like I said about my new amp: ( http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=133265 )
There are the pics:
Output:
DAC under PCB:
So a CDM 9.65 mech with dead gear, BB OPA2604 with Nich Muse at their side. Another AOP near the PSU, a simple JRC4560.
Under the PCB is a SAA7321GP.
Anyone recognize a Philips CDP with has been upgraded with good result?
After havin my amp up I'll use the left parts here, maybe I'll have some LM4562 left, some caps...
Any toughts? Someone with schematic?
Thanks,
Matthieu
There are the pics:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Output:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
DAC under PCB:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So a CDM 9.65 mech with dead gear, BB OPA2604 with Nich Muse at their side. Another AOP near the PSU, a simple JRC4560.
Under the PCB is a SAA7321GP.
Anyone recognize a Philips CDP with has been upgraded with good result?
After havin my amp up I'll use the left parts here, maybe I'll have some LM4562 left, some caps...
Any toughts? Someone with schematic?
Thanks,
Matthieu
Hi
The only Philips player I could find with this chipset and CDM is the CDI-910.
Is the TDA8809 OK ? It looks fried or is that the photo ?
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/19593/PHILIPS/TDA8809T.html
It's a bitstream player so the usual things apply.
Multi-power supplies.
Change the output to discrete.
etc
The muse caps are good quality
Plenty of room for mods anyway !!!
Andy
The only Philips player I could find with this chipset and CDM is the CDI-910.
Is the TDA8809 OK ? It looks fried or is that the photo ?
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/19593/PHILIPS/TDA8809T.html
It's a bitstream player so the usual things apply.
Multi-power supplies.
Change the output to discrete.
etc
The muse caps are good quality
Plenty of room for mods anyway !!!
Andy
Hi Andy,
no it's in full working condition but the tray gear (not a prob anyway).
I'll go for free upgrade right now, not much even for it will be a bedroom, living room or even garage as I already have my budget system but well modded (even if the CDP still has its LM4562... another story). Maybe put no more used parts from my Marantz CD53 in this (as caps, regs or such...)
Bye bye AOP2604 and welome LM4562, bye bye muting transistors.
I haven't seen where the Muse are used, maye on the PS lines of the opamps? No DC blocking caps?
I don't know how sounds BB OPA2604 beside LM4562 but it will be an easy upgrade for sure. Have to find some Philips CDi infos seems!
Will tell ya!
no it's in full working condition but the tray gear (not a prob anyway).
I'll go for free upgrade right now, not much even for it will be a bedroom, living room or even garage as I already have my budget system but well modded (even if the CDP still has its LM4562... another story). Maybe put no more used parts from my Marantz CD53 in this (as caps, regs or such...)
Bye bye AOP2604 and welome LM4562, bye bye muting transistors.
I haven't seen where the Muse are used, maye on the PS lines of the opamps? No DC blocking caps?
I don't know how sounds BB OPA2604 beside LM4562 but it will be an easy upgrade for sure. Have to find some Philips CDi infos seems!
Will tell ya!
Ok I'll have a look, maybe take them away... integrated should have a DC blocking system anyway? I wonder how much DC offset I can allow at the CDP output... I need bass!
I have 3 VibraPod feet around, maybe sell them on eBay and get good caps instead, not sure feet is right now the way to go
I have 3 VibraPod feet around, maybe sell them on eBay and get good caps instead, not sure feet is right now the way to go
I use the OPA2604 ( OPA604 Single ) and find them the most musically pleasing to my ears. Haven't tried the LM4562.
When measuring DC offset you have to measure using the output ground as a ref point. Easiest way is to measure at the end of your cable plugged into the output. Connect a 10k ( anything from 1 k to 47 k and a 1 mfd or thereabouts cap to ground ) and measure DC millivolts across the cap.
When measuring DC offset you have to measure using the output ground as a ref point. Easiest way is to measure at the end of your cable plugged into the output. Connect a 10k ( anything from 1 k to 47 k and a 1 mfd or thereabouts cap to ground ) and measure DC millivolts across the cap.
Andy's pics about the origin of the B & W's Aura stuff:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If you may help me to choose the right caps, they must be cheap, it's not my main system, just want to refresh it for a good price (close to 0 amap !). Oscon/FC are exepensive? Or FC all the way even in digital? If the sound change on some caps then let them alone. If it's useless until I go for it tell me so I just go for LM4562 and fast rectifiers.
Around de DAC:
7x Nichicon VX (coffe machine stuff?) 33µF/16V,
and 4 more here and there.
other big cans:
2x Panasonic SU 470/16
1x Pana SU 3300/16
2x Pana SU 1000/16
1x Pana SU 220/63V
1x Nichi VX 2.2/50V
One per opamps at pin 5 is a Nichi VX 100/10V
and in signal the Muse 100/16V.
I still have 2x 470/10V Elna RJH, good on analog parts.
What where?
Maybe I can get rid of the Muse and fit them in the amp for the same job, why havin' 2 times these boring caps?! Once in amp is enough no? Or spend few euros for a real cap there, a film cap like an ClarityCap or such?... I'm asking that again in the amp thread.
Amp has 2x Rubycon NA non polar just after the potentiometer...
Thanks,
Matthieu
Around de DAC:
7x Nichicon VX (coffe machine stuff?) 33µF/16V,
and 4 more here and there.
other big cans:
2x Panasonic SU 470/16
1x Pana SU 3300/16
2x Pana SU 1000/16
1x Pana SU 220/63V
1x Nichi VX 2.2/50V
One per opamps at pin 5 is a Nichi VX 100/10V
and in signal the Muse 100/16V.
I still have 2x 470/10V Elna RJH, good on analog parts.
What where?
Maybe I can get rid of the Muse and fit them in the amp for the same job, why havin' 2 times these boring caps?! Once in amp is enough no? Or spend few euros for a real cap there, a film cap like an ClarityCap or such?... I'm asking that again in the amp thread.
Amp has 2x Rubycon NA non polar just after the potentiometer...
Thanks,
Matthieu
Think you will find changing the OpAmps give the biggest differences.
The only way too tell is to listen long and carefully after each change.
To be honest, my opinion is that just changing PSU caps for different types will not give any audible change. Local decoupling at critical points can be beneficial, like the caps on the OpAmp supply pins etc but differences are tiny -- more wishful thinking more often than not.
The only way too tell is to listen long and carefully after each change.
To be honest, my opinion is that just changing PSU caps for different types will not give any audible change. Local decoupling at critical points can be beneficial, like the caps on the OpAmp supply pins etc but differences are tiny -- more wishful thinking more often than not.
That's a good advice. The only thing I find strange is... I can't find any caps on supply pins of the opamps! Or they are far away near the rectifiers and regs... have a look.
I think I'll stick to my first idea, just grant this stuff (CDP and amp) with spare or upgraded parts of my loved system. No way for this to face my Marantz
I think I'll stick to my first idea, just grant this stuff (CDP and amp) with spare or upgraded parts of my loved system. No way for this to face my Marantz
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