Newbie here looking for help. love my music and did in the 90s spend a bit of money on the following.
Oblisk 2 amp
Marantz cd-67se cd player
B&W P4s
Can't remember the speaker cable or interconnects but they were all upgraded.
My problem is the CD player, it started to skip even on new clean disks. Plus we started to save music onto the computer and i connected the Amp to the computor and listened to music that way.
I'm not into spending £1000 and i don't get that much chance to listen to music at home but would like to play the odd CD.
Please help do i buy a second hand unit repair mine or buy a Cambridge Audio c5 for £100.
Plus i bought the Marantz new from 7oaks when they were being sold off, so i know it's been looked after ad had little use.
thanks for any help
Chris.
Oblisk 2 amp
Marantz cd-67se cd player
B&W P4s
Can't remember the speaker cable or interconnects but they were all upgraded.
My problem is the CD player, it started to skip even on new clean disks. Plus we started to save music onto the computer and i connected the Amp to the computor and listened to music that way.
I'm not into spending £1000 and i don't get that much chance to listen to music at home but would like to play the odd CD.
Please help do i buy a second hand unit repair mine or buy a Cambridge Audio c5 for £100.
Plus i bought the Marantz new from 7oaks when they were being sold off, so i know it's been looked after ad had little use.
thanks for any help
Chris.
Definitely not turps !!!
Lens cleaners with brushes are OK but it depends which type.
One has several small brushes (bristles) and is really useless.
The other has one or two larger brushes. This is better but in my opinion, after many years experience, is only effective if used wet. Some kits come with lens cleaning fluid otherwise a little isopropyl alcohol.
This is not as good as giving the mechanism a good clean!!
Removal is easy. Open the drawer and remove the front.
Carefully disconnect the ribbon, at board end only and the other connectors, remove 3 screws and hey presto.
You can then carefully clean the lens with a cotton bud dampened with lens cleaner.
Also clean the gears and slider mechanism of all grease deposits. These harden over time and prevent proper function. However, do NOT regrease !! Not required.
Reassembly is the reverse. Be careful with the ribbon. release the latching bar.
Should take 15mins start to end.
Good luck
Andy
Lens cleaners with brushes are OK but it depends which type.
One has several small brushes (bristles) and is really useless.
The other has one or two larger brushes. This is better but in my opinion, after many years experience, is only effective if used wet. Some kits come with lens cleaning fluid otherwise a little isopropyl alcohol.
This is not as good as giving the mechanism a good clean!!
Removal is easy. Open the drawer and remove the front.
Carefully disconnect the ribbon, at board end only and the other connectors, remove 3 screws and hey presto.
You can then carefully clean the lens with a cotton bud dampened with lens cleaner.
Also clean the gears and slider mechanism of all grease deposits. These harden over time and prevent proper function. However, do NOT regrease !! Not required.
Reassembly is the reverse. Be careful with the ribbon. release the latching bar.
Should take 15mins start to end.
Good luck
Andy
Hello Poynton,
Seem to be following each other round at the moment
Same interest in CD I guess. Is this a CDM 12.x ?
For the very brave see,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=118902&highlight=
and also
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=127795&highlight=
A proper lens cleaning fluid is the best thing to use. Tease the end of the cotton out so it's not to hard. Don't wet the lens so it drys with marks on it. Interesting you mention iso. Sony used to recommend this in the early days, I remember them mentioning it in service manuals, and then they did a U turn on it's use. Some lenses use coated optics, the ones with a bluey purple tinge to them, and they said it could harm the coating.
Seem to be following each other round at the moment
Same interest in CD I guess. Is this a CDM 12.x ?For the very brave see,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=118902&highlight=
and also
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=127795&highlight=
A proper lens cleaning fluid is the best thing to use. Tease the end of the cotton out so it's not to hard. Don't wet the lens so it drys with marks on it. Interesting you mention iso. Sony used to recommend this in the early days, I remember them mentioning it in service manuals, and then they did a U turn on it's use. Some lenses use coated optics, the ones with a bluey purple tinge to them, and they said it could harm the coating.
power on
eject tray
switch off by removing plug from mains
remove tray front upwards
replace plug and close tray
unplug
remove player lid
remove ribbon cable from main board to cd mechanism (carefully lift retaining bar)
remove cables from cd mechanism to main board
remove 3 screws holding cd mechanism
remove mechanism
eject tray
switch off by removing plug from mains
remove tray front upwards
replace plug and close tray
unplug
remove player lid
remove ribbon cable from main board to cd mechanism (carefully lift retaining bar)
remove cables from cd mechanism to main board
remove 3 screws holding cd mechanism
remove mechanism
ok i've clened the lens. I've not stripped the whole thing but i've teased some ceramic grease onto the main gears and the steel slider if that makes sence. Now the skipping as improved but not gone alltogether.
Do you think i need to fully strip down clean and grease or could it be something else?
I am running it over and over to see if the grease works it's way in and cleans out any debris from old hardened grease.
Update and this might give someone a clue. I've just noticed early tracks on a cd play but skip now and again. Then if you try and play track 6 it skipps every other seond! then if you try to play track 12 it wont even read it!
Any clues or is it dead!
Cheers Chris
Do you think i need to fully strip down clean and grease or could it be something else?
I am running it over and over to see if the grease works it's way in and cleans out any debris from old hardened grease.
Update and this might give someone a clue. I've just noticed early tracks on a cd play but skip now and again. Then if you try and play track 6 it skipps every other seond! then if you try to play track 12 it wont even read it!
Any clues or is it dead!
Cheers Chris
Hi Chris,
Without at least measuring the amplitude of the RF signal from the pickup ( to see if the laser emmision is OK ) we are guessing.
However the grease problem is well known. I don't see you have anything to lose. Just adding more grease isn't a good idea really, you have to 100% remove all the old stuff and that means a full strip down. If you havn't the correct stuff I would do as Poynton suggests and not use any.
Without putting the unit on the bench and doing a few basic checks all we can do is advise on the most common things -- and thats the grease.
Without at least measuring the amplitude of the RF signal from the pickup ( to see if the laser emmision is OK ) we are guessing.
However the grease problem is well known. I don't see you have anything to lose. Just adding more grease isn't a good idea really, you have to 100% remove all the old stuff and that means a full strip down. If you havn't the correct stuff I would do as Poynton suggests and not use any.
Without putting the unit on the bench and doing a few basic checks all we can do is advise on the most common things -- and thats the grease.
Mooly you've been a great help!
As you say nothing to loose and i love a project!
So full strip down and no grease.
Do you think the fact that it's playing better on tracks 1 to 5 is an indication of the gears or am i clutching at straws.
If it's the pick up are these expensive?
Any chance of more detail on stripping the geas down.
Again thanks for all the help.
Chris
As you say nothing to loose and i love a project!
So full strip down and no grease.
Do you think the fact that it's playing better on tracks 1 to 5 is an indication of the gears or am i clutching at straws.
If it's the pick up are these expensive?
Any chance of more detail on stripping the geas down.
Again thanks for all the help.
Chris
The pickups are not that expensive to replace.
However, there are a lot of chineese aftermarket versions around which do not seem to be any good or do not last long.
To clean the gears etc, I use meths to soften the grease and use cloths/cottonbuds/small brushes to get it off. The important bit being keep the lens clean.
The mech comes apart quite easily but note how it goes. Take photos if unsure.
Andy
However, there are a lot of chineese aftermarket versions around which do not seem to be any good or do not last long.
To clean the gears etc, I use meths to soften the grease and use cloths/cottonbuds/small brushes to get it off. The important bit being keep the lens clean.
The mech comes apart quite easily but note how it goes. Take photos if unsure.
Andy
Can someone advise good lense fluid, i must be honest i only used some from a kit that i bought 6/7 years ago. It was a VHF cleaning tape the type with a hole you put a few drops of fluid into and play the tape. I put 3 drops on a cotton bud and cleaned the lense.
Baring in mind i've now found that the problem is worse when you get to tracks 6/7 and onwards, what do people think? best quess, gears or pickup.
Great site thanks for the help.
Chris
Baring in mind i've now found that the problem is worse when you get to tracks 6/7 and onwards, what do people think? best quess, gears or pickup.
Great site thanks for the help.
Chris
O.K. You have to remove the drawer -- you have done that haven't you. Locate the plugs that the wires from the two motors and microswitch go to and carefully unplug. Don't pull on the wires - lever the plugs out of the sockets a bit at a time. Undo the foil ribbon from it's plug. The socket has a "locking bar" on the top. Carefully flick this away from the socket -- it is captive so don't force it and pull the ribbon out. That should be all the wire free.
Next release the 4 translucent suspension supports. Use a thin screwdriver to carefully flirt them out of the pickup. Don't try and release from the base as they firmly "locked" in.
The pickup should now be free. Look first where all the wires to the plugs and in particular where the ribbon is routed so you can replace it back the same.
On the chassis the little sled motor has to be released. It's held with a spring clip, usually where the white label on the chassis is. There are two slots in the plastic, jewellers screwdriver into one of them to release the clip. To replace it just press it very firmly and you will hear it click into place.
At this point if you push the pickup by hand does it feel free or can you feel it binding ?
The large gear is next removed, it's a push fit with little "Wings" holding it. They are tough, just gently ease it out.
Examine the gear -- if the small teeth have burr's on them your on to a loser I am afraid. If it's OK you must wash the gear and it's spindle. Use card to get all the old grease out. Same on the "rack" on the pickup that the gear fits in. To be honest I wouldn't attempt to remove the pickup itself unless you are feeling confident. If you do the metal rail is held by little wedges that flirt out.
Clean the worm gear, again use card etc to get in the teeth.
That's about it I think, if you havn't the correct grease don't put anything on. The large gear just pushes on -- carefully try not to put burrs on the teeth as it meshes with the pickup.
It doesnt matter where the pickup is, it will all sort itself out as soon as you power it up. Refit the sled motor and reassemble. Carefully reconnect the ribbon. Make sure it's pushed fully home then push the locking bar back with a screwdriver etc.
Good luck -- it's easy, just work slowly and note the run of any wires first.
Next release the 4 translucent suspension supports. Use a thin screwdriver to carefully flirt them out of the pickup. Don't try and release from the base as they firmly "locked" in.
The pickup should now be free. Look first where all the wires to the plugs and in particular where the ribbon is routed so you can replace it back the same.
On the chassis the little sled motor has to be released. It's held with a spring clip, usually where the white label on the chassis is. There are two slots in the plastic, jewellers screwdriver into one of them to release the clip. To replace it just press it very firmly and you will hear it click into place.
At this point if you push the pickup by hand does it feel free or can you feel it binding ?
The large gear is next removed, it's a push fit with little "Wings" holding it. They are tough, just gently ease it out.
Examine the gear -- if the small teeth have burr's on them your on to a loser I am afraid. If it's OK you must wash the gear and it's spindle. Use card to get all the old grease out. Same on the "rack" on the pickup that the gear fits in. To be honest I wouldn't attempt to remove the pickup itself unless you are feeling confident. If you do the metal rail is held by little wedges that flirt out.
Clean the worm gear, again use card etc to get in the teeth.
That's about it I think, if you havn't the correct grease don't put anything on. The large gear just pushes on -- carefully try not to put burrs on the teeth as it meshes with the pickup.
It doesnt matter where the pickup is, it will all sort itself out as soon as you power it up. Refit the sled motor and reassemble. Carefully reconnect the ribbon. Make sure it's pushed fully home then push the locking bar back with a screwdriver etc.
Good luck -- it's easy, just work slowly and note the run of any wires first.
Ok so i've not got around to it yet but i've managed to pick up a Arcam alpha 7 for £38! from ebay. It's only local so i'll pick it up tomorrow.
What does anyone think of the Arcam vs the Marantz?
I will try and fix the Marantz or if i like the Arcam i might sell the Marantz.
I'll let you know if it works and sounds good.
Cheers Chris.
What does anyone think of the Arcam vs the Marantz?
I will try and fix the Marantz or if i like the Arcam i might sell the Marantz.
I'll let you know if it works and sounds good.
Cheers Chris.
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