorite)
-Replace Diodes with Schottky's
-Install an IEC inlet for better power cord (also provide tap point to wire in....
-2x transformers for independent (local) regulated PS to 5v rails for 7220 and 7310 chips
-upgrade all local decoupling for chips and opamps
-DEM lock cap
-Copper line and damp with Dynamat chassis.

That's probably as far as I will take it, but may consider re-clocking if I can figure that out. Pretty sure this is going to replace my Rega Planet2000.

An externally hosted image should be here but it is no longer accessible. Please upload images instead of linking to them to prevent this.

An externally hosted image should be here but it is no longer accessible. Please upload images instead of linking to them to prevent this.

Last edited by dogwan; 16th December 2015 at 10:39 PM.
  Reply to this post

Reply


Marantz CD-50 and CD-60, TDA1541, CDM4/19Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Marantz CD-40 (TDA1541A & CDM4): need help! Malefoda Digital Source 1 29th December 2009 03:29 PM
FREE Marantz CD-50 SE metal-plastic chassis (CDM4 based) happycat Swap Meet 0 7th June 2009 03:34 PM
Tube stereo for E 60 including TDA1541 cd player Westerp Tubes / Valves 3 27th April 2009 03:04 PM
FS: Ariston CD1 cd player, CDM4/19 + TDA1541A(si)+OPA627BP mudihan Swap Meet 13 6th July 2006 05:24 AM
CD-RW on CDM4/19 players.... Lyra Digital Source 3 25th May 2004 07:02 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:45 AM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 14.29%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2021 diyAudio
Wiki