Upgrading & modding new Oppos, BDP-93 & BDP-95

[Joe Rasmussen]

Hi Coris

Just been made aware of two older Oppo 95's not starting up when you push the On button. I think it is likely that the caps in the olde switch mode PS have stopped working and needs replacement caps. Have you come across this before?

-Joe

[ferjablito]

Hi Coris, changing the wiring to the new Dac, I broke the socket, and it has been impossible to fix which I have to change the pcb

[Coris]

Originally Posted by Joe Rasmussen

Hi Coris

Just been made aware of two older Oppo 95's not starting up when you push the On button. I think it is likely that the caps in the olde switch mode PS have stopped working and needs replacement caps. Have you come across this before?

-Joe

Hi Joe

This issue it can occur by few different causes. The state of the SMPS is quite easy to check it, by measuring its outputs. If SMPS voltages are into right limits, then this cause it can be eliminated. In standby, the SMPS it provide power to the standby circuit (always powered), where the ON button is part of it. I will suspect this section when the device does not start up. Also the state of the switching chips on main board it can be another cause, for the device not starting up (not functioning switching devices - not providing power tot he system).

[Coris]

Originally Posted by ferjablito

Hi Coris, changing the wiring to the new Dac, I broke the socket, and it has been impossible to fix which I have to change the pcb

Hi
I am still thinking it could not be a so catastrophic damage in your case. Could you provide a picture of the damaged area?
However, I am very sceptical about the possibility of finding a spare PCB for your device... A request about addressed to the Oppo himself, it could be another alternative as well...

[lordvader]

Originally Posted by Coris

Hi Joe

This issue it can occur by few different causes. The state of the SMPS is quite easy to check it, by measuring its outputs. If SMPS voltages are into right limits, then this cause it can be eliminated. In standby, the SMPS it provide power to the standby circuit (always powered), where the ON button is part of it. I will suspect this section when the device does not start up. Also the state of the switching chips on main board it can be another cause, for the device not starting up (not functioning switching devices - not providing power tot he system).

I have a similar issue. When I tap the power button, the device "powers up", as in the blue led lights up, but the display doesn't start, and it doesn't do anything. I have to long press the power button to turn it off, then power it up again. It powers up correctly the second time.

Would this be a similar problem?

[Coris]

I think here is more likely that the analogue section (its power system) is not working properly. One of the analogue power rails may not have the right voltages (due to the old filter caps failure).
The analogue power section it is monitored by some circuits. The result of this monitoring it is sent to the main processor. If the analogue power it fail, the device get looked somehow, or it shut down.
Clocking issues it may also cause similar behaviour.

[ferjablito]

Hi Coris here you are

[Coris]

Originally Posted by ferjablito

Hi Coris here you are

Well, I could see in your picture a wire end (I suppose, coax) with a printed circuit pad attached on it. It could be more useful to see the damaged area on the PCB itself, for a better appreciation...

[ferjablito]

Hi Coris, I attached more photos
[IMG][url=https://subefotos.com/ver/?6d03d33fe036cb261da840dd68ef60c4o.jpg]
[IMG][url=https://subefotos.com/ver/?a352d07736f465e3fc68263b8653d5e0o.jpg]

[Coris]

Alright. In my understanding, the issue it consist in a damaged pad on the PCB (resonator pad). For sure, such damage is not catastrophic for the entire PCB, and may not justify replacing of the whole PCB.
The damage occurred as result of soldering an enough big coax cable to a very fine PCB pad. The pad couldn`t sustain the high temperature of the soldering (in this case), and couldn`t resist to the high mechanical tension caused by a quite big coax wire.
My suggestions/recommendations:
- follow the trace coming from damaged pad (using a magnifier device), and find a new soldering point for clock signal insertion. This new soldering point it could be just the end of another component.
- appreciate the use of a very thin and flexible coax wire. In such cases, solder first the shield of the coax cable to a ground point (large and solid copper area on the PCB, very near to the signal insertion point). Scratch the ground area to create a soldering point. Pre-solder that ground point, before soldering the shield of the coax to it. Then route and solder the central wire of the coax to the signal insertion point. Supplementary, use some kind of glue to immobilise the entire coax quite near the soldering point on the PCB. Manipulate the coax only after the glue it hardened.
- use an appropriate soldering iron (low power and temperature controlled) in such fine operations, and do not keep too much the soldering tip on the soldering point. As soon as you see the soldering melting, remove the soldering tip at once. Use an appropriate flux to improve the joint, and minimise the soldering time.
- (optional, send me that board for fixing).