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Audio Alchemy DDS-PRO Transport
Audio Alchemy DDS-PRO Transport
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Old 25th April 2012, 12:03 PM   #31
marko1 is offline marko1  Slovenia
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Hi, there is no need for arguing ! You help me both enough ! Everything will be ok. Transport is already on the table and I have start changing caps. I have some left overs so its gone be perfect. Panasonic FM, Nichicon KZ and Elna Silmic II ! Its not to complicated as I tough ! Other wise my DDS Pro is 220v and its in the perfect shape. Like new. Right now is not my first digital transport. I'm using Ipod with dock Onkyo modified and thats the best digital transport for me, so far! DDS Pro is staying with me because I love Alchemy and its steel one of the best! I'm using all the time DTI Pro 32 befor my heavily modified MSB Link DAC ! Regards Marko
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Old 26th April 2012, 05:06 AM   #32
stephensank is offline stephensank  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoNic_real_one View Post
I don't know the DAC but your claim is hard to belive, that's it.
They put 24VDC in capacitors rated for and regs that are supposed to output probably 9-12V? What regs are those? 7805 for 9-12V range has a max input 27V...
Maybe the transformers where the issue in your US models. Based on the fact that is a Pioneer PD-S703, did they used the one for Japan market (100V) in US (120V)?
He probably has the model for 230-240V (european market).
I stated this quite clearly already- On the clock/supply board, which is the Audio Alchemy-made board in the unit, NOT a Pioneer board, for god knows what reason, AA installed 100uf/16V caps on the PRE-REG, i.e., INPUT SIDE of all of the regs, about half of which are being fed 23V-24VDC, whether or not the power supply unit is wired for & run on 120VAC or 240VAC. It's called a production mistake, which seems, unfortunately, to have happened on the majority of DDS-Pro units produced. It is possible that AA knew that they were doing this, but designed the board & mounting accidentally with too little space for the value/voltage/quality caps they had intended(and indicated on schem), but knew that Nichicons would last for years running 50% over rated voltage, which they could do with a high degree of confidence, in my view. When they start dying, they don't simply short, but, rather, leak electrolyte & current, causing all manner of mischief in the supply voltages. The most typical first sign of trouble is EXACTLY what the OP describes.
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Old 26th April 2012, 05:10 AM   #33
stephensank is offline stephensank  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko1 View Post
Hi, there is no need for arguing ! You help me both enough ! Everything will be ok. Transport is already on the table and I have start changing caps. I have some left overs so its gone be perfect. Panasonic FM, Nichicon KZ and Elna Silmic II ! Its not to complicated as I tough ! Other wise my DDS Pro is 220v and its in the perfect shape. Like new. Right now is not my first digital transport. I'm using Ipod with dock Onkyo modified and thats the best digital transport for me, so far! DDS Pro is staying with me because I love Alchemy and its steel one of the best! I'm using all the time DTI Pro 32 befor my heavily modified MSB Link DAC ! Regards Marko
For heaven's sake, PLEASE don't use Panasonic or Elna caps! If you want this unit to hold up as admirably as it has, keep it Nichicon, unless you enjoy replacing caps & cleaning up damage from VERY corrosive leaked electrolyte every five or so years, from caps run well within their rated voltages. It would be a very large insult to this lovely transport to use other than Nichicons.
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Old 26th April 2012, 01:15 PM   #34
marko1 is offline marko1  Slovenia
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Now you gate me warred ! Way you have such bad filing about Panasonics and Elnas ?
Elna Silmic II has been recognized as the best of all, right behind the Black Gates and than
comes Nichicon which I realy like ! Panaconics are ok too ! But than again replaced Nichicons apart from green ones are nothing special. I dont now, I have all already instal caps I mention. Values are the same but voltage is higher ! Its 50v for all !
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Old 26th April 2012, 09:55 PM   #35
SoNic_real_one is offline SoNic_real_one  United States
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I like the Nichicon's (Muse ES, use them in my DAC's) but I don't think Elna SilmicII is a bad choice. Unless they where bought from chinese eBay sellers and then is... whatever they had at hand.
I didn't use Panasonic FM... so I cannot judge them on anything but datasheet.
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Old 27th April 2012, 03:57 AM   #36
stephensank is offline stephensank  United States
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I have been servicing high end audio, among other things, for 30+ years, and I see which cap brands are reliable & which are not, as well as how well they perform for audio. Elna & Panasonic/Matsushita are the two most guaranteed-to-fail cap brands in Japan, followed not far behind by Rubycon(Black Gate). Frankly, if a lytic cap is likely to fail in just a few years, or even ten or fifteen, I DON'T consider it an upgrade. Further, those doing comparisons between lytics generally fail to take two big factors into consideration. First, it takes at least 400 hours of rigorous use for any lytic to even come close to fully breaking in. At least. Secondly, only an idiot would depend on lytics for any sort of finesse, whether in supply or signal path. Even the best lytic starts to become a resistor, below or not far beyond 20kHz, so any hope of smoothness & spaciousness comes from adding nice film caps in parallel. Oh, and third, it almost seems like I am the only designer that understands that the caps after the regs should add up to nearly as large or larger than the pre-reg cap size, and as much of that as possible needs to be as close to each signal device as possible. So, if you can hear the difference between regulator types, you have failed to install enough capacity post-reg, and if you hear the difference between lytic brands, you have failed to adequately bypass with films, and/or use large enough lytic values.
Anyway, just lytic-for-lytic, I think upper grade Nichicons perform as well or better than any other brand, and I absolutely know for a solid FACT that they are, by far, the most long-term bulletproof reliable, as demonstrated by how long they survived the extreme abuse in your DDS, even down to the cheaper grades of the brand. The upper grades of Nippon ChemiCon are a not too distant second in reliability, and are the only other lytic brand I ever use.
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Old 27th April 2012, 11:44 AM   #37
marko1 is offline marko1  Slovenia
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stephensank

I think that you convinced me ! Im very happy with Nichicons too ! So far and for now I have change caps and I will leave it as it is ! Later I will order some good Nichicons and change all ! As a I mention before its all dun, but now I have a problem with other things.
It dasent work at all ! I went try everything and it doesn't power on. One regulator LM317 is not working.Nothing wrong with him but it doesn't get supply of power. Cant gate to the point where is the problem. One of LMs regulatorors is gate in very hot ??? Third, I have notice on the Pioneer board there is a 2 chip regulator. One of them is very hot too ? Apart from that I have a question.
To power up transport do they boards mast be mounted bask and fixed because the ground is connected with the long screw ! Or transport is supposed to power any way with out to be mounted ??? Right now is in hands of my good friend service man with hum today I spend few hours looking for mistake ! Intriguing that such simple thing make such big problems ! Drives me mad !
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Old 4th January 2017, 06:43 PM   #38
Kursum is offline Kursum  Serbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephensank View Post
The DDS-Pro is literally a Pioneer PD-S703, with an upgraded clock board added. Part of the AA service manual for the unit is the service info for the PD-S703, plainly labeled as such. Good transport, other than the not uncommon occurrence of the lens falling out of the laser pickup, whiich is an easy fix.
Hi stephensank,

I become owner of one Audio Alchemy DDS transport, and it is very useful to know what was your expirience. But i would like to ask you one more question. My intention is to find one donor of PEA1179, just in case. Can I use any Pioneer with PEA1179 or it must be PEA1179 Stable Platter or just Pioneer PD-S703 is valid donor?
Thanks
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Old 6th January 2017, 10:26 PM   #39
Kursum is offline Kursum  Serbia
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Anyone else, pls?
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Old 7th January 2017, 10:54 PM   #40
stephensank is offline stephensank  United States
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It doesn't matter from what model, as long as you thoroughly verify the PEA1179 to be "scavenged" is working perfectly.
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