Hi,
I'm from Portugal and i'm new on the world of Modifing and Tweaking.
I have, from months, a CD Marantz 60 modified with a Philips CDM4 and a TDA1541A DAC.
The CD 60 have a beutifull sound, very natural and precisious. All acoustics instruments and voices are simple gregorius. Jazz, ethno, world music... , but i also listen heavy metal and this kind of music have high frequencies. I think that the DAC with high frequecies get a liltle confused.
Recently i aquired a Radford WS1 CD Player. What can i do to get him better?
The seller told me that the drawer sometimes doesn't open and said that the problem may be fixed just by replacing the drive-belt or replace the mechanism altogether. Where can i find this?
All the best
I'm from Portugal and i'm new on the world of Modifing and Tweaking.
I have, from months, a CD Marantz 60 modified with a Philips CDM4 and a TDA1541A DAC.
The CD 60 have a beutifull sound, very natural and precisious. All acoustics instruments and voices are simple gregorius. Jazz, ethno, world music... , but i also listen heavy metal and this kind of music have high frequencies. I think that the DAC with high frequecies get a liltle confused.
Recently i aquired a Radford WS1 CD Player. What can i do to get him better?
The seller told me that the drawer sometimes doesn't open and said that the problem may be fixed just by replacing the drive-belt or replace the mechanism altogether. Where can i find this?
All the best
Woodside Electronics web site (August 2002): Radford audio products have been produced since the 1960's when the STA range of Amplifiers was launched along with the DSM pre-amplifier.
The series 3 STA25 along with other Amplifiers in the STA range won critical acclaim. The Mk II and Series 3 Amplifiers used a unique pentode phase inverter that was a joint venture between Dr A R Bailey and Arthur Radford and was the subject of a detailed article in Wireless World.
However Arthur Radford's greatest love was for his loudspeaker designs and the rear termination of drivers. After many years of work he eventually took out a Patent in conjunction with Dr A R Bailey for the first transmission line loudspeaker. This system was the basis for all his larger designs and is still used by many well-known Manufacturers to this day.
At the peak Radford had four factories employing 160 personnel producing metalwork, painting, printing, transformer and PCB manufacture all in house.
As he approached retirement he wound down the Company and ceased trading in 1989
The series 3 STA25 along with other Amplifiers in the STA range won critical acclaim. The Mk II and Series 3 Amplifiers used a unique pentode phase inverter that was a joint venture between Dr A R Bailey and Arthur Radford and was the subject of a detailed article in Wireless World.
However Arthur Radford's greatest love was for his loudspeaker designs and the rear termination of drivers. After many years of work he eventually took out a Patent in conjunction with Dr A R Bailey for the first transmission line loudspeaker. This system was the basis for all his larger designs and is still used by many well-known Manufacturers to this day.
At the peak Radford had four factories employing 160 personnel producing metalwork, painting, printing, transformer and PCB manufacture all in house.
As he approached retirement he wound down the Company and ceased trading in 1989
From what I have read, the Radford CD players were Philips based, likely same chipset as CD60.
It may perhaps use the CDM2 mech with a hall motor which is better then cdm4. The radford is likely to be a tweaked type player with better psu and maybe differnt op amps.
For all these chassis that use these chipsets putting a separate regulator on the SAA7220 filter yields good results. Soft recovery diodes, especially on analohue PSU is VERY worthwhile.
Why not mod one of the two players to NON O/S, you may like it on some or al lmusic.
It may perhaps use the CDM2 mech with a hall motor which is better then cdm4. The radford is likely to be a tweaked type player with better psu and maybe differnt op amps.
For all these chassis that use these chipsets putting a separate regulator on the SAA7220 filter yields good results. Soft recovery diodes, especially on analohue PSU is VERY worthwhile.
Why not mod one of the two players to NON O/S, you may like it on some or al lmusic.
I may be wrong but this transport may suffer from the same problem as the CDM4 and its variants, that is the plastic pulley loses the teeth from the pinion part. I've replaced quite a few of these, I bought them from a guy in China who sells on ebay. I've done a couple of the Quad CD players that use the same transport. Very easy to change if you are familiar with repair work. Take the Radford player to an Engineer if you are unsure.
Hi,
Thanks for the reply's.
The problem of the drawer i think i can fixe it. I already done the first clean up and it get better. Now i need to lubrificate him.
My problem now is with the laser. I don't know where to find a laser to fit there. I think that the transport is a CDM1 MKII and i think it's equal to my Marantz cd 60, but i don't know what laser i can search...
I'm from Portugal and have a friend that take a look inside the CDP and i already bougth from eBay 2 x LME49710 Audio Opamp - Single version of LM4562 to replace with original.
The CDP already have a fantastic sound. After the change of OpAmps my friend that already change to this OpAmp's on their Marantz CD63 KI, told me that the sound would gona be much better.
Next step is to change the clock. Any advise on this issue?
I'm a biginner on Mod's, but with the help of my friend, i'm learnig and enjoying.
Regards
Thanks for the reply's.
The problem of the drawer i think i can fixe it. I already done the first clean up and it get better. Now i need to lubrificate him.
My problem now is with the laser. I don't know where to find a laser to fit there. I think that the transport is a CDM1 MKII and i think it's equal to my Marantz cd 60, but i don't know what laser i can search...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm from Portugal and have a friend that take a look inside the CDP and i already bougth from eBay 2 x LME49710 Audio Opamp - Single version of LM4562 to replace with original.
The CDP already have a fantastic sound. After the change of OpAmps my friend that already change to this OpAmp's on their Marantz CD63 KI, told me that the sound would gona be much better.
Next step is to change the clock. Any advise on this issue?
I'm a biginner on Mod's, but with the help of my friend, i'm learnig and enjoying.
Regards
I didn't find find the 33uf philips cap. I cleaned all the lens mechanism, removed the outside plastic and clean the insid lens with carefull. I think it is better, but the problem could be on cap's. Now it plays CD-R to, but sometimes the time on screen keeps passing and don't give any sound to amp. When it hapened i opened the drawer, close and pull the standby button. It song again.
Sometimes it send to amp some electrical noises. Last saturday when i openned it and take over the CDM1 MKII mechanism i clean some of the dust of the board and it played 4 Original CD's without problems.
Thanks
Sometimes it send to amp some electrical noises. Last saturday when i openned it and take over the CDM1 MKII mechanism i clean some of the dust of the board and it played 4 Original CD's without problems.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks
Hi JMPires,
That's a really nice player, what a shame that it is not working so well. The first thing I would do is replace most of the electrolytic capacitors on the mainboard (the brown PCB), and probably all of the ones on the DAC board as well. These components are well out of date, as this player is probably 20 years old now. Doing that will most likely fix all of the problems you are having with the player.
I recently worked on a CAL Tempest 2, which uses the same Philips made mainboard as your Raford, and similarly used an add on DAC board. Because of this add-on DAC board, you won't need to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the mainboard. If you'd like, post a high res photo of the whole mainboard (you will have to remove the overlapping green PCB), and I can mark out which capacitors you should and should not replace.
I have posted a picture below of an unmodified version of this mainboard and one of the Philips players that used it, the CD782.
Anton
That's a really nice player, what a shame that it is not working so well. The first thing I would do is replace most of the electrolytic capacitors on the mainboard (the brown PCB), and probably all of the ones on the DAC board as well. These components are well out of date, as this player is probably 20 years old now. Doing that will most likely fix all of the problems you are having with the player.
I recently worked on a CAL Tempest 2, which uses the same Philips made mainboard as your Raford, and similarly used an add on DAC board. Because of this add-on DAC board, you won't need to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the mainboard. If you'd like, post a high res photo of the whole mainboard (you will have to remove the overlapping green PCB), and I can mark out which capacitors you should and should not replace.
I have posted a picture below of an unmodified version of this mainboard and one of the Philips players that used it, the CD782.
Anton
Attachments
Okay, here's the picture, the capacitors that should be replaced are highlighted yellow. The smaller picture at the right covers the part of the mainboard obscured by the DAC board.
You could also replace the electrolytic capacitors on the DAC board, but you don't need a diagram for that. They are the two black and three blue large cylinders towards the front of the player.
Could you say again exactly what goes wrong with the player? Your previous descriptions were a bit vague.
A clock upgrade would be particularly effective for this player. You'd be able to remove the second SAA7220 (yes, it has two) that only seems to function as a clock generator.
You could also replace the electrolytic capacitors on the DAC board, but you don't need a diagram for that. They are the two black and three blue large cylinders towards the front of the player.
Could you say again exactly what goes wrong with the player? Your previous descriptions were a bit vague.
A clock upgrade would be particularly effective for this player. You'd be able to remove the second SAA7220 (yes, it has two) that only seems to function as a clock generator.
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply...
Thanks..
Already clean everithing on the loader mechanism.
I gonna try to explain what is wrong with the player:
1 - The CDP didn't read CD-R and sometimes on original CD's, take to much time to recognize the CD other times when paying the CD, comes forwarding till give an error end stop.
- I think i solve the problem cleaning the lazer (inside the lens too) and using Laserology
Now it just take 2-4 seconds to recognize the CD and reads CD-R. I don't have any more forwarding like crazy, problem.
2 - When i turn on the CDP after a cople of days unpluged from power, he can read 1-3 CD's, after that it begin to make some elctrical noises to the speakers. I verified that when i open the drawer the same noises appear.
Yesterday, after the CDP turned off for a week, i put a original CD and only could listnen noise on the speakers. I onpened the drawer and push the start button and it played well all CD.
I Guess when the drawer open and close with to much noises to the speakers, then it will not gonna play the CD well.
3 - The drawer don't open very well. This is a mechanical problem and i think i can fix this.
I realy like and enjoy the sound of this CD Player. The soundstage is big, defined and have incredible well controled low frequencies. It's amazing.
I already bought 2 x LME49710 Audio Opamp - Single version of LM4562 to swap.
Witch clock upgrade should i use?
Thanks for helping
Sorry for the late reply...
Thanks..
Already clean everithing on the loader mechanism.
I gonna try to explain what is wrong with the player:
1 - The CDP didn't read CD-R and sometimes on original CD's, take to much time to recognize the CD other times when paying the CD, comes forwarding till give an error end stop.
- I think i solve the problem cleaning the lazer (inside the lens too) and using Laserology
Now it just take 2-4 seconds to recognize the CD and reads CD-R. I don't have any more forwarding like crazy, problem.
2 - When i turn on the CDP after a cople of days unpluged from power, he can read 1-3 CD's, after that it begin to make some elctrical noises to the speakers. I verified that when i open the drawer the same noises appear.
Yesterday, after the CDP turned off for a week, i put a original CD and only could listnen noise on the speakers. I onpened the drawer and push the start button and it played well all CD.
I Guess when the drawer open and close with to much noises to the speakers, then it will not gonna play the CD well.
3 - The drawer don't open very well. This is a mechanical problem and i think i can fix this.
I realy like and enjoy the sound of this CD Player. The soundstage is big, defined and have incredible well controled low frequencies. It's amazing.
I already bought 2 x LME49710 Audio Opamp - Single version of LM4562 to swap.
Witch clock upgrade should i use?
Thanks for helping
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