50 OHM TO 75 OHM MATCHING PAD
HI GUYS,
PLEASE CHIME IN. I'M PLANNING ON USING THIS 50 OHM TO 75 OHM MATCHING PAD FOR THE SPDIF OUTPUT AND WOULD LIKE TO GET YOUR OPINIONS ABOUT THIS ONE.
ATTACHED LINK: http://www.minicircuits.com/pdfs/BMP-5075R+.pdf
THANKS GUYS
HI GUYS,
PLEASE CHIME IN. I'M PLANNING ON USING THIS 50 OHM TO 75 OHM MATCHING PAD FOR THE SPDIF OUTPUT AND WOULD LIKE TO GET YOUR OPINIONS ABOUT THIS ONE.
ATTACHED LINK: http://www.minicircuits.com/pdfs/BMP-5075R+.pdf
THANKS GUYS
tubo you're SHOUTING, please abide by forum rules and turn off your caps lock. Thank you.
Got it. I forgot the caps lock.
Thanks
I ve been playing around with lubrication the last week. Mainly for my turntable, but it was a nice inspiration to look for some proper oils for the shigaclone as well.
Till now, I was using some general purpose thick grease that came in a green metal tube with no other indication other than general purpose grease.
While it did serve its purpose, looking back at my initial mecha it seems that the gears are now a bit yellowy and the grease seems to have dried a bit.
So after lots of reading and some advice from a friend who is into RC cars like... A LOT... I got some Xray silicone oil with 3000 viscosity for the plastic gears and some plain Singer sewing machine oil for the motor shafts.
I tried the 3000 silicone oil first on an old mecha to test its ability to stay on the plastic and not leak away, but it seemed thick enough. I have some 50000 too (usually used in the back RC car differentials), but I do not see any reason to stress the gears with thicker stuff. The 3000 seems perfect.
I lubed with it all the edges of gears including the line gear of the sled. I also lubed the metal slide and the other side of the sled and the holes of the axles that hold the gears in place. I should have dismantled the gearbox and added some within the gear tubes as well, but I am too bored to do it now. Perhaps next time that I do some stuff to it.
I have also added a tiny drop of the singer oil right on the shaft base of the motors. You do not want to soak it because we have no idea what the excess oil inside it could do. We just want a very thin layer between the shaft and the body.
The mechanical improvement is phenomenal in both cases.
The sled seems to be able to slide only on its weight (with the motor off the gearbox). And the motors when tested with a battery seem to spin WAY more silently and for longer periods of time after removing the battery poles.
As a unit, the mecha now works very silently. By the way, if you do not remember I am now using a Sanyo mecha, the one with the black plastic cover on the gears and the metal turntable.
From day one the most annoying thing with this mecha was that its gearbox was noisy and it was banging itself on the home position stop switch triggering the plastic suspension on the relevant gear for a click or two.
That was EVERY time on both mechas I got, and manamanam has the same issue. But the sound improvement was significant, so I just ignored it.
But now after the lubrication the problem has completely disappeared. Perhaps the sled was not running free enough and the extra current was not cut fast enough when the kill switch was hit.
But now everything runs PERFECTLY.
A brief listening session (due to time mostly) showed a significant increase in clarity and stereo imaging precision. But the most clear improvement was on the lower end. The lower drum notes are VERY distinct now. I could even perceive new ones and rhythms I have never heard before on CDs I know very well.
The sound seems to have lost a bit of its grandeur again, but overall the change is way positive.
Till now, I was using some general purpose thick grease that came in a green metal tube with no other indication other than general purpose grease.
While it did serve its purpose, looking back at my initial mecha it seems that the gears are now a bit yellowy and the grease seems to have dried a bit.
So after lots of reading and some advice from a friend who is into RC cars like... A LOT... I got some Xray silicone oil with 3000 viscosity for the plastic gears and some plain Singer sewing machine oil for the motor shafts.
I tried the 3000 silicone oil first on an old mecha to test its ability to stay on the plastic and not leak away, but it seemed thick enough. I have some 50000 too (usually used in the back RC car differentials), but I do not see any reason to stress the gears with thicker stuff. The 3000 seems perfect.
I lubed with it all the edges of gears including the line gear of the sled. I also lubed the metal slide and the other side of the sled and the holes of the axles that hold the gears in place. I should have dismantled the gearbox and added some within the gear tubes as well, but I am too bored to do it now. Perhaps next time that I do some stuff to it.
I have also added a tiny drop of the singer oil right on the shaft base of the motors. You do not want to soak it because we have no idea what the excess oil inside it could do. We just want a very thin layer between the shaft and the body.
The mechanical improvement is phenomenal in both cases.
The sled seems to be able to slide only on its weight (with the motor off the gearbox). And the motors when tested with a battery seem to spin WAY more silently and for longer periods of time after removing the battery poles.
As a unit, the mecha now works very silently. By the way, if you do not remember I am now using a Sanyo mecha, the one with the black plastic cover on the gears and the metal turntable.
From day one the most annoying thing with this mecha was that its gearbox was noisy and it was banging itself on the home position stop switch triggering the plastic suspension on the relevant gear for a click or two.
That was EVERY time on both mechas I got, and manamanam has the same issue. But the sound improvement was significant, so I just ignored it.
But now after the lubrication the problem has completely disappeared. Perhaps the sled was not running free enough and the extra current was not cut fast enough when the kill switch was hit.
But now everything runs PERFECTLY.
A brief listening session (due to time mostly) showed a significant increase in clarity and stereo imaging precision. But the most clear improvement was on the lower end. The lower drum notes are VERY distinct now. I could even perceive new ones and rhythms I have never heard before on CDs I know very well.
The sound seems to have lost a bit of its grandeur again, but overall the change is way positive.
Dimkasta, thanks for sharing your findings!
Recently I have revived by old Akai GX-F31 and GX-F35.
Akai GX-F35 GX F35 Service Kit 2 Cassette Tape Deck | eBay
I do not know the source of oil included in service KIT, but will work perfectly on Sanyo CD mechanic as well. Highly recommend.
Regards,
Tibi
Recently I have revived by old Akai GX-F31 and GX-F35.
Akai GX-F35 GX F35 Service Kit 2 Cassette Tape Deck | eBay
I do not know the source of oil included in service KIT, but will work perfectly on Sanyo CD mechanic as well. Highly recommend.
Regards,
Tibi
That sintered bearing oil would be perfect for the motors. It would be perfect for Technics SL1200 as well by the way
However for the plastic gears nothing comes even close to silicone or ptfe oil/grease. Not to mention that oils not specified for all plastics might react with the gears. Like my general purpose grease did turning them yellow.
By the way, I have opened the gearbox again this morning to lube the gear axles. There are traces of old dry oil there, so I guess lubrication was also part of the original manufacturing but got dry somewhere along its long storage life.
I have also noticed that the 3000 silicone oil has spread almost on the entire surface of the gears. Which is not a bad thing on its own. It is thick enough not to spill away from rotation, but I would feel better seeing it where I put it.
Perhaps the 50000 is a better idea after all. Or I just overdid it with the oil
I will leave it as it is for a few weeks and come back to you.
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I've got a jar of something marked "SILICONE GUN GREASE" (not shouting, iti s all in caps) that I got from a friend when an old genetlman passed away. I Suspect it is from the 60s or maybe even earlier by the looks of the jar and lable.
It is yellow and much softer than bees wax.
I wonder if this is worth trying?
It is yellow and much softer than bees wax.
I wonder if this is worth trying?
Hmmm.... didn't I already post a reply here? strange...
Anyway. I would get some proper RC car silicone oil just to be sure. That grease was not meant for lubricating plastic parts. And we cannot know what might be in a grease that was meant for cleaning and protecting metal or how could it react with plastic.
Anyway. I would get some proper RC car silicone oil just to be sure. That grease was not meant for lubricating plastic parts. And we cannot know what might be in a grease that was meant for cleaning and protecting metal or how could it react with plastic.
For parts out of gearboxes, plastic gears, racks and sliding shaft I would choose dry graphite lubricant. Oils and greases may collect domestic dust in a long term. Applying VERY carefully with cotton sticks, not spraying.
For motor shaft bearing Singer oil (SAE 10), any better. IMHO
Graphite Lubricant: Business & Industrial | eBay
For motor shaft bearing Singer oil (SAE 10), any better. IMHO
Graphite Lubricant: Business & Industrial | eBay
Graphite might be more suitable for dirty places like an RC car when we do not want dirt to stick to the plastic. It is also more suitable for more short lived parts where we do not really care if and how the lub might react with our gears, again like in RC cars where the gearboxes most times do not live through an entire season. It is also quite sticky and I think we need to keep the sled as fast as possible.
I thought I had already wrote that, but I cannot see it in the thread.
With a healthy maintenance program, like in a vinyl turntable, dust should not be an issue.
My suggestion is to use 3000 silicone oil and keep a nice maintenance schedule like in a turntable. My estimation is that something like once every 3-4 months should be more than adequate.
It s about 5 minutes tops, and the results are really rewarding. Kinda like Christmas morning for a DIYer
I thought I had already wrote that, but I cannot see it in the thread.
With a healthy maintenance program, like in a vinyl turntable, dust should not be an issue.
My suggestion is to use 3000 silicone oil and keep a nice maintenance schedule like in a turntable. My estimation is that something like once every 3-4 months should be more than adequate.
It s about 5 minutes tops, and the results are really rewarding. Kinda like Christmas morning for a DIYer
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http://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=76211.0;attach=134811;image
After 5000 playing hours my laser was degraded in such a way that I needed to implement a new one.
I completelely dismantled my PiTbull Reference and decided to give it a major upgrading as well....
Project will probably take a month or two
Here you can see me taking my homemade rvs laserboard apart and testing everything on wear and tear.
Good new is that wormwheels and traingear was not at all necessary to replace....
After 5000 playing hours my laser was degraded in such a way that I needed to implement a new one.
I completelely dismantled my PiTbull Reference and decided to give it a major upgrading as well....
Project will probably take a month or two
Here you can see me taking my homemade rvs laserboard apart and testing everything on wear and tear.
Good new is that wormwheels and traingear was not at all necessary to replace....
The fun was I tested my own RVS Board against a standard one (ofcoarse also equiped with the same Delrin platform and puck so the comparison is valid)
And the same findings came to light again...
The homemade board (Alu platform and RVS laserguidance sounded much more dynamic and tone was better being more realistic.
And the same findings came to light again...
The homemade board (Alu platform and RVS laserguidance sounded much more dynamic and tone was better being more realistic.
Very nice Erik!!
Last night while inspecting the lubricated gears and playing around with the mecha, I had an idea to replace the spindle motor with one with a smaller shaft to further reduce possible vibration, like for example with off-center discs. This would require the motor to be placed higher, or to create a higher turntable insert. So the idea came to me to build my own platform as well.
But I want to build it out of solid routed hard-wood. Something like ebony or wenge.
It should be pretty easy to do. The existing metal platform will work nicely as a template. The gearbox on my original Sanyo mecha comes off entirely so I would just have to screw it in place if I decide that making a new one also out of wood is much of a chore. The only thing that will require some attention is the stop switch, since I was thinking to place the motors tightly inside wood to further reduce their vibration.
Last night while inspecting the lubricated gears and playing around with the mecha, I had an idea to replace the spindle motor with one with a smaller shaft to further reduce possible vibration, like for example with off-center discs. This would require the motor to be placed higher, or to create a higher turntable insert. So the idea came to me to build my own platform as well.
But I want to build it out of solid routed hard-wood. Something like ebony or wenge.
It should be pretty easy to do. The existing metal platform will work nicely as a template. The gearbox on my original Sanyo mecha comes off entirely so I would just have to screw it in place if I decide that making a new one also out of wood is much of a chore. The only thing that will require some attention is the stop switch, since I was thinking to place the motors tightly inside wood to further reduce their vibration.
Hi Dimkasta,
I would be curious to see how you solve the wear and tear on the right hand side of the wooden board...being wood with a gliding plastic (small laser tracking arm) going over it a thousand times and more...
I myself did not find it easy to make the board it took me 10 hours.
I think your mother of tone vision can also be realized if you screw the standard board on ebony...the only problem is that the board and laser guidance still remain of magnetic material influencing the laser-spool...etc.
Anyway still great to see your research...
BTW
I myself always use white precision Teflon grease from ROBBE (used on toy cars and planes) I could still see that lubrication after 5000 hours.
Edit
I now know what board you are talking about...and that solves indeed a few problems straight away
I would be curious to see how you solve the wear and tear on the right hand side of the wooden board...being wood with a gliding plastic (small laser tracking arm) going over it a thousand times and more...
I myself did not find it easy to make the board it took me 10 hours.
I think your mother of tone vision can also be realized if you screw the standard board on ebony...the only problem is that the board and laser guidance still remain of magnetic material influencing the laser-spool...etc.
Anyway still great to see your research...
BTW
I myself always use white precision Teflon grease from ROBBE (used on toy cars and planes) I could still see that lubrication after 5000 hours.
Edit
I now know what board you are talking about...and that solves indeed a few problems straight away
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Hehe yes the right side slider is a bit tricky.
My initial though was to cannibalize a mecha and add a metal slider on that side too. It would just require a bit of filling of the plastic so that it hugs the metal rod. Oh and of course some lubrication
But that is with the cheaper mecha. My mecha is this one
And as you see, the sled slides onthe plastic of the gearbox, so no need to handle it sliding on wood
My initial though was to cannibalize a mecha and add a metal slider on that side too. It would just require a bit of filling of the plastic so that it hugs the metal rod. Oh and of course some lubrication
But that is with the cheaper mecha. My mecha is this one
And as you see, the sled slides onthe plastic of the gearbox, so no need to handle it sliding on wood
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